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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got the heads, intake, timing chain and oil pump replacement finished.

First let me say that I bolted the Three ground wires on the back side of the passenger cylinder head, is there anymore grounds that I'm missing? on on the front of the motor?

Did the cam sensor procedure with my sensor tester and the light indication came on with the wires pointed directly at the passenger side of the car, I started with them pointing at the drivers side. I had to turn the cam sensor 180 degrees to get a light on the tester. So after that happend I unplugged the cam sensor and just tried to start the car without the cam sensor plugged in, eliminate problems. I think I did somthing wrong there.

Crank sensor, did the crank sensor test procedure and jumped B&C on the crank sensor plug repeatedly and all the raw fuel in the exaust exploded, and I banged my head on the raidiator support because it scared the crap out of me, now I have a head ache so I called it a night.

And yes, I drove it in the garage so I figure it should drive out. Its hard to believe that I would need a crank sensor and or module.

Joe

Any Ideas
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Had a memory flash, went back outside and hooked up the ground on the front of the cylinder head, passenger side, still no start.

Joe
 

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Once again:

If it has no spark at the plugs but, has injector pulses, it is often the module

If it has spark, but does not have injector pulses, It is probably the cam sensor or ECM.

If it has no spark or injector pulses, It is probably the crank sensor or the module.

Go down to the parts store and buy a noid lite for about $8.00. You pull a connector off an injector and plug the noid light into the fuel injector harness connector you pulled off. If it blinks when you crank the car, then you know you have injector pulses.


Now...assuming you have fuel pressure at the rail, if the above all check out, then you may have to go back to the cam sensor. You have to be sure the car is on top dead center when you start the installation. Even if you put it in 180 out, it will normally try to run.

the car will never start or fire if the cam sensor is unplugged.



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Is your cam sensor still unplugged?Plug it back in and try to start the car.It wont start without it,once started you can unplug it and the car will run.Also did you connect the black ground wire to the fire wall,almost dead center on the firewall,that is the ECM ground.
 

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here is an ol' fart's method of installing the cam sensor.


you move the crank to 25* ATDC on the compression stroke, THEN install the cam sensor. DO NOT install at TDC, and then rotate to 25*ATDC.. you will be 25* off as the sensor gear meshes w/ the cam at that point and turning the cap only makes a mess!!

Bring the engine to TDC on the compression stroke.. BOTH valves on #1 closed. Continue to rotate to 25* ATDC.
Look at the cam sensor gear. there's a dot on it near the bottom. Install the sensor w/ the dot facing the pass. fender and the wires in the cap are pointing towards the dr headlite. Once the gear meshes w/ the cam gear, you should be close to the sensor bottoming in the cover.[ A little "sneaky cream on the o'ring helps!!] If it's still up a bit and the gears are meshed,[you can't turn the sensor shaft], it's OK to bump the engine a bit to get the oil pump shaft to mesh into the bottom of the sensor gear.Once this is done, put the cap on, and hook up the indicator lite. Turn the sensor CLOCKWISE until the lite goes out, turn it COUNTER CLOCK until it just lites. I then continue CCW about 1/8 to 1/4" and lock it down. [Lite should still be on]

HTH,


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Chuck Leeper



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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Didnt get to the cam sensor, I was hoping to get the car started first then set it, I know for sure its way out of wack, car should still start with it pluged in.

What I do know is I have fuel, I can smell it and it exploded when I simulated the crank sensor with the jumper wire, whether that means the injectors are pulsing or not, I'm not sure, I'll get a noid light on the way home. And another thing, I got spark when I simulated the crank sensor, because it exploded.

I guess, I'll get a crank sensor at the parts store on the way home.

Joe
 

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, I was hoping to get the car started first then set it
Set the cam sensor properly and then leave it alone. No sense in troubleshooting coil packs and crank sensors when the cam sensor isn't even set up. Make sure when you set it you are on the compression stroke of #1. If not it will be set 180º out. The car isn't going to run right or start correctly (in a timly fashion) with the cam sensor out of whack! poon
 

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What Mike said..that's almost certainly your only problem, whether you still have it unplugged or if it's just not set correctly, the motor will not start.

Just a note: it doesn't matter where the cap's wires end up pointing. As Steve said, that's determined when you first insert the cam sensor but the car doesn't know or care as long as the sensor's set correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Man stuff works great when you do it correctly, you guys are a great help, thank you again.

set the boost at 13# just for the evening before I give it an oil change tomarow.
Car pulls as hard at 13# as it did with 18# before, simpilly amaizing. I guess cleaning up the intake and plenum help too :D

I'll see if I can break into the 11.50's with a 49 yup powersix

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The heads have stainless 1.77 1.50 valves with a three angle valve job. The Intake I opened up the runners a bit and port mached them to the intake gasket as well as went at the whole intake with the sandpaper rolls on the die grinder and smoothed out all the castings to a smooth surface. I did the same thing on the plenum.
My exaust ports on the heads were larger than the headers so I opend up the headers just a tweak with the carbide bit.
Other than that it still leaks oil out of who knows where and the 16 year old radiator has had it so thats going to need to be boiled and recored, all in all worked out ok.

Joe
 
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