When replacing the cast iron combination valve, with the brass valve, tell this DIY "Greenhorn" what amount of brake bleeding might be required-and, give the specific steps, in the proceedure? NOTE: My 87' TR, has only a true 8,000 actual miles on it-but, I thought that I might be wise to replace the valve, with the correct brass one-before trouble developes with getting air in the lines! Please try to speak English-instead of in "Greek"(HA! HA!)! Thankyou
Combination valve replace & Brake Bleeding required?
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I would probably try the simplest way first which is to open all the bleeders and let them all drip until clean fluid comes out...just don't let the reservoir run dry....
As Salvage says, all four will have to be bled as they will each have an air bubble in the lines.
As Salvage says, all four will have to be bled as they will each have an air bubble in the lines.
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Do you bleed these things with the key on and the Powermaster motor running or just do it the old fashion way?
Joe
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1986 Grand National
TA-49, 009's, Hooker cat back, and all the other usual stuff
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Joe
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1986 Grand National
TA-49, 009's, Hooker cat back, and all the other usual stuff
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43,745 Posts
key off
My vote in adition, is to install the check valve type bleeders and open them all with hoses into some containers. I also recommend Castrol Dot4 LMA Brake fluid. Higher boiling point and less affinity to absorb moisture from the air. Also gives a firmer brake pedal. Gene
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Someone noted that the instructions on the gnttype.org say with the key on.
The shop manual says to bleed the master cylinder with no power assist which I take to mean, key off. It does not specifically address bleeding wheel cylinders with a PM>
All my cars have been converted to vacuum, but I normally gravity bleed the brakes because it does not introduce air into the system, potentially, when pumping the pedal.
I just open all the bleeders and drip them into a bottle until I have clean fluid and then shut them off.
I have been using the synthetic or maybe, semi-sythentic Valvoline fluid lately. I used to always use the Castrol which is excellent.
[This message has been edited by Steve Wood (edited December 12, 2001).]
The shop manual says to bleed the master cylinder with no power assist which I take to mean, key off. It does not specifically address bleeding wheel cylinders with a PM>
All my cars have been converted to vacuum, but I normally gravity bleed the brakes because it does not introduce air into the system, potentially, when pumping the pedal.
I just open all the bleeders and drip them into a bottle until I have clean fluid and then shut them off.
I have been using the synthetic or maybe, semi-sythentic Valvoline fluid lately. I used to always use the Castrol which is excellent.
[This message has been edited by Steve Wood (edited December 12, 2001).]
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how bout
#25509419 ?
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Steve Wood
Growing old is mandatory; growing up is optional.
86 GN bought new, 87 T-type-81 El Camino with GN drive train-basically stock 86, 94 Caprice 9C1, 69 SS396 Camaro Convertible
#25509419 ?
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Steve Wood
Growing old is mandatory; growing up is optional.
86 GN bought new, 87 T-type-81 El Camino with GN drive train-basically stock 86, 94 Caprice 9C1, 69 SS396 Camaro Convertible
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43,745 Posts
More likely to go to Bristol again.
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Is there any problems associated with or special steps needed to changeover to either Castrol DOT4 LMA Brake Fluid(That ILBCNU6 is using)-or the Valvoline Synthetic-or, Semi-Synthetic brake fluid(That Steve Wood is using)?
STEVE: Is the Valvoline Synthetic or Semi-Synthetic brake fluid Dot3 or Dot4 rated? Mikal
[This message has been edited by TEEDOFF (edited December 14, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by TEEDOFF (edited December 14, 2001).]
STEVE: Is the Valvoline Synthetic or Semi-Synthetic brake fluid Dot3 or Dot4 rated? Mikal
[This message has been edited by TEEDOFF (edited December 14, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by TEEDOFF (edited December 14, 2001).]
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I think it is three....got a bottle out in the garage...I think.
No problem...I would run it thru until it came out clear at the cylinders just to get the old, water contaminated fluid out so the car will stop better with less fade. The compatibility is fine.
No problem...I would run it thru until it came out clear at the cylinders just to get the old, water contaminated fluid out so the car will stop better with less fade. The compatibility is fine.
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