[Brisbon]

okay guys im just finishing my body off resto and i finished my motor machine work,

parts

.30 overbore poston master rebuild high performance kit with forged pistons
.10 cut crank from the previous owners rebuild
stainless valves with dampened springs and rebuilt heads
cottons 1 1/2 intercooler
turbonetics cpte60 series turbo
walbro 340 pump? lol i forget already wow
65 injectors
rjc plenium and power plate and throttle body, 70mm
cottons billet mains line bored to block
and a gn110t cam from postons rebuild kit
ck performance stage 2 2004r tranny
tubular suspension adjustable by sphon
air lift rear bags
rebuilt gm 8.5" posi rear end complete
hotchkis springs and rear anti sway bar with full suspension, red poly bushings
beefed up steel driveshaft
and bilstein shocks
sliced rear stock wheels to 10.5 inch wide with mickey dot slicks

forgive me if i forget anything, its been a process...

so my question is for this combo deal what converter should i be looking at for occasional racing and weekend driving possibly daily driving?

 

[Doc1of7]

so my question is for this combo deal what converter should i be looking at for occasional racing and weekend driving possibly daily driving?

Yank, and get the kevlar TCC.

The best way to figure out what converter matches your driving style is trying to test drive as many cars with different converters as you can..

 

[Brisbon]

Yank, and get the kevlar TCC.

The best way to figure out what converter matches your driving style is trying to test drive as many cars with different converters as you can..

yank what ,and whats a TCC?

 

[JDSfastGN]

yank what ,and whats a TCC?

i would probably go with around a 3200 if the cpte60 is similar to the TE60. TCC stands for the torque converter clutch. I'm also a fan of protorque 10.5" converters and I also liked my old 3200 9/11 from PTS. Other considerations are Vigilantes and Pats converters as well.

 

[northerngn]

i absolutly love my ART CARR
see sig
3500 stall non lu if i shift at 5500 it only drops to around 4200 so the car pulls and pulls
normal driving is just fine and 70mph with stock running gear and 275 50 15 nittos puts me around 2200 rpm and anywere from 2500 to 3000 to climb a hill but always comes back to 2200
really woke up my car being i had a TE45a and a stock stall
or to put it another way...
i went from having traction to having traction issues..hehehe :headbang:
if ya get where im going :yup:
-dan

 

[Brisbon]

why do you have a non lock up ? can someone explain the benefits and downfalls of having a lu to a non lu?

and what did you pay for it? art carr quoted me $699 for a lu 3400 billet :crazy:

i absolutly love my ART CARR
see sig
3500 stall non lu if i shift at 5500 it only drops to around 4200 so the car pulls and pulls
normal driving is just fine and 70mph with stock running gear and 275 50 15 nittos puts me around 2200 rpm and anywere from 2500 to 3000 to climb a hill but always comes back to 2200
really woke up my car being i had a TE45a and a stock stall
or to put it another way...
i went from having traction to having traction issues..hehehe :headbang:
if ya get where im going :yup:
-dan

 

[chargedtt]

The precision industries vigilante 9.5 3200 stall lockup..This converter has been proven great thru out the years, :yup:

 

[JDSfastGN]

why do you have a non lock up ? can someone explain the benefits and downfalls of having a lu to a non lu?

and what did you pay for it? art carr quoted me $699 for a lu 3400 billet :crazy:

Lockups are more of a race car application rather than a street cruiser. Lockups are slightly more efficient when both are unlocked. As well as being lighter in most cases. A lockup unit will still act as a stock converter on the highway cruising thus keeping the same gas mileage. You can also lock up most aftermarket l/u converters for 100% efficiency through the converter at WOT (usually good for 2 mph and .2 ET depending on the cars power etc..). If its a street car i would stick with a l/u unit. $700 sounds close to what you will end up paying for a good converter. It seems in most cases with converters that what you pay is what you will get.

 

[northerngn]

Lockups are more of a race car application rather than a street cruiser. Lockups are slightly more efficient when both are unlocked. As well as being lighter in most cases. A lockup unit will still act as a stock converter on the highway cruising thus keeping the same gas mileage. You can also lock up most aftermarket l/u converters for 100% efficiency through the converter at WOT (usually good for 2 mph and .2 ET depending on the cars power etc..). If its a street car i would stick with a l/u unit. $700 sounds close to what you will end up paying for a good converter. It seems in most cases with converters that what you pay is what you will get.

yup cant spend too much money on a convertor
get a cheap one, have it take a crap, then need a convertor and trans rebuild if shavings are made (ish) :crazy:
my 9 in lu is prob a good 10lbs lighter than a stocker,(weight off the crank = u know what)
plus mine IS a street car
usually cruise it about 100 miles on a cruise night...
no problem with heat if a good cooler is used
ill say this much, ive made a believer out of 100%of the people that have rode in my car and yes, i did pay around 700 for it
:dunno:
do what u like but this is my 2cents
-dan

 

[The Radius Kid]

Yank, and get the kevlar TCC.

The best way to figure out what converter matches your driving style is trying to test drive as many cars with different converters as you can..

Eeyup.
Nice stuff.
They have a banner here too.

 

[JDSfastGN]

non-Lockups are more of a race car application rather than a street cruiser. Non-Lockups are slightly more efficient when both are unlocked. As well as being lighter in most cases. A lockup unit will still act as a stock converter on the highway cruising thus keeping the same gas mileage. You can also lock up most aftermarket l/u converters for 100% efficiency through the converter at WOT (usually good for 2 mph and .2 ET depending on the cars power etc..). If its a street car i would stick with a l/u unit. $700 sounds close to what you will end up paying for a good converter. It seems in most cases with converters that what you pay is what you will get.

Edited: i had lockup listed for all the converter choices, it must have been late :dunno:

 

[northerngn]

thass cool
i got where you were going

one a side note, like a told a guy today at a car show i was at when talking about gn mods and in the case of this thread convertors.
...i didn't buy this car for fuel economy.. :headbang: :6:
-dan