http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/bodygauges/interiorpage.html
Three articles on boost gauge installation on the above page.
Reference the red wire-only way to really know is to follow it to its destination.
Fuel pumps:
Fuel pump is normally in the tank. In the old days, we used to add an external pump at a convenient place just in front of the fuel tank. Internal pump fed it and it boosted the delivery. Walbro is a major manufacturer of pumps and makes both internal and external pumps-some sold by other vendors under their own name.
The Walbro 307 used to be the popular upgrade. Now most prefer the 340 which has a higher pressure bypass valve and draws less current.
If you crawl under the rear bumper, there should be a three wire connector coming from the top off the fuel tank and connecting to a similar connector coming around the rear of the car on the trunk side of the bumper. Most hot wire kits intersect the factory wiring near this point with a 10-12 gauge wire and perhaps another relay. This addition should be somewhat obvious.
I have always made my own hot wires so I cannot be more specific as I am not aware of the exact set ups of the various hot wire kits.
I think most of them add another wire off the rear of the alternator which runs down the driver's side frame rail to the back. If done correctly, imo, there should be a fuse in this wire just behind the alternator to protect against potential shorts between the alternator and the rear. This wire is the so called "hot wire"
Three articles on boost gauge installation on the above page.
Reference the red wire-only way to really know is to follow it to its destination.
Fuel pumps:
Fuel pump is normally in the tank. In the old days, we used to add an external pump at a convenient place just in front of the fuel tank. Internal pump fed it and it boosted the delivery. Walbro is a major manufacturer of pumps and makes both internal and external pumps-some sold by other vendors under their own name.
The Walbro 307 used to be the popular upgrade. Now most prefer the 340 which has a higher pressure bypass valve and draws less current.
If you crawl under the rear bumper, there should be a three wire connector coming from the top off the fuel tank and connecting to a similar connector coming around the rear of the car on the trunk side of the bumper. Most hot wire kits intersect the factory wiring near this point with a 10-12 gauge wire and perhaps another relay. This addition should be somewhat obvious.
I have always made my own hot wires so I cannot be more specific as I am not aware of the exact set ups of the various hot wire kits.
I think most of them add another wire off the rear of the alternator which runs down the driver's side frame rail to the back. If done correctly, imo, there should be a fuse in this wire just behind the alternator to protect against potential shorts between the alternator and the rear. This wire is the so called "hot wire"
