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Defender of the Universe
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was instructed by ARP not to install their rodbolts without their rodbolt lube. They said that it allows the bolts to stretch when torqued properly. They said its a 'moly' type lube. Anybody know anything about this? Is there something I can use inplace of their lube? Does anyone by chance know what I should torque the ARP rod bolts to? I know the stockers torque spec is 40ft/lb. I want to do the job properly but I'd rather not be held up for 2 or 3 days just waiting on their lube to be shipped. Thanks.
 

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Why ARP bolts?I always thought the stockers were the best for that app.
The ARP's need to be "torque cycled" at least three times before final torque.
Think that'll do your threads in those cast iron rods any good?
Naw. loser
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow!! Thanks Radius for that info. canada
Are the stock rod bolts still available from Buick or should I go to another source for them?
 

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I would think the dealer should have them and I believe that guys have said before that they are SPS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
SPS:dunno: dunno dunno

Whats that?

Thanks Radius. I checked with my dealer and they were 76bucks for a set and would take about 5 days to get. I ordered a set from Postons and 76bucks included 2nd day delivery headbang .
 

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Call me stupid, but I don't see the point of putting $80 bolts in a $2 cast rod. I just had new bolts put in a set for a motor I'm building; they are Pioneer bolts and cost me a whopping $11 for the set.
 

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Kendall Frederick:
Call me stupid, but I don't see the point of putting $80 bolts in a $2 cast rod. I just had new bolts put in a set for a motor I'm building; they are Pioneer bolts and cost me a whopping $11 for the set.
Did you get the optional subwoofer with those too?
:)
 

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nah, Stupid opted for the itsy bitsy buttons that you cannot see without kneeling down in the floor board to get eye level with them.

Now, Kendall, on the other hand,..... :D

What was wrong with the bolts that came out? They were often SPS and should be able to handle several torquings. They done be stretched!

I use AARP bolts and studs in mine. :p
 

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Steve Wood:
What was wrong with the bolts that came out? They were often SPS and should be able to handle several torquings. They done be stretched!

I use AARP bolts and studs in mine. :p
These were rods from a junkyard motor, history unknown; figured new bolts would be a good idea. The SPS bolts are great; when's the last time you heard of somebody losing one of these motors due to a rod bolt failure? Me either. :)

The AARP bolt joke is too lame..do you torque those with castor oil? :D
 

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Wendy,I just recently got an ARP Catalog and installation book and price sheet (free) A lot of good information on their products and building an engine. They recommend after installing their rod bolts to have the big end resized. Doing several torque cycles is good procedure using any of their bolts. Of course a rod bolt stretch guage is the best way to install any rod bolt. Any Moly Lube will work with their bolts! Torque 50 ft.lbs with moly lube. Good Luck! Gene
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks to all who replied. I didn't buy these ARP bolts, they were already installed. I recently changed my RodBearings and I need to reinstall them properly. I put them in and torqued them to 40ft/lbs and called it a day (I didn't know any better). Well I pulled the oilpan again because my knock came back and Wolla there was a loose rodbolt. I was lucky enough to find this before my journals were scarred. I'm installing yet another set of RodBearings and this time I want to install the Rod Bolts properly. I ordered a set of Stock Rod Bolts from Poston's. I figured just like Kendall..ugh Stupid :p said, I'd never heard of a Stock Rod Bolt failure dunno . I saw on GNTTYPE that the torque spec for the stock bolts is 40ft/lb. I don't have a stretch gauge so a bolt I can install with just a torque wrench is better for me. If there is something wrong with my logic here please enlighten me. Thanks again. powersix
 

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Nasty Wendy:
I'm installing yet another set of RodBearings and this time I want to install the Rod Bolts properly.
SNIP>>
If there is something wrong with my logic here please enlighten me. Thanks again. powersix
Nothing wrong with your logic..but you really should go get the rods resized at this point. Any time bolts are changed the rod will change shape and should be resized. You can install them correctly but they will still fail if the rods are sufficiently out of round. Unfortunately, that will require taking the motor apart. frown
 

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Wendy, I would be suspicous why the bolt lossened! This can distort the rod big end like Kendall suggested and advised. Pull the pistons out and have the rods checked and resized! Loosing a rod makes a big mess out of the block and crank! It's not worth taking a chance on blowing up your engine! Do it right and check it out completely! Good Luck! Gene
 

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I use ARP rod bolts on every stock rod (rebuild),Grind the caps, install the rod bolts(50 ft.lbs.) and resize the big end. If you remove the bolts, retorque them and check the big end again, it will be PERFECT. If you resize a stock rod using a stock bolt, disasssemble it,reassemble it and check it again, you will get a different reading everytime. The stock bolts dont have enough shoulder to index them properly.The ARPs are much stronger but the strength isnt really the issue, they will however keep the big end round and make the engine less vulnerable to bearing failure.
Just my findings....
Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks guys. I'll be taking the motor down soon. I'll have everything gone over and checked and corrected as needed. I'll have the ARP bolts put back in. and I'll prolly go with one of Jason Cramer's headgasket kits. I may just girdle the block while its out too. And install a roller cam and TE45a or PT76 and 84lb injectors and FAST fuel management and Jack Cotton's front mount ic and headbang OOOHHH I'm sorry I kinda slipped off into a dream. :D
 

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Wendy, polish the beams, ARP bolts, re-size the rods, balance 50% on the bob weights, check crank, (magnaflux,X-ray) fit the rods with a mic, checking procedures that make a good bottom end, drill out the #2 and #3 main passageways, (they supply two rods each), modify the block oil galley passages, front cover, blue-print the oil pump, install a booster plate and stock gears. All these things insure good oil pressure and longevity. Along with good bearings and rings with make a strong running engine. Good Luck. Gene
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Gene, thanks alot. I'm saving a copy of your advice and I'll bring it to the machine shop with me. thumb_up

BTW what exactly does polishing the beams do for them?
Thanks again.
 

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BTW what exactly does polishing the beams do for them?
Thanks again. [/QB]
Makes them more difficult to corectly balance!!!! They are $2 rods
 

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Bill, you hate cars? I thought you had to get old to hate cars!
 

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EightSecV6:
BTW what exactly does polishing the beams do for them?
Thanks again.
Makes them more difficult to corectly balance!!!! They are $2 rods [/QB]
LOL...I just got a set back from the balance guy and I had polished the beams, more or less for the hell of it. He had to take a good bit off of several but I am not sure if it was my fault as it was mostly big end work. :)

We got on the topic of what rods are worst for that and he mentioned that Mopar rods are horrible; he said he'd had to band saw chunks off of the balance pad on some Mopar rods because he had to remove so much that he was afraid to grind it all off due to the heat involved.
headbang crazy
 
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