Turbo Buick Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
OK! Who Farted Again??
Joined
·
17,852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How's the fitment on the 3.5 & is there any advantage to going the extra 1/2" on an 11 sec car? I doubt it but never know? If its a PITA to install & has more risk of hitting things then the 3" is the way for me. Who has a 3.5? What about the 3" for clearance? Thanks!
 

·
Resident Idiot
Joined
·
11,462 Posts
After the turbo, bigger is better. Who knows how much, but it all adds up. I have the 3.5" TH on my GN and it fits great.
 

·
OK! Who Farted Again??
Joined
·
17,852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thats my main concern is how it fits. Anyone else? :cheers:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
43,735 Posts
another it won't hurt, but, at your level of performance, don't expect to get much, if anything, for your money. :)

All reports I have seen say it fits well.
 

·
OK! Who Farted Again??
Joined
·
17,852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm having problems getting a good seal from the exhaust housing (ported stock) to the pipe I have now. Thinking of welding the pipe right to the elbow although I havent tried muffler cement yet? (The hi temp silicone blows out after a while.) Maybe I'll try the cement first. Personally I like this pipe as no cutting to my precious Kodiak West heat shield. Have to experiment some more before the final decision. :yup:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
43,735 Posts
why not do the obvious...figure out what is warped and have it milled flat?
 

·
OK! Who Farted Again??
Joined
·
17,852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh wise one, the flange is welded to the pipe so that the pipe comes thru 1/8" to fit into the exhaust housing & this caused the ears to bend. The gasket isnt cutting it! Mabe do it all completely flat with a gasket & try like that? My other thought (crazy but may work??) is to cut the top 3" of the pipe off & weld it to the stock housing then use a V-Band to keep things sealed up? Its a minor leak but enuf to affect the tuning I am told.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
43,735 Posts
a minor leak after the turbo has virtually no effect upon tuning.

I am not sure I quite visualize what you are describing, but, why not remove the part that protrudes thru and then have the mating flange milled flat?
 

·
OK! Who Farted Again??
Joined
·
17,852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The downpipe (actual pipe) comes slightly thru the flange into stock exhaust housing. I will get it milled flat. Could I do this myself with a belt sander? Even at 90% flat a gasket should work? :dunno:
Also, the DFI was reading 15/16 instead of 14.1 & he said its due to the leak as I'm not getting a true reading? Although the probe was not directly in the DP & was mounted to the Tail Pipe which probably is not nearly as accurate?
I like this pipe so I'm do what I can & weld in a bung for the future.
Other than belt sander any ideas where I would take it?? :dunno:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
43,735 Posts
A leak in the downpipe might throw off the wb..but, under boost, I would think it would be blowing out and not sucking air in.??? That should not have an effect upon the a/f passing the sensor.

I would not do much until you can get a bung in the downpipe, myself. I have seen differences between tail pipe probes and those up front. Bruce is not around, or he would give us a more definitive answer. :)

The mating surfaces have to be parallel to one another...if you can do that, it should work.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top