I bought one from ATR years ago, brass and works well, but somewhat expensive. I put it in the console. You can also use an aquarium air valve. When I bought the car, it had one installed and bolted to the passenger valve cover.
A bleeder valve "bleeds" pressure. It is a controlled leak. A needle valve would be a good choice for a bleeder, because it can be easily adjusted, but any valve can be manually opened can be a bleeder valve.
In other words, a needle valve could be bleeder valve, but the reverse is not necessarily true.
I hate it when people post things that cannot be argued about!
Aquarium valves work....that was the first iteration. But, they are a bit crude on adjustment and they don't stay set always.
I have a neat little block that I got off KB long ago that has a threaded hole in the side. Into this hole, one screws buttons. The buttons have small holes drilled thru them, and one is solid. By placing this in the wastegate solenoid line, or the line going to the Y from the compressor port, one could add boost in either one, or four, # increments to the boost programmed into the chip.
A fixed, but variable, bleeder, if you will.
<small>[ June 04, 2003, 06:07 PM: Message edited by: Steve Wood ]</small>