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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Every 2 days the battery in the 87 Turbo regal I am working on is dead. I have changed the alternator, added the field fix harness, and finally replaced the battery. Even with the brand new battery, after being parked for 2 days the battery is stone dead.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?
 

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check your dimmer switch thats what it was for me.
 

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There is a short some where. Try disconnecting the under hood light and truck light if it has one for a start. How is the boost thing coming?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I will check those items.

No progress on the boost, went to drive the car today and it wouldn't start. I'll post back tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There is no bulb in either the hood courtesy light socket or the trunk socket, so I doubt it is one of those. I turned the dimmer and the twighlight sentinel all the way down, made sure the doors are closed, etc...

Problem still persists, any more idea's?

A short to ground anywhere in the car from a wire that is live all the time would cause this correct?

Could it have something to do with some kind of leveling system on the car?
 

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you have a parasitic drain- go buy a parasitic drain tool- then you hook up a meter- itll tell you what kind of load you have on the battery while the cars off- start pulling fuses- youll beable to find the circuit thats causing the drain
 

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I would-

Undo the pos battery cable. permantly afix a common test light between the pos bat terminal and the pos bat cable. With the key off and the light bright, you have drain. I would first unhook/hook the alt. Then the various solenoids/relays under the hood. Be sure it is key off. Then you can pull/replace the fuses one at a time.

You want the test light to get very dim, not go out. There will be a small power requirement even when everything is right.
 

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My $.02...

Dicscon the + cable, and put the VOM in the circuit, set on milliamps. With the dome lites, and all other lighting off, read the meter. Should be 30MA, or less. Pull fuses, one at a time, and see when the load goes to minimum.

Place to look first: The radio, cigar liter, console wires... Frequently the cause. :sw:
 

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Old Buzzard said:
Place to look first: The radio, cigar liter, console wires... Frequently the cause. :sw:
Radio :yup: , that's what it was for me when I had the same exact problem.
 

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Why do people always spend a bunch of money, and, then, come ask what to do? :dunno:
 

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are you running an amp...my relay went bad and amp would stay on
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Steve Wood said:
Why do people always spend a bunch of money, and, then, come ask what to do? :dunno:
*sigh*

Why do people always make assumptions about people they don't know.

Steve, I respect your opinion, and even more I respect your knowledge. However, insinuating that I would do something as stupid as buying parts and throwing them at a problem, hoping to solve the issue purely by attrition is insulting to me. Especially when 2 minutes of research on your part (an advanced search for threads started by 'neat' would of been a great way to quantify my idiocy before you insulted me) would of shown that replacing the alternator, and installing the field fix harness was a separate issue. The factory alternator tested bad, and when that didn't solve the charging problem I came here. The field fix harness solved the charging issue, then I moved on to a cooling problem. In that advanced search that you didn't feel was necessary before impugning my intellect, you would of seen that I came here and discussed diagnostic procedures for the cooling system. I eventually bought a radiator from a 305 regal, and replaced the water pump at the same time only because the pump was less than $20 at a parts house. Most recently I am having a problem building boost; and again I came here before spending a single cent. I do my very best to spend my money wisely when it comes to automotive repairs, and I don't appreciate being lumped in with 'those' who replace parts at random until the problem is solved. Especially when the person casting stones is too lazy to spend 2 minutes with the search function to make sure the casting of those stones is legitimate.

Regardless, I digress...

I'll put my test light on the car tonight and see what I can come up with. Hopefully when I start to pull fuses I'll find the short. I don't have a DVM, but I might be able to borrow one from work.

Those that offered advice, thanks. Those that called me stupid, please chime back in with advice. If you want to argue about how I am over reacting, your post wasn't meant in the way I interpreted it, or that in your opinion I am stupid; just PM me. Arguing about spending money, and whether or not I am doing it in the best manner possible really has no place here. Let's try to stick to the technical aspects of the situation. If we can do that, not only will my issue get resolved faster, but when this thread comes up in some other new guys search it will be that much more helpful.

:cheers:
 

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I am sorry that I offended you. I will be sure to avoid that in the future. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
gbsean said:
are you running an amp...my relay went bad and amp would stay on
No, the audio system is stock.

I did notice that the Walbro 340 I installed makes a loud, high pitched whining noise when it runs. I assume this is normal, but anyone that can confirm?
 

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does the field fix cure the battery Idiot light problem....anyway do what others have said...if it is the battery Idiot light then it wont charge but alternator would bench test as ok...check to see if bat light comes on....just trying to help :D
 

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neat said:
No, the audio system is stock.

I did notice that the Walbro 340 I installed makes a loud, high pitched whining noise when it runs. I assume this is normal, but anyone that can confirm?
My new pump makes a loud, high pitched whining when turn on than it quits down. You can still hear it standing by the trunk or in the car with nothing on.
 

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do you have twilight sentinal? when it comes to a draw in the system i've had ALOT. i'd check the dimmer switch and the light switch. thats where i had most my problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The fiel fix harness causes the alternator to charge, regardless of the condition of the idiot light.

I'll report back when I get some time later this week to work on it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I removed the fuses 1 by 1 with the test light installed between the positive post on the battery and the positive cable. The test light remained lit the entire time, with no change in intensity. I removed the cable from the alternator, after all the fuses were out and the light went completely out. I am going to go back out and re-install the fuses 1 by 1 with the alternator disconnected and see if the light comes back on.

Thought's?
 

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Is the battery grounded?? when i changed my battery to the optima red-top i forgot to ground the battery..i was pissed brand new battery dead in 3 days...sometimes we overlook the simple things....good luck to ya..
 
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