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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. I have been a big fan of the Grand National since it first came out but unfortunately never had the cash to do anything about it.

I now however may want to treat myself to a toy, but have a few questions and I'm hoping to hear from the experts.

I'm looking at a 1986 GN completely loaded with 100,000 miles. The car seems to look in good shape and the asking price is 6,000 dollars.

First question is what is the going rate for a 1986 GN? Does that seem reasonable?

Second, Can I expect any major problems with this car at 100,000 miles if it was well taken care of? (Turbo, Engine, Etc)

This car will only be a toy and not driven daily.

I'd really apreciate any comments and opinions.

Again I am a complete newbie here and hope to start learning more about this great car.

Thanks for your time, Lee.


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Might be a tad high. 5000 might be a better deal.
I paid 4200 for mine with 128,000 miles and it needed paint and interior work.
Where are you located?
These cars hold up very well but there are about 1000 dollars worth of mods and up grades that need to be made.
If there is a GN guru near you, let them look it over.
Good luck, you will love this car but don't get in a hurry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks ES.

The car is in the New England area and I thought about 5,ooo would be a reasonable price as well.

Can you tell me exactly what will need to be done on the car that costs 1,ooo?

Once again thanks for your reply.

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First you'll need a fuel pump, then an adjustable fp regulator, a scan tool for tuning, Routine maintenance and cleaning, a cone K&N filter, a free flowing exhaust is good, misc. low buck and free mods, sticky tires and a chip and you're running easy 12's at the track.

Fuel pump and scan tool are high on the list so you can fix the #1 problem with these cars and then diagnose the #2 thru whatever problems that may come up.

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What everybody is correctly suggesting is that you upgrade the stock pieces before you crank it up. The factory system was designed for factory boost / fueling / derivability and emissions. If we want to go faster we are going to have to change some of the elements of the factory system. We are also going to need more information than the factory gauge package provided.
Ok can I have further clarification on the ADJ FP reg-wastegate
ADJ FP = Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator. This allows you to manually trim the fuel pressure. Every car has a different fuel pressure sweet spot so you are going to need the pieces to adjust yours also. More air is going to need more fuel. You'll also need a good, removable, fuel pressure gauge. Fuel pressure is generally measured "static", that is with the vacuum line removed from the regulator.
ADJ - wastegate = Adjustable wastegate. This allows for the same trim adjustments for your boost settings. Poor fuel/ hot day /high timing = less boost. Good fuel / dense cold air / less timing = more boost. Rock solid boost control is critical.
160 stat = 160 degree thermostat. This will keep the engine cooler and provide better performance. No downside on derivability except your heater won't blow as hot on the cold winter days. High boost creates high heat. We need to keep things cool under the hood from both a performance and longevity standpoint.
307-340 walbro hotwired = New Walbro 307 or 340 Fuel Pump. The stock fuel pump was marginal at best so we need to make sure we can flow the higher volumes of fuel at the higher HP levels. No downsides, it's an "in-tank" pump. Hotwired means running a hot wire from the alternator so the pump never goes low on voltage. Fuel pumps are like any other electric motor, they need adequate voltage to perform as designed.
FP and Boost gauge = Removable fuel pressure gauge so you know your settings and an aftermarket boost gauge. The stock boost gauge is notoriously inaccurate. You need precise boost and fuel information at all times.
Scantool = An absolute must. The various sensors on the car are constantly gathering information and sending that data to the computer. The computer in turn is making decisions based upon that input. The sensor data and the decisions the computer is making have a massive impact on the derivability and performance of the car.
You need to know both what information is being gathered by the sensors and what the computer is doing about it. The sensor data is the common denominator or langauge of our cars, we all gather the same information, we all speak the same language.
Scanmaster II is a great start, but if you already have a laptop then look into a data logger like
either TurboLink or Direct Scan.
Now that you have the adjustable features you need, adequate fueling and good information - it's time to safely crank up the horses!!. Traction will be your first "new" problem.
Where can I get this stuff how much?
Pricing will vary but I would call Mike at Ramchargers, Joe at Precision Turbo and Engine or Jack Cotton. Drop Ken Mosher a note if looking into TurboLink. All are great guys and all have helped me immensely over the years.
The above was prepared by Mile High GN.

After this is done you can go with a non-stock chip and turn up the boost.

The trasher is a good chip and only cost $25.

PS – You will also need a open air K & N filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ES, Thanks again for taking the time to help me out. Very much appreciated.

I myself am not much of a mechanic, but have some friends who are very good ones and with your detailed info I'm sure they will know what to do.

I believe I noticed from reading another post that Jack Cotton is from the MA. area which is in my neighborhood so I will definately check in with him.

Take care man.

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$6,000 in New England is not a bad price for the car. Obviously 5K would be better but maybe somewhere in between would work to make a deal. As for not being mechanically inclined this is not a good choice of car, but just for a toy and since you are willing to learn you might be ok.

Take it very slow with the tuning and mods. One at a time to see how the car reacts. Scantool is a must. Cotton's should be helpful if you need a vendor or major work.

Finally with those miles you could need, tranny work (slipping or flaring under load), turbocharger (oil seals), front suspension work, and timing chain replacement (could go 80K-150K). Just my .02. Good luck.
 
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