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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well the heat WAS working. it works and it dosnt work. we threw a OTC on there and the coolent isnt getting any hoter then 74* i'm thinking maybe the stat is shot? anyone?

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Rob
87 GN fully loaded with 85k :(
TA49
Ultra Flow exhaust
Cold air induction
3" DP
T-Link comming soon hopefuly
shooting for low 13's high 12's


i'm smarter then zap!! :)
better looking the zap
and have a better sence of humor then swood.
but, damn i'm good!
 

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Yes that would do it" esp as cold as it is" Thats what mine did" found the thermo broke into & wide open! If i was you i would use a 180 for the winter mo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
would a 180 hurt anything?

------------------
Rob
87 GN fully loaded with 85k :(
TA49
Ultra Flow exhaust
Cold air induction
3" DP
T-Link comming soon hopefuly
shooting for low 13's high 12's


i'm smarter then zap!! :)
better looking the zap
and have a better sence of humor then swood.
but, damn i'm good!
 

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Fuhgeddaboudit
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180deg won't hurt but you should change to an 160deg in the spring. If you are too lazy just put the 160deg in now.

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ED BAKER
87-T-TYPE, PT54,MSD50's,Crane Billet Roller,JE forged20over,P&P Heads,Manley valves,Hemco 65mm& Acu65TB,V2 FM, P.I.9.5 -7disc,Jimmys Trans, new times soon.
93 PARK AVE"SUPERCHARGED"
67RS/SS350 CAMARO
mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
http://www.modernmusclecar.net
 

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Fuhgeddaboudit
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74deg don't sound right!! Either your meter is no good or coolant sensor is bad. Even with no thermostat it sould get up to 130-140deg after 15 minutes of running at idle.

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ED BAKER
87-T-TYPE, PT54,MSD50's,Crane Billet Roller,JE forged20over,P&P Heads,Manley valves,Hemco 65mm& Acu65TB,V2 FM, P.I.9.5 -7disc,Jimmys Trans, new times soon.
93 PARK AVE"SUPERCHARGED"
67RS/SS350 CAMARO
mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
http://www.modernmusclecar.net
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the meeter is fine. the stat is gonna get done monday when i got time. ed what do you mean change the spring?


------------------
Rob
87 GN fully loaded with 85k :(
TA49
Ultra Flow exhaust
Cold air induction
3" DP
T-Link comming soon hopefuly
shooting for low 13's high 12's


i'm smarter then zap!! :)
better looking the zap
and have a better sence of humor then swood.
but, damn i'm good!
 

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So easy cavemen can do it
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534 Posts
he means change into a 180 degree thermostat for the winter (if you indeed drive it everyday in the winter like I am currently doing) and then change back to a 160 degree thermostat for the spring and summer because a cooler thermostat will give you a little less heat for the car...I am going through the same situation as this, I currently have the 180 in right now for the winter and going back to the 160 in spring so the car runs cooler and less knocking occurs.

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http://www.angelfire.com/in4/d0n_3d/

1987 Buick Grand National (owner since 1997) - 80,000 miles, everyday driver (rain, sleet, hail, snow, its seen it all) engine never opened up, basic bolt on upgrades include:

Cold-air induction w/ 9" K&N air filter behind headlights, Accufab adj. fuel regulator (set at 45 psi), Walbro GSS 307 fuel pump w/ Casper's hotwire upgrade kit, adj. wastegate actuator (set at 17 lbs), 160 degree thermostat, tb coolant lines blocked, 3" Poston's DP w/ 2.5" Hooker exhaust & AeroChamber mufflers, 3" hi-flow CAT, basic chrome engine dressup items, stock rims on BF Goodrich P255/60/R15 all-weather rear tires, newer paint, 30lb VDO boost gauge and 100psi fuel gauge

first track times ever this spring:)

Note to all Ford/Import owners: BUICK OWNZ J00;)
 

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Originally posted by firebird_1252:
would a 180 hurt anything?

Thats what it had in it from the fact. It will get you a little warmer than a 160.
180 = toastey warm" everyday driver ex choise. GF wont complain. "Im cold!
160 = luke warm" GF will complain!
 

