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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was playing with a RX7 on my way home.. damn nice car.. quick off the line... but I got a TE62 and a stock converter.. so yea.. no low end for me.. i easily caught up with him though..

3rd run i notice my knock gauge going off.. more ...

i hear SQEAKING AND CLACKING... I think i spun a bearing? Iam going to drop the pan tomorrow and take the caps off and see whats up.. i dont think i broke a rod..

heres the problem..

the motor in the car was rebuilt by some weird shop.. FIRST thing i noticed was how they installed the head bolts... THEY REUSED THE FACTORY BOLTS... WTF else did they do!?

according to the receipt i got, this was done 8 years ago.. I dont think i can callt hem up today and expect them to know WTF im talking about..ohwel, abuddy of mine has a engine lift.. i guess I gotta rebult it huh? Im oging to assume the crank will need to be turned and new bearings for the turned crank ...

What will this mean for my being able to "Get on it" ?? I wouldnt want to be running on a weakened crank and then start modding it out just to have it break again..

dam,n im upset.. ideas welcome!
 

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Defender of the Universe
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you should be better than new after the rebuild. There are many opinions on turned cranks...some say don't go more than 10/10 others say that is hogwash...some people will even use a NA crank in a turbo motor...I think the key is keeping the KR to 0. You shouldn't have any trouble if you don't have any knock.
 

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Reusing stock headbolts is a no-no.
Maybe one of the heads lifted and some coolant got in the oil.
I'm sure you've figured out by now,use good fasteners.
As to turning the crank .020" under or less,don't worry about it.
Just get it "magged" .
There's been more than a couple of guys go real fast with cranks that were .020" and even .030" under.
The key is how much "fatigue" the crank has in it,meaning has it had a rough life or has it seen relatively sane use.
You may want to get it heat treated as well if you have any doubts.
 

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Resident Idiot
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Was it a little red RX-7 from Orlando? If so I have a good explaination of why you got beat! :)

Kidding aside... Do the normal things like check converter bolts before you freak out.

Have you notices a change in oil pressure?
Hows the coolant look?
What about the oil level?

You can rule out the transmission making the noise by removing the TC bolts and running the engine.

Hope for the best and keep it simple on the rebuild if it's needed...

Let us know! powersix
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well now, i DID have the TC bolt problem with my '84.. but my dumbass got the wrong bolts.. .. oil PSI seemed ok.. i couldnt really tell..i dint light my gauges and there wer eno int. lights..i will start it up quickly today and see the PSI.

about the head bolts... i already replaced the head gaskets.. SOO i got nice arp boolts.. they can be reused right?! and willi need new HG's? these fel pros are only a month old!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i started the car and let it run for 4 seconds.. oil psi went uop to about 50-60..

is it possible to remove the crank without taking the motor out? i know a guy with a good std crank i think.. hmmm :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
damn, am i the only one up at 10:30 on sunday?ohwel, oil level looked fine.

The car always had a weird ticking noise that increased with rpm and even though it has an exhaust leak, i know that wasnt it.. i think that all things being weighed.. the noise was probably the bearing(s) that was ready to go.. mind you i had to drive home about a mile like this... =/
 

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See if you can isolate the sound to the bottom or top of the motor. Also a bad bearing will sound heavier and more solid than a lifter or rocker. Try pulling the plug wires one at a time (wear gloves wink ) and see if the sound goes away when you remove a certain wire.

Do not assume anything until you look at the bearings yourself. Are you sure you didnt get coolant in the oil when you did the headgasket change?
 
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