dry start problem

634 Views 12 Replies 6 Participants Last post by The Radius Kid, Oct 26, 2003

steady slamming

Discussion Starter · Oct 23, 2003

changed the bearings the oil pump added a booster plate oil pump is dead on at .002 clearance.still get a slight knock when i start it up for the first time for about 5 seconds,there is a valve in the inside of the pump housing that is on the inside what does that do,not the pressure relefe valve and spring i changed them used the longer white 60lbs spring.ANY HELP PLEASE THANK YOU,BEARINGS ARE AT .002 AS WELL

<small>[ October 22, 2003, 11:37 PM: Message edited by: steady slamming ]</small>

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Steve Wood

· #2 · Oct 23, 2003

by pass valve.

What brand of filter are you using and are you checking to see if the drain back valve in the filter is sealing?

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steady slamming

Discussion Starter · #3 · Oct 23, 2003

STEVE any and all filters have no effect I check them before i put them on to make sure the drain back valve is working 70lbs oil presure cold then10lbs hot in drive AC on at 205 deg.

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steady slamming

Discussion Starter · #4 · Oct 23, 2003

how do you change the bypass valve

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ULYCYC

· #5 · Oct 23, 2003

What brand an PN# filters did you try. If you pressure cuts off at 70# @ startup then I would say the relief valve is OK. If you pinned the gauge and went over 100# then it would be a problem.

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steady slamming

Discussion Starter · #6 · Oct 23, 2003

I have tryed the ac delco pf24,fram ph25,ph11,purolator L20003,I have never had over 70psi to 80psi cold 65psi at the end of the 1/4 mile at 5300 rpm.

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Just a Six??

· #7 · Oct 23, 2003

I have the same problem. Any more info on checking the drain back valve? What would I be looking for if its not working right?
Sorry to jump your thread!!

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ULYCYC

· #8 · Oct 23, 2003

I never had any luck with the PF24 and don't ever use Fram. The Purolator should be good. I use the Purolator L30005. It's a little bigger then the L20033. I assume the L20003 you posted is a typo error. Should be L20033. Make sure you have no oil leaks around the oil filter housing and booster plate.

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steady slamming

Discussion Starter · #9 · Oct 23, 2003

just a six pressurerise the center hole of the filter with a few pounds of air it should hold if it dosnt dont use it .ULYCYC no oil leaks thank god,thanks for your help guys.

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steady slamming

Discussion Starter · #10 · Oct 26, 2003

screw fram,steve I checked the filter before i put it on it was good I went out and took the filter off to check it out before i started the car and the filter was dry.I put the biggie adapter on when i changed the bearings and used the fram filter i thought i still had the same problem thank god i didnt.ULYCYC you are right the part# is listed wrong.Iam trying the K&N oil filter.Thank you all for your help.

<small>[ October 25, 2003, 08:28 PM: Message edited by: steady slamming ]</small>

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salvageV6

· #11 · Oct 26, 2003

Fleetpride has the Baldwin B9 filter for the Biggie Oil Adapter.

Put my first one on this week with Mobil 1 oil and my new turbo.

Anti-drainback works great in that thing better than any Fram and even the Purolator I was using.

I must say the Mobil 1 looks just like fake oil too.

Only a drip or two so far out of my 143K mile rope seal.

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steady slamming

Discussion Starter · #12 · Oct 26, 2003

Salvage thanks for the input on the B9 Ill have to try it out I dont know much about the K&N had one before leak at the seem,I like the Mobil one oil but I have found that I lose about 5LBS of oil pressure hot with it,but no problem with leaks yet knock on wood.

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The Radius Kid

· #13 · Oct 26, 2003

You might want to check into the "micron" rating of those filters you're looking at.
If you're losing hot oil pressure with them,they might be 10 micron.
Too tight IMO.
25-40 is just fine.
Have you tried Hastings yet?
They're pretty good from my experience.
Wix is good too.

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