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Originally posted by fast86:
Thats what it had in it from the fact. It will get you a little warmer than a 160.
180 = toastey warm" everyday driver ex choise. GF wont complain. "Im cold!
160 = luke warm" GF will complain!


I told my wife the Front mount and converter was needed for more heat




------------------
ED BAKER
87-T-TYPE, PT54,MSD50's,Crane Billet Roller,JE forged20over,P&P Heads,Manley valves,Hemco 65mm& Acu65TB,V2 FM, P.I.9.5 -7disc,Jimmys Trans, new times soon.
93 PARK AVE"SUPERCHARGED"
67RS/SS350 CAMARO
mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
http://www.modernmusclecar.net
 

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If you guys can't keep your girlfriends warm in a TR, send 'em over to me.


 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
then the 180 it is! well i'll buy both see what happens
thanks guys

------------------
Rob
87 GN fully loaded with 85k :(
TA49
Ultra Flow exhaust
Cold air induction
3" DP
T-Link comming soon hopefuly
shooting for low 13's high 12's


i'm smarter then zap!! :)
better looking the zap
and have a better sence of humor then swood.
but, damn i'm good!
 

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Originally posted by ULYCYC:
Originally posted by fast86:
Thats what it had in it from the fact. It will get you a little warmer than a 160.
180 = toastey warm" everyday driver ex choise. GF wont complain. "Im cold!
160 = luke warm" GF will complain!


I told my wife the Front mount and converter was needed for more heat


Brilliant Ed,just brilliant!




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Give em' hell!
 

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Methinks that a 160* T-Stat isn't to good for gas mileage in the winter, plus if you have a perf chip like myself (RED93) a rich running cold engine will pop when starting...it is for me.

If I went to the 180*, wouldn't the fan be running all the time with a perf. chip?



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1987 GN: 104,500 miles, 160°T-stat, homemade dual exhaust with Dynomax Super Turbos, Adj.WG, Walbro 340, Adj.FPR, chrome MAF pipe w/12"K&N cone, engine tie-down, SCANMASTER II, 30psi VDO Boost gauge, 235/60/15 DUNLOP GT QUALIFIERS all around, RED's 93 Street Chip. Set at a confident 18 lbs of boost
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thats another resion why i dont want to go with the 180 cause of the fan.

------------------
Rob
87 GN fully loaded with 85k :(
TA49
Ultra Flow exhaust
Cold air induction
3" DP
T-Link comming soon hopefuly
shooting for low 13's high 12's


i'm smarter then zap!! :)
better looking the zap
and have a better sence of humor then swood.
but, damn i'm good!
 

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Resident Idiot
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11,462 Posts
Hmm, someone needs to come up with an in-cab adjustable thermostat. 160-180-250* whatever at the flick of a switch... You know, kind like that electric exhaust dump.....


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Stock Block, Stock Cam, PTE-52, Champion Heads, V4, MSD50's, TH DP, JayJackson 62mm TB, 16position MaxEffort Chip. 3680# with Driver
12.0 @ 116.5mph w/20psi using 17.9* timing

mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
 

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Youse guys are funny...

The thermostat should be the least of your worries in the winter. I get heat greater than ambient in two miles with less than a minute warmup in the driveway. Get over 120 degrees on the scanmaster in about 4 miles or so and toasty warm heat 150-160 degreees within 6 miles.

All with a 160 thermostat all winter every work day. I think ya gots other issues...
 

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My 160 stat is coming out this week. I can't stand the "luke warm" heat any longer. It is mighty cold here in Jersey now and I am wearing my teeth out from chattering them
 

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So easy cavemen can do it
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glad to hear I am not the only one who drives their TR in the cold winter! I have the 180 degree in right now and even THAT is luke warm heat...of course I am having problems with my vent speeds right now but shouldn't my heat be alot warmer? I also have the 160 thermo and I can't wait to see how hot that gets...I am going to go buy myself a daily beater and just drive my GN in spring summer and fall from now on!!! this thing has been through 5 winters and the bottom of the car is getting a little rusty...that's what I get for being 19 and barely any income to afford two cars!!!

