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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been taking my 87GN to the track and can't seem to get some good 60ft,so thought about going to a 3500 from a 3000 stall. called poston's and Rick suggested I check it first with a quick foot brake, and see where the tires start to break loose.2400-2500 rpm. don't reach 3000,so my ? is how or what do I do to get the stall out of my converter.and get my 60ft down.
 

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Vacuum brakes or PM? Vacuum brakes won't provide a whole lot of holding power without the soft shoes and S10 cylinders. If you don't have enough brake to build boost your 60' will suffer horribly.
 

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If you can't hold the power at the line, it's a good place to start. Depending on your power level, a 3k stall can stall higher or lower, what's the rest of your combo?
 

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Also your tune can effect your spool greatly. List more detail of your setup and tune at the track and street.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok-I have a TE60,50lb inj,cc 206-212,pp heads,smc,V4,3g stall and shift kit,air bags,boxed lc arms. i run TTchip which i haven't figuerd out yet. the 1-2 shift is set at 128 and 3-4 at 127.with it set at this point my mph is 106 in the quarter with 25lbs of boost,don't know if i need to go up or down with the chip. tune is same at track as in street. I have noticed that when I run 101oct with alky it spools slower than 91oct and alky,turn on point is 13lbs of boost and pump speed is 5. i know there is alot left with my combo,just need help to tune it and get all the power in it.
 

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If we ignore the obvious that the converter does not stall to specs on your combo and may have to be restalled...

You might try adjusting the handbrake to spec and then pulling it on when doing the stall. That will usually add some power to the braking.

How many pounds of boost are you making when it gets to 2500 rpm?
 

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As stated check stall on the ebrake......it should go right to the rated stall and build boost like a mother. Just don't hold it there to long......it'll build heat real quick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok-Mr.Wood , it differes,sometimes 13lbs and sometimes it seems to struggle to get 7lbs.let say that on the way to work and getting on the on ramp it'll shoot to 20-or above quick :D on other times -braking and building boost 10lbs get to 13lbs and it breaks loose. nocooler, i'll try that ,it does have an oil cooler in front of radiator to help with heat build up.ulyclyc mentioned the tune,did he mean if to rich while staging,cause o2s are in the upper 800s right before launching.
 

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I meant how many pounds of boost does it make when you stand on the brakes and mash the gas pedal to the floor. :) and to follow up...is 2500 rpm the max rpm it reaches when you do this?

Repeat using the handbrake as well as the footbrake and give us the same info.

And, yes, if the mix is too rich, it will kill the spool up.
 

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be sure to do it without the ebrake as well so we have direct comparisons
 

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Based upon what you have stated thus far, I would not be surprised to find that your converter is a bit tight. On the other hand, I don't think that is your immediate problem.

If your o2s are in the upper 800s when you are spooling, the engine will not make much power, and, the turbo will make additional boost slowly when you launch. This will kill you off the line.

I suggest you learn how to manipulate the chip so that the 02s are in the low 800s...say 800-820...at launch. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well did the above tests,same results, only to find out I had it all wrong. i FORGOT TO MENTION that I use a bleeder valve to control boost,which I had hooked up wrong. on the outlet of the valve i had a hose hooked back to the W/S{wrong} :eek!: {took forever to build boost} so after I disconnected the outlet hose and re-tested :yup: it no longer takes all day to spool. :rant: dumbass :D Steve you were right, if I had it hooked up wrong it would cause it to richen up on launch as it would give more fuel than boost, and it did kill me of the line. :mad:
 

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Hey, that is the cheap kind of problem. I will take those all day long! :usa:
 
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