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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well..... Went to put on the new Magnacor wires on the poorly running GN tonight. I had the IR gun in hand also.

A brief moment of lucidity made me realize I had to pull spark plug number six when I got to the passenger side wires.

I lied when I said I pulled ALL the plugs and looked at them Sunday. Actually I just took a statistically significant sample 5/6 and checked those.

Got the plug out and guess what? Yup! Ground electrode was bent right down onto the tip??? Don't have a clue how that happened as I know I gapped them all properly. Anyway they were the first CR43TS plugs I have ever used and sure did look nice with the big ground electrode. Put a new one in and walla, idle was much better and car run close to good.

Put the gun on the pipes and there seemed to be variation between 450 and 525 in temps about two inches from the heads the only place I could shoot the Omega gun. Emissivity was set to .9. 1" ring pattern just covering the pipes.

Might need injectors but at least the car spools great and runs like when I test drove it.


Moral of the story always check #6 even if it is a PITA plug.

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WE4, Daily Driver, PTE51, 43lb. Bosch, THDP race cat., Postons Headers, 21/2"SS Ultraflows and pipes, 16 pos. Maxeffort thumbwheel chip, Bilsteins, Airbags/snubber,snows, 307 adj.reg./ gauges,scamaster and D.S.,BSTC,small stuff too. V4 IS IN!!! Not legal for racing.
GN loaded, mostly stock, car #2. 112K miles. Accufab reg. 160stat.,Scanmaster.
 

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Resident Idiot
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If you purchase a 2ft extension and a spark plug socket with a built in U-joint, changing plugs is cake.

Oh ya, and not having the power master probably helps too.

It's all about the right tools. Too bad those are the only right ones I own.

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Stock Turbo, Stock Heads, Stock CAM, V4, MSD50's, TH DP, JayJackson 62mm TB, 16position MaxEffort Chip. 3750# with Driver
12.35 & 108.39 Street Trim
11.92 @ 111.77 Race Ready
mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I have the extensions, a whole pile of them, and a nice set of swivel joints for socket sets up to 1/2" from Sears. But #6 was still hot and the wire is a pain to get off so I didn't do it Sunday, oooops.

Well at least I can try driving it to work tomorrow and use the R12 A/C.
 

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always chaps me when I chase all the complex, esoteric stuff then find something basic! Good that it is going again.
 

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Well"We will let ya slid this time !But dont ever lie again or you will be banned!Hell i dont think even Mr Zip has lied?!
You know we all lost sleep trying to figure your problem out.
One more tip"Try replacing your plugs when the eng is cold"Its a lot less painfull.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was just checking them Sunday not changing them. Musta gotten dropped on the install about a month ago and bent the electrode. Either that or maybe the top engine clean unstuck something and hit it? I dunno, I did hear a big clunk after restarting the car 15 minutes after flooding it with the remainder of the can.


Still isn't in perfect tune yet. Maybe I'll hold off on the injectors and do some cosmetic and other upgrades, like a seat or some real brakes.....

Needs headers too, both sides....
 

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General Useless POS
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If you can get with a local shop who has a SnapOn truck stopping by every week, snap on makes a BEAUTIFUL 5/8 plug sucket on a swivel on a 24" extension in one piece. Its a ball swivel so it cant bind (causing plug to break) and it permenantly attached to the extension so it wont come off when you try to pull the socket off the plug. One of the best tools I own. I have 12", 24" 5/8 and 13/16 versions. Real nice to have

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Jim Testa
1986 Regal T-Type
Stock block, Turbomotion ported heads, PTE 210 roller cam, GNT ported intake, PTE Plenum, 70mm TB, PTE FM IC, MSD 50's, TE61, TPS-TEC, JT Chip, JT 200R4, Vigilante 2800 LU convertor, JT Boxed lower arms, working on girlde....
 

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I was going to say that, The ball swivels are the way to go for GN plugs. I'm still in college so buying Snap-On tools is out of the question for the most part, but I do have a killer kkchhmBENCHTOPmm extension with a ball swivel, works like a charm. What's even better is that if I bust my knuckles and get pissed I can spike it and not get any madder when I chip the chrome.

"...crazy Hungarian Temper....maybe I'll calm down with age....wait my dad is even worse......I better keep buying cheap tools"
 

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Originally posted by salvageV6:
Either that or maybe the top engine clean unstuck something and hit it? I dunno, I did hear a big clunk after restarting the car 15 minutes after flooding it with the remainder of the can.


It will be easy to change the headers while the turbo is out being rebuilt for that big clunk that went thru the turbine!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nah, it's a stocker, they are tough.


Compressor side is fine and shaft play was good for what I could see, feel and check.

Don't want to play with the exhaust side.

Postons' headers just might be the next mod. though.....
 

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Hopefully I was just kidding.


I know you did not drop the plug so it musta been that clunk you heard....strange, maybe you ought to notify the fire department and run a couple more cans thru it.
 

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After using top engine cleaner, I had a chunk of foo-foo chew up my turbine wheel.

What Steve said is a possibility...hope it didn't happen!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Whatever hit that plug nailed it shut right down on top of the other electode.


Maybe it escaped between the blades.


Hope it wasn't a chunk of valve or piston...

Drove it today ran at 220 degrees in 92 degree weather A/C on.

salvageV6 runs 175 tops in this weather...

 

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Time for a core unless the fan ain't kicking into high speed....on the other hand, if you were cruising at speed, it should run cool anyway, so I reckon it is core time.
 
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