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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With the motor out of the car, what's the best way to check crankshaft endplay?
 

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same way as in the car...set up your dial indicator and pry the crank back and forth :)
 

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dare I ask why the engine is out of the car? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Steve Wood said:
dare I ask why the engine is out of the car? :)
You will recall that I'm installing a new cam and Champion heads. Because I ordered the heads at the worst time (read just before nationals), I have been waiting 4 weeks.
What's the best way to move the crank back and forth?
 

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so why does the engine have to be out of the car? :confused:

I use one of those screwdriver handled prybars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Steve Wood said:
so why does the engine have to be out of the car? :confused:

I use one of those screwdriver handled prybars.
Seemed like it would be a lot easier to do the work with the engine out of the car. Took me 4.5 hours to remove engine. When I did Charles's head gaskets, it seemed like it was more work with the engine in the car. Anyway, I should be taking delivery on the heads tomorrow or Wednesday.

I don't have much confidence that this work will cure my false knock, but I was going to do the heads anyway, and you will recall, that we often wondered if the cam was causing the false knock. Besides endplay, can you think of anything else I might check. I mean if it is the engine making noise, it will have to be in the bottom end.
 

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Do you belong to a masochists' club? :D

I guess if spending 4.5 hrs to take an engine out...and something similar to put it in seems easier...why not? :)
 

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End play is easier checked with the pan off. If you are going to pull the pan, I would wait.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
wmsonta said:
End play is easier checked with the pan off. If you are going to pull the pan, I would wait.
Engine is on a stand, disassembled down to short block, with pan off. :)
 

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chrisgarrett46 said:
Engine is on a stand, disassembled down to short block, with pan off. :)
Dial indicator/ prybar as per SW. You can also use a feeler gauge at the thrust bearing.
 

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What WOULD ***** **** DO?

With the engine already on a stand and the pan off I would be tempted to pull the two center caps and a couple of rod bearing caps just for peace of mind. On the mains the wear would be on the bottom caps. For the rods (one at a time) after you remove the bolts/caps (at the bottom of the stroke) then you can push the rods up buy giving the crank a little bit of a turn then back the crank up a little to look at the bearing in the rod. Check mains replace/retorque than rods. PS: if you pull the thrust bearing make sure to tap the crank back and forth a few times with the cap seated and the bolts finger tight {use a piece of "WOOD" between crank and hammer, etc.) before you torque it down, I would also leave a screw driver tapped in somewhere on the crank/block to keep the crank wredged forward when you torque it down.
:6: That way if there is a problem you will catch it while it's easy to fix. :6:
 

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I would also want .020" between the rods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
wmsonta said:
I would also want .020" between the rods.
I have to be honest: I've gotten pretty comfortable working on the top half of the engine, but I am totally ignorant of the bottom end. I would like to do the things that Mr. Brophy and Wmsonta have suggested, but to be honest, I'm really clueless. I am, however, eager to learn.
 

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wmsonta said:
I would also want .020" between the rods.
You ever look at a Buick cranK? :)
 

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That's why I went into detail. :D
 

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Steve Wood said:
You ever look at a Buick cranK? :)
"I've got chevy on my mind" That is a good song. :D
 

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Steve Wood said:
You ever look at a Buick cranK? :)
Yes.

Are you really going to point out, a Buick V6 is a 90* even fire and the rod pins are offset? Like a half a dozen other motors. I own both even and odd. Buick cranks in general? I can go back to nailheads. Buick hi-perforance rods are "Armacast", just like Cad 500, Pontiac 455 S D.

I check the rods on anything with rolled fillets on the journals. Or anything re-ground. Hell check 'em all. 30 sec w/feeler gauge.

For those who think chevy is on my mind. I like Buick 455 pistons w/ aftermarket 6.8" BB chevy rods in a now 529" Caddy. Nothing wrong w/Olds 350 rods (Armacast)in a hyd. sbc. I typically am asked to help on aleast one Pro-Stock pulling truck a season (BB Ford).

Now, go ahead, point out whatever obvious thing I have overlooked.
 

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There is no clearance spec for between the rods on an even fire crank because the rods are separated as per this picture.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/pictureguides/cranks/crankguide.html

There is an rod endplay spec that is a max of .015" :) His engine has nothing to do with the examples you have offered as support of your expertise. Of course, he may enter a pulling contest someday? :D
 

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Steve Wood said:
There is no clearance spec for between the rods on an even fire crank because the rods are separated as per this picture.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/pictureguides/cranks/crankguide.html

There is an rod endplay spec that is a max of .015" :) His engine has nothing to do with the examples you have offered as support of your expertise. Of course, he may enter a pulling contest someday? :D
Hah.

Are standard Buick 231 cranks the same? I have rebuilt a 231, dont remember that.

I knew you would point out something obvious.

Um, Chris, I would check the rod end play. It won't take long. A feeler gauge is all you need. If you have rolled fillets it could be important.
 

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What obvious? That you posted incorrect information? Well, yes...I did. Chris has enough problems without being fed incorrect data. :)
 
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