TA BLOCK/HEADS STREET MOTOR BUILD-UP - Page 8 - TurboBuicks.com
 
TurboBuicks.com  
Go Back   TurboBuicks.com > Technical Forums > Stage II, DFI & SpeedPro

TurboBuicks.com is the premier Buick Regal Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-02-2015, 06:33 PM   #106 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Bob Lob-Law's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 115
Hey Will, I went under the car and pretty much found where the oil leaks are. It is the valve cover gaskets. Both of them are leaking. I'm wondering if the OEM torque specs for the valve covers are not enough for these valve covers. Incidentally I am using cork gaskets. I'm wondering if I should be using something else.

Like you I am not wanting to race my car. I am mainly showing it, with the added joy of knowing that I have the fastest car around. I do want to have it dynoed and take it to the track a couple of times to see what she will do though. I do want to get the AC charged as well. My main goal is to have a fully functional car. Not to much to ask..... Right?
__________________
As soon as something comes out that is idiot proof, they come out with a better idiot
Bob Lob-Law is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-02-2015, 10:06 PM   #107 (permalink)
Registered User
 
william brophy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,261
I used valve cover gaskets that were metal with two lines of rubber on each side that does the sealing so they are reusable. Like I mention in my other post on those valve covers that you and I have that they could of did a better job designing the valve cover sealing surface. When I first installed the gaskets one side leaked so I had to reposition the gasket carefully so it would seal.

If you use cork gaskets they make a thin and a thicker one. I would use the thicker cork gasket and glue it to the valve cover and let it cure before you install it. Place something heavy on top of the valve cover while the glue is dying and check to make sure that the gasket stays put where it should while dying.
__________________
WE4 HARDTOP @3700 lbs., WIND-UP WINDOWS, BUILT 200-4R, OEM REAR, OEM COMPUTER, AIR CONDITIONED, ETC.= "9" Second street car @ 22 psi on foot brake, 0 Boost launch.
GOD BLESS AMERICA

Last edited by william brophy; 06-02-2015 at 10:16 PM.
william brophy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2015, 02:05 PM   #108 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Bob Lob-Law's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 115
Will, I saw the valve cover gaskets that you are talking about on Summits Racing. The are the Fel-Pro 1628. After reading the comments, I think I'm going to go with those. I just don't want to mess with cork any more than I have to. While it works for some, Its been hit or miss with me. Thanks for the help.
__________________
As soon as something comes out that is idiot proof, they come out with a better idiot
Bob Lob-Law is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Old 11-26-2015, 11:55 AM   #109 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Bob Lob-Law's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 115
Hey Will, had a major SNFAU. While putting a torque on the exhaust header bolt it stripped out. In looking at the bolt, it seems like it pulled out the first two threads. It looks like the hole is, for some reason, not truly circular. Not sure what happened or how it happened, so I just have to go on from here.

I was wondering if using a stainless steel helicoil will be the best way to go? I'm also wondering if there is a possibility that I can do this in place without having to pull the engine? I would greatly appreciate any thoughts and advice you could give. I am also thinking that I should also go from a one inch bolt to a 1 1/4 bolt to have more threads engaged.
__________________
As soon as something comes out that is idiot proof, they come out with a better idiot
Bob Lob-Law is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2015, 06:57 PM   #110 (permalink)
Registered User
 
william brophy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,261
Yes, I would do the helicoil, get a kit with the tap, drill (if you don't have the right size) and correct length coil and follow directions. I would stuff some paper towels in the exhaust hole and then some tape over the exhaust hole too. I would not go deeper because you may go into a water jacket. The only problem may be getting the room to drill. If done correctly helicoils are the way to go IMO.

To get into tighter places with a drill they made 90 degree attachments for drills that require less room and now they may sell a drill like that or use an air tool with a 90 but go slow on the drilling including the drill speed itself, to much speed will dull the bit but worse than that a fast drill speed may harden the material your trying to drill. It's been awhile so if your heads are aluminum still go slow, you don't want things to get out of hand, I would mark the drill with tape wrapped around the bit to show you when you are approx. at the right depth. Also to be on the safe side I would not tap the hole all at once unless you have a vacuum cleaner sucking the chips as you tape because the chips can start to plug the hole and mess the tap job up. Without a vac. tap some, then blow or suck the hole out, then tap some more. Maybe have to do that 4 or 5 times while tapping the hole.