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http://www.angelfire.com/in4/d0n_3d/

1987 Buick Grand National (owner since 1997) - 80,000 miles, everyday driver (rain, sleet, hail, snow, its seen it all) engine never opened up, basic bolt on upgrades include:

Cold-air induction w/ 9" K&N air filter behind headlights, Accufab adj. fuel regulator (set at 45 psi), Walbro GSS 307 fuel pump w/ Casper's hotwire upgrade kit, adj. wastegate actuator (set at 17 lbs), 160 degree thermostat, tb coolant lines blocked, 3" Poston's DP w/ 2.5" Hooker exhaust & AeroChamber mufflers, 3" hi-flow CAT, basic chrome engine dressup items, stock rims on BF Goodrich P255/60/R15 all-weather rear tires, newer paint, 30lb VDO boost gauge and 100psi fuel gauge

first track times ever this spring:)

Note to all Ford/Import owners: BUICK OWNZ J00;)
 

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Yeah, some of us don't have the privilege or the space of having an extra car.
I ONLY drive the GN when its clear out...NEVER when its icy or slushy....Out of control fishtailing is best for pick up trucks
...Also the 'performance' tires become rock hard in the COLD weather and have no grip.

I've "parked" the car last winter, and boy oh boy was she ever cranky come spring time.

These aren't the BEST winter cars devised, but should be driven as much as possible.

PS: Heated garages promote rusting...if ya didn't know already.

Don...Ever hear of oil spraying? And I mean the good stuff, like KROWN rustproofing. It's worked for my car and it's hard to believe it's 14 years old.

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1987 GN: 104,500 miles, 160°T-stat, homemade dual exhaust with Dynomax Super Turbos, Adj.WG, Walbro 340, Adj.FPR, chrome MAF pipe w/12"K&N cone, engine tie-down, SCANMASTER II, 30psi VDO Boost gauge, 235/60/15 DUNLOP GT QUALIFIERS all around, RED's 93 Street Chip. Set at a confident 18 lbs of boost

[This message has been edited by Tomas Del Maar (edited December 31, 2001).]
 

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So easy cavemen can do it
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yeah I've heard of people doing that...my friend's dad sprayed rhyno liner stuff on the bottom of his truck and there it is yet to rust (don't ask)...what I did do was spray some wd-40 all along the edges of the doors and hood and everywhere where there are moving parts! the only place my car is rusting is underneath and that includes the front suspension and along the bottom of the frame...also the axles and the rear cover is rusty...most of this is surface rust but some is getting pretty bad...my car is not really meant to be a show car anyways so i am not gonna worry about it...i will drive this GN as long as i can and someday i will get a low mileage one and store that one...right now i have no other cars to drive (working on getting one for next winter) so my GN has to go through winter #5...

i disagree with you on these cars not being good winter cars...i haven't had any real major problems with my car in the winters i have been driving...car has almost always started right up and runs very nice in cold weather (gotta love the sub-zero temps for the turbo!) and you are right about the tires sucking now because of the cold...i have 255's in the rear and they still can't hook even at a medium takeoff...they are all weathers!!! oh well winter shall soon die and it will be racing season again!!!

------------------
http://www.angelfire.com/in4/d0n_3d/

1987 Buick Grand National (owner since 1997) - 80,000 miles, everyday driver (rain, sleet, hail, snow, its seen it all) engine never opened up, basic bolt on upgrades include:

Cold-air induction w/ 9" K&N air filter behind headlights, Accufab adj. fuel regulator (set at 45 psi), Walbro GSS 307 fuel pump w/ Casper's hotwire upgrade kit, adj. wastegate actuator (set at 17 lbs), 160 degree thermostat, tb coolant lines blocked, 3" Poston's DP w/ 2.5" Hooker exhaust & AeroChamber mufflers, 3" hi-flow CAT, basic chrome engine dressup items, stock rims on BF Goodrich P255/60/R15 all-weather rear tires, newer paint, 30lb VDO boost gauge and 100psi fuel gauge

first track times ever this spring:)

Note to all Ford/Import owners: BUICK OWNZ J00;)
 
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