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Hey guy's I'll try to make this quick and complete as possible.
Yesterday morning I started the car and the belt started making all kinds of noise,it was cold out and thought nothing of it.
I drove the Car about 30 miles to Toady's house with the heater cranked,lights and stereo on.
I shut the car off BSed a while,then tried to start it to show a idling problem to Rhett.Well car wouldn't start Battery was dead,we jumped it and checked the battery volts with my OTC and I only had 10 volts.
So I figured My recently rebuilt altenater had failed,but no volt light came on?
Anyway after a major ordeal BFH style I got the car home(thanks to Rhett).
I did a search on this particular problem and learned that the volt light needs to be good for the system to work,tested light and it was good,tested for continuity in the socket it showed .236 and I only got a short tone.At the brown wire on the alt I have 12 volts key on engine off.But I'm not getting anypower to the volt socket at all.I read a post where I believe it was Turbo1dr who cut off the diode on the back of the socket and everything returned to normal.I tested for continuity at both sides of the diode also with the same results .236 and a short tone.
I really don't want to cut the diode off because I'm sure it's there for a reason,so is it the altenater?Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks guy's
Bill Chapman

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87 GN 3"ATR DP 2.5 ATR duals,7th injector,rebuilt turbo(stock)rebuilt injectors(stock).30 JE Pistons,accufab regulator,ATR super pump Hot wired,stainless driver side exhaust manifold.SOME ASSEMBLY STILL REQUIRED
 

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Do you have 12 volts on the brown wire with it disconnected from the alternator and the key in the on position?

If you do the voltage comes from the volts socket.

You can ground the brown wire key on and the volts light should come on. Use a 2-5 amp. fused jumper for the ground wire. Not a direct short.

Finally use the test hole in the alternator with a small screwdriver and ground the side of the screwdriver to the case and push it in until it hits the contact area. This is with the connector put back into the alternator. If it lights replace the regulator inside the alternator. If it doesn't light it;s the alternator, brushes, slip ring or windings.
 
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