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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I FINALLY put in my VDO boost gauge today ( bought used, 30-0-25), and I'm wondering:

* How do you run the 1/8" tubing so it's a clean install? Right now I've got it coming out under the dash by the e-brake pedal, then up the side of the dash, to an a-pillar pod. It's not too ugly, but I know Steve would laugh if he saw it, so I'd like to see if there's a way to hide it.

* For a light source...Looking at this post http://www.turbobuicks.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/002076.html both Steve and NastyGn talk about plugging directly in to the fuse box. I found the empty port labelled "LPS," but what exactly do I use to plug into this port? And where can I hook up the ground?

* Along those lines, the VDO gauge has little parallel blade connectors for the lights - do I buy slide-on connectors for these? Does it matter which wire goes to which blade?

As always, thanks for your answers and patience.

------------------
Had to leave Hawaii for Oregon, but at least now I have...
"Toady" -- white/blue '86 T-Type, 175k+
Probably the only TR in the NW that still has stock turbo/IC/injectors/DP
 

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Okay, it's real simple. Just stuff the wires and line into the seem directly next to where you ran your wires. If they fall out, a little tape will hold then in there. Ground the guage on the screw in the pillar. Then go to your fuse box and look for a terminal with "ign" displayed on it. This means it will supply power when the ignition is turned on. If you want to get fancy, you can wire into the dimmer...I'm sure someone else will know how to do that. Use a flat blade connecter(crimp) to connect to the terminal in the fuse box. HTH

Oh, to keep anything from poking a hole in my line, I put a section of vaccuum tubing around it near the sharp areas.

[This message has been edited by shaunchrisc (edited June 02, 2002).]
 

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For dimming you want the INST LPS 5A fuse. You want the hot side only when the parking lights are on.

Get a fuse adaptor brass thingy from radio shack that lets you add a terminal to a blade fuse. Just put a quick disconnect female on your wire and plug into that new terminal thingy which is a male 1/4" faston type blade connector.

I'll look for the part # if I can find the catalog.


Only add up to 3 or 4 gauge lights total to this circuit so you don't overload the dimmer system and smoke it.
 

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270-1204 Fuse taps for automotive blade fuses.

When you add your line to this terminal especially if you will be adding more gauge lights to the circuit I would fuse your added line with a 5 ampere inline blade fuse also available at Radio Shack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Guys, thanks for the tips, esp. those part #s, Salvage. I have some extra vac hose I can put on the tubing in the bad neighborhoods. This will prob. be my only add-on gauge, but the in-line fuse idea is noted. No smoking in this car except the tires.


On the downside, I took the car for a spin and the boost gauge is leaking.
Apparently I didn't get enough tubing coming out the end of the ferrule. I may just go with a female NPT to barb connector instead of the compression fitting, since I now have to take it apart anyway and I can get some black 1/8" tubing - it would look nicer than the clear.
http://www.baycorp.com/catalog/pipe_thread_to_barbed.html
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/vdoboostgaugeinstructions.htm

Off to the stores...
 

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The hard plastic line doesn't work well on barbs.

Get a pack of ferrules and try again. Ferrules are cheap and available separately.

I would worry just as much about the wire in the bad neighborhoods as well that is one reason for the fuse. Plastic loom or some electrical tape over the wire 1 or 2 layers in the bad spots will help with abrasion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The hard plastic line doesn't work well on barbs.
LOL. Understood. I was going to use the rubber tubing as a coupler, a la the way the tee is normally spliced.

Plastic loom - yes! Should also help with making it all look nice.
 
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