If you think you can go a little deeper and want to than do so.

Good Luck,
Bill
__________________
WE4 HARDTOP @3700 lbs., WIND-UP WINDOWS, BUILT 200-4R, OEM REAR, OEM COMPUTER, AIR CONDITIONED, ETC.= "9" Second street car @ 22 psi on foot brake, 0 Boost launch.
GOD BLESS AMERICA

Last edited by william brophy; 11-26-2015 at 07:27 PM.
william brophy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2015, 06:47 AM   #111 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Bob Lob-Law's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 115
Bill, thanks for the response. I will follow the instructions to the letter for the helicoil. My plan is to use a variable speed drill and go slow due to aluminum being soft. I am not going to go any deeper, I just want to get a longer bolt to use the full length of the original hole. I don't want to compromise the strength of the block in any way. I will also do as you suggested, clean the hole often, at least 4 or 5 times.

Thank you very much for the advice. I'll let you know how it turns out. Hope you had a great Thanksgiving.
__________________
As soon as something comes out that is idiot proof, they come out with a better idiot
Bob Lob-Law is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2015, 05:02 PM   #112 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Bob Lob-Law's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 115
Hey Bill, I took a look at the bolt hole with a remote camera and I saw that I pulled out the first two threads only, the next three threads were a little bunged up. I sent a tap down the hole real slow, only a quarter turn at a time with plenty of oil. I then rinsed out the hole with WD40. I did this four times. The last time the tap went down real smooth. The camera still showed that those threads are a bit patchy but running a bolt down the hole was pretty uneventful. I'm going from a 1 inch bolt to a 1 1/4 inch bolt. The hole wasn't quite deep enough for a 1 1/2 inch bolt. I want to engage as many threads as I can. I'm going to keep the torque at 35 ft lbs. I will reinstall the header next weekend since I work late hours during the week. I'll let you know how it goes. I also want to acknowledge a mistake: I thought the header was mounted to the block, thankfully I am wrong.
Thanks for all your help.
__________________
As soon as something comes out that is idiot proof, they come out with a better idiot
Bob Lob-Law is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2015, 04:46 PM   #113 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Bob Lob-Law's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 115
Bill, well, I re-mounted the driver's side exhaust header and tried to torque the bolt in question. Apparently all the threads are pretty pooched. I will be getting the heli-coil sometime within the next couple of days. I'll let you know how that goes.
__________________
As soon as something comes out that is idiot proof, they come out with a better idiot
Bob Lob-Law is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2016, 05:20 PM   #114 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Bob Lob-Law's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 115
Bill, finally got the time to work on the car. I did all the measurements and drilled into the head, retapped the hole and inserted the heli-coil. It all went back together very nicely and I was able to torque the bolts to 35 ft lbs. The heli-coil feels firm with no play. I let the car idle for a bit and then took her out. All is right with the world once more. Thanks for your help.
__________________
As soon as something comes out that is idiot proof, they come out with a better idiot
Bob Lob-Law is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2016, 08:47 PM   #115 (permalink)
Registered User
 
william brophy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,261
Bob, heli-coils are wonderful things if the install goes correctly. Glad to hear that everything worked out.

Best Regards,

Bill
__________________
WE4 HARDTOP @3700 lbs., WIND-UP WINDOWS, BUILT 200-4R, OEM REAR, OEM COMPUTER, AIR CONDITIONED, ETC.= "9" Second street car @ 22 psi on foot brake, 0 Boost launch.
GOD BLESS AMERICA
william brophy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2016, 04:34 PM   #116 (permalink)
Registered User
 
forzfed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Winterpeg
Posts: 6,887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Lob-Law View Post
Will, I saw the valve cover gaskets that you are talking about on Summits Racing. The are the Fel-Pro 1628. After reading the comments, I think I'm going to go with those. I just don't want to mess with cork any more than I have to. While it works for some, Its been hit or miss with me. Thanks for the help.
I'm not a fan of cork it gets soaked with oil then starts to leak everywhere. Then if you live in a cold climate it will shrink and rip. I pulled one valve cover gasket off in 4 pieces.
forzfed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2016, 10:36 PM   #117 (permalink)
Registered User
 
william brophy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,261
The car was sold today. The buyer who is a great guy saw that it was for sale in this thread. I wish him the best with the car and I hope that most have enjoyed the thread.

