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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What Max psi are you guys getting from a standard (non Heavy Duty)
adjustable wastegate actuator ?

I cant get past 20# with mine. :mad:

I was at 20#, went 2 complete turns and no change. I figured the std is good for a few more. Am i wrong ?
 

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sometimes 21-22...sometimes not :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I dont suppose a manual boost control will do me any good here,
i.e. RJC or grainger type ?

Weird thing with this car is, this actuator (and also another I have)
hooked up tuner style, i get a minimum of 17-18lbs, with the rod
set at 1/8" tension.

Now, shortening up the rod quite a bit, it maxes out around 20 :dunno:

Im only shooting for 22-23. guess ill have to get a HD actuator.

BLM's are near perfect, car runs great
 

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I am surprised you get that much at 1/8" tension..that is what a hd actuator should do.

You sure you have no leaks...hoses or in the intercooler?

Not sure if Jason uses a stronger spring for more boost in his valve, or not...give him a shout. Most of the ones I have seen peak out around 21# or so.
 

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of course, if the chip is programmed for 17#, that would explain the boost :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Steve Wood said:
I am surprised you get that much at 1/8" tension..that is what a hd actuator should do.

You sure you have no leaks...hoses or in the intercooler?
Yeah i made some posts a while back with the high boost concerns.
All new hoses, HD clamps and the IC is a 'new' mease big neck i got last summer..

[QUOTESteve Wood]
of course, if the chip is programmed for 17#, that would explain the boost [/QUOTE]

ahhh you may be right there... i have an extender that says ~16 lbs...
If i try tuner style with the rod tighter it should go higher though correct ?


so if i get a HD actuator, i still may be stuck at 20 without a chip reburn :dunno:
 

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with the rod set about 1/8", you should get what the chip calls for. Shortening the rod should then increase the boost above the programmed number.

If you pull the hose off the solenoid and plug the end of the hose, it should read around 12# if you have a stock solenoid...this takes the chip out of the equation.

A HD actuator should increase the boost further as the spring will have more in it as you shorten the rod. Not sure how the chip programmed duty cycle will affect the boost if you change to an HD actuator. I suspect the boost will jump up five pounds...but, it's been so long since I ran a solenoid, I don't remember :)

Does not hurt to periodically check an intercooler for leaks...sometimes there is a welding flaw that begins to leak. I doubt it in this case. :)
 

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Do you have enuf turbo to support boost > 20 psi?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
turbomonte2 said:
Do you have enuf turbo to support boost > 20 psi?
well its only a stocker right now, but shouldnt i still be able to past 20 ?


[QUOTE = Steve Wood]If you pull the hose off the solenoid and plug the end of the hose, it should read around 12# if you have a stock solenoid...this takes the chip out of the equation.[/QUOTE]

I tried 2 different wg actuators, modified stock and adjustable set with 1/8" tension on my car, 'tuner style' with the hose direct from compressor to WG and boost would go easily to 14-16.

********

Im going to try it over the weekend this way with the rod shortened and see what i get :dunno:


so whats my best option to get around ~22 lbs out of this thing ?????
 

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A stock turbo may not always make enough flow to be able to get to 22#...and if it does, it may be so far out of it's range that it may not make as much power as it would at 20#.

Shortening the rod is one option.

Using a manual bleed valve is another.
 

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I am getting about 21.5 or 22 llb. boost with a TA49 & the adjustable (many thanks, Steve Wood) rod turned in with about 3/4" left on the threaded rod. This is what I suspect is tuner style, as I have an RJC boost controller on it but the RJC boost controller does not respond to changes so I suspect I have a compressed spring in it and just haven't fixed it yet. I run 100 octane unleaded and show no timing retard whatsoever on the sm. Steve, I will forever be in your debt. Remember when this car wouldn't get out of it's own way. I had a friend throw a tune on it, dial it in at about 20-21, now I am running about 22 and it screams. No knock retard. none. What a great feeling. Only thing is, now I just wait all week for the weekends to get the car out for its ocasional cruise. Oops, sorry about getting off the thread track. My apologies. Happy Memorial Day, too, to everybody.
 

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Don't get too excited about a pound or two. The boost gauges are just not that accurate. Some people have checked/calibrated them, against lab instruments, but not many go to the trouble.
 

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Ormand said:
Don't get too excited about a pound or two. The boost gauges are just not that accurate. Some people have checked/calibrated them, against lab instruments, but not many go to the trouble.
----------------------------------
In reference to me, I had both of mine, (1) a new Autometer, & (2) an older used Blower Drive Service with tattle-tale verified at work by the calibration lab. Both were dead on up to or down to about 27 lbs. of boost or inches on the vacuum side. What would matter most is what your car generally runs in boost, what it means when the boost doesn't go as high as it generally does, and what happens when you explore new territory in upper boost levels. Fwiw, both of my gages were off in the same direction, don't remember which way, 1 lb. at about 30 lbs of boost and about 1" of vacuum at 30" of vacuum.
 
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