Burnout problems

1184 Views 21 Replies 14 Participants Last post by 77tech9, Aug 2, 2003

shaunchrisc

Discussion Starter · Sep 23, 2002

I was at the track again on friday and I cannot get this launch down. I think my main problem is the burnout. Basically, I can't burnout. With anywhere between 16 and 20psi in the Nittos, I cannot spin them. I have been trying to burout in the front of the water box which I drove around and then back into place. The tires will barely spin(my gauge only says 5mph). Then I let the brake go a little and I start going forward and get a ton of wheel hop. So now I am tempted to go through the water box or buying a linelock. Someone please enlighten me on the proper technique. TIA

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1987 GN 14" K&N, Accel yellow tops, adj. wastegate, adj. FPR, XP Armstrong hotwired, 160*-stat, Hooker 2.5" catback exaust, Thrasher chips, shift kit, trans cooler, vdo boost/oil/temp guages, scanmaster v2.1, Kirban's front/rear frame braces, Hotchkis lower control arms, variable rate rear springs, GNX wanna-be rims, and the rest is stock as far as I can tell...or too meaningless to list.

1987 Cavalier Z24 daily driver. 3-chamber flowmaster and 135db worth of stereo.

Shaun

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

forzfed

· #2 · Sep 23, 2002

That's a tuff one! It almost sounds like you have the bigger brake cylinders in the back. You should be able to light them up or try feathering the brakes until you start smokin them.

TurboDave

· #3 · Sep 23, 2002

Need to get 'em wet to start the burnout. That's the reason for the water box. And unless you've got a line lock, you're only going to heat up the rear drums getting the burnout started. This will drastically reduce the rear's holding power, and subsequently reduce your ability to build boost on the line!!!!

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TurboDave mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
TurboD Racing
Lone Rock, WI
86 GN[email protected](MM/MAF Xlator/Extender,MM BstC Boost Command,THDP,PTE44,CAS V2FM,MSD50's,9.5"vigilante 3500)
87 GN [email protected](Stock)
84 Z28 L69
01 Excursion LTD TTS"race" chip 7.3L PSD(power stroke diesel) Turbo 4X2
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Steve Wood

· #4 · Sep 23, 2002

Maybe you need to back a little further into the water?

salvageV6

· #5 · Sep 24, 2002

Don't feel bad Shaun I have the exact same problem. I always hated doing them on the street do to watching $$$ burn up in good rubber. Also never liked to powerbrake a car either.

My car does exactly what yours does with the lurching and wheel hop.

I have always read to avoid the water on drag radials guess now you are supposed to get them wet.

I did get a 1.89 out of them with a crappy burnout however.

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shaunchrisc

Discussion Starter · #6 · Sep 24, 2002

Originally posted by TurboDave:
Need to get 'em wet to start the burnout. That's the reason for the water box. And unless you've got a line lock, you're only going to heat up the rear drums getting the burnout started. This will drastically reduce the rear's holding power, and subsequently reduce your ability to build boost on the line!!!!

True, I am having a problem building boost afterwards too.

The silly thing is that two weeks ago, I had the same problem, but on the video, you can clearly see me smoking the nittos on launch. It's almost like the track is stickier in front of the water box than it is at the starting line.

I want to try the water box next time, but I don't want to make things worse by draging water into the starting line.

The Radius Kid

· #7 · Sep 24, 2002

The point about feathering the brakes sounds like it might be right.I usually do it this way:
Plant your foot on the brakes.
Hit the gas to start building boost.
Once you hit about 3-4#'s of boost,start releasing the brakes slightly and the rear wheels should begin to start turning.Just be sure you're not rolling out and keep pushing the gas harder.The car should be able to boil the hides off the rims.
That has always worked for me.
It's a different technique than staging as far as the brakes are concerned.

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Give em' hell!

salvageV6

· #8 · Sep 24, 2002

I roll out and hop.

Burnout loser I guess.

Maybe it's the snubber?

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The Radius Kid

· #9 · Sep 24, 2002

Sorry,this is a family oriented board.Please keep comments about your snubber to yourself.

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Give em' hell!

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TWIN86GNS

· #10 · Sep 24, 2002

Best way I have found to do a burnout with street tires is to back onto the concrete where it is wet and spin the tires a couple of rotations. I then pull forward (still on the concrete)and do my burn out. No water is dragged to the line and no problems doing my burnouts.

Good luck,

Paul Beal
[email protected]

Bullfrog

· #11 · Oct 3, 2002

A little late but here's the technique: set the brakes, build some boost, gradually release the brakes, the rears will spin while the fronts hold then after the wheels are spinning fully release the brakes. You don't have to build much boost to spin them in the water.

Bullfrog

· #12 · Oct 4, 2002

Another thing - if you have wheel hop problems install the boxed-in lower control arms with poly bushings.

turbo-six

· #13 · Oct 4, 2002

Line Lock is the way to go.. Not that expensive and an easy install on the turbo regals.. I can smoke my 28x10.5x15 ET Slicks with no problem... I have the TCI Roll Stop

shaunchrisc

Discussion Starter · #14 · Oct 4, 2002

Originally posted by Bullfrog:
Another thing - if you have wheel hop problems install the boxed-in lower control arms with poly bushings.

Have some

Would hurt any if I just drive straight through the water box? I am just worried that if I back into it, I may get too excited and leave it in reverse or something when I burnout.

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forzfed

· #15 · Oct 4, 2002

It's better to burnout then fade away!

Mr. T

· #16 · Oct 5, 2002

Funny you should say that shaun, my first time at the track on my second pass, I forgot and did a burnout in REVERSE! After the burnout, I eased off the break to pull up, and realized I was in reverse! All I can say is embarrassing!

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'87 T .030 overbore/ 240 cam/ heads port/ polish/ all 3in. pipes (exh and int)inc. MAF/ j&e pistons/ 42.5lb inj. +7th inj./ TE44/ Precision Frontmount/ houston DP/ METCO lower control arms/ and alot of other stuff I didn't think of /11.5in M/T's/ @ 21.5psi best ET ??.?? @ ???.??

salvageV6

· #17 · Oct 5, 2002

First time at the track I tried to stage 15ft. in front of the beams.

Woulda been embarassing but I killed the turbo diesel truck I was racing.

.504 reaction time too I was psyched.

Fortunately I couldn't see or hear the people laughing while staging, since you are sensory deprived with the winders shut and the helmet on.

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d0n_3d

· #18 · Oct 9, 2002

hehe a few months ago i happened to do a burnout in reverse on accident...i smoked them VERY well in reverse too...i bet the people in the crowd were in awe that my car had so much power if i could smoke them in reverse like that...hahaha! i felt stupid after i realized i had did it...i calmly put it in D like i meant to do it

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77tech9

· #19 · Aug 1, 2003

I always see these movies of Grand Nationals doing burnouts and when I first got mine I could spin them while switching into different gears but not when I tryed at a standstill.
I was kinda worried, but it just takes practice to get the boost up.

GNonice

· #20 · Aug 1, 2003

Years ago, I pulled into the lights after burn out with 69 chebby, Had the shifter in ,,,,,3rd, rev'd it up dropped the clutch,,,,,,all over the place. Doh!!!!! Live and learn.

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