Best Regards,

Bill
__________________
WE4 HARDTOP @3700 lbs., WIND-UP WINDOWS, BUILT 200-4R, OEM REAR, OEM COMPUTER, AIR CONDITIONED, ETC.= "9" Second street car @ 22 psi on foot brake, 0 Boost launch.
GOD BLESS AMERICA
william brophy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2016, 01:29 PM   #118 (permalink)
Registered User
 
william brophy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,261
It's New Home

Click on Pic to enlarge; then click on pic again and then again to fully enlarge.

Click image for larger version

Name:	New Owners Home.jpg
Views:	221
Size:	107.9 KB
ID:	70553
__________________
WE4 HARDTOP @3700 lbs., WIND-UP WINDOWS, BUILT 200-4R, OEM REAR, OEM COMPUTER, AIR CONDITIONED, ETC.= "9" Second street car @ 22 psi on foot brake, 0 Boost launch.
GOD BLESS AMERICA

Last edited by william brophy; 05-15-2016 at 01:42 PM.
william brophy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2018, 06:53 PM   #119 (permalink)
Registered User
 
william brophy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,261
Pics: Recently found of car being picked up.

The car has been gone for quite some time (5-14-16) but I just ran across these pics from that day the car was sold & picked up by the new owner. Just thought some may enjoy looking them over; I did! Man I miss that "Bad Ass Buick".

Click on pic, then you can click again to enlarge more and then a third click for the largest pic, worked for me.
Attached Thumbnails
TA BLOCK/HEADS STREET MOTOR BUILD-UP-1.0.jpg   TA BLOCK/HEADS STREET MOTOR BUILD-UP-2.0.jpg   TA BLOCK/HEADS STREET MOTOR BUILD-UP-3.0.jpg  
__________________
WE4 HARDTOP @3700 lbs., WIND-UP WINDOWS, BUILT 200-4R, OEM REAR, OEM COMPUTER, AIR CONDITIONED, ETC.= "9" Second street car @ 22 psi on foot brake, 0 Boost launch.
GOD BLESS AMERICA

Last edited by william brophy; 02-10-2018 at 07:19 PM.
william brophy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2018, 07:35 PM   #120 (permalink)
Registered User
 
william brophy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,261
Here's what I'm now running down the 1/4 mile just in case someone might be interested. C7/Z06, 650 Horse & 650 Torque from the factory. The Buick would still make this look slow with some C16 and the boost turned up.
Attached Thumbnails
TA BLOCK/HEADS STREET MOTOR BUILD-UP-mir-pic-my-c7.jpg   TA BLOCK/HEADS STREET MOTOR BUILD-UP-p1100129.jpg   TA BLOCK/HEADS STREET MOTOR BUILD-UP-capitol-10.43-slip.jpg  
__________________
WE4 HARDTOP @3700 lbs., WIND-UP WINDOWS, BUILT 200-4R, OEM REAR, OEM COMPUTER, AIR CONDITIONED, ETC.= "9" Second street car @ 22 psi on foot brake, 0 Boost launch.
GOD BLESS AMERICA

Last edited by william brophy; 02-10-2018 at 09:37 PM.
william brophy is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sirius-Microsoft-Detroit Steve Wood The Waiting Room 62 06-05-2009 01:27 PM
Petition to Revise Street Racing Legislation 1980monteturbo Buick Racers in Toronto and Surrounding Areas 24 05-21-2008 10:35 PM
Buick Grand National Street Rod tommytrouble Southern United States 1 03-10-2008 08:43 AM
Street racing update norbs Buick Racers in Toronto and Surrounding Areas 38 03-22-2007 04:29 PM
Mustang vs TA, etc... madhat Buick Smack Down 101 3 11-19-2003 12:08 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:57 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.