Correct.. I dumped the bolts that came with the bar and used Grade "8" 3.5" bolts with nyloc nuts. (self locking nuts)
You need to get these at a fastener supplier not Lowes or Pep Boys.
I used the ones that came with them on the three that I have installed with no problems.
By the time you have it in place, you won't care about the bolts, most likely. One of them did go on without much hassle. Much easier, I suspect if you can find someone to help you.
I one point they changed hardware suppliers. I'm not sure when but many complained about bolts too short or breaking. I believe they have solved that problem. They must have sold the bad bolts to us Yankees's up here
Sounds like I will need help from the son-in-law. (I knew he would come in handy one of these days.)
I bought the bar used so it had no bolts. The guy wrapped this thing up like it was a valuable vase, why?
This bar is a monster
It's a heavy crude piece....it ain't no ming vase. Like Ed said, buy good bolts not mayasian rip offs and get them tight so it does not elongate the holes...keep the spacer inside the bar....it's better on boxed bars that don't crush easily.
If you don't have a boxed set of lower bars, either retain the factory spacer inside the bars, or, use a stack of big washers inside the bar so the atr bar does not crush, bend, or otherwise mutilate the bars...
Inside the LCA there is a spacer sleeves to keep them from collapsing. If you don't have them anymore you can double up 1/2" nuts. They will fit in and do the same thing. I found self locking nuts work best with locktite for extra measure.
My bar came with the good bolts. I boxed both upper and lower control arms and welded the spacers in place before boxing them, installed poly-graphite bushings that are greasable. The rersults were: now centered diff. and rides better than stock W/O the front SB. I love that rear SB and polished mine and painted it with custom color paint. (I know it doesn't help the effect but my radical way of doing things) Gene:headbang:
This one is 1 1/2" compared to ATR's 1 3/8". Looks pretty good in the picture and powdercoated. Is the ATR bar $149.00? This one is $50.00 more but may be more pleasing to the eye!
For the street, at least the ones I drive on, the atr bar is kinda big. Drop one wheel in a pot hole and the other tire tries to come off the ground...makes for a little jumpiness on rough pavement when cornering....but, it works great for the straight line stuff.
If I were starting over, I would use the Paul Ferry stuff. If I ever get my attitude straight and finish my elky, I may pull the ATR over to it from the GN and put the Paul bar on the GN.
Anyone have any experience with the BMR sway bar that CallMeMud mentioned? I have the BMR lca's and I was considering getting their sway bar, also. The ATR bar sounds like it would work fine, but I am concerned about it bolting to the BMR lca's.
That photo of the silver Monte is Frankg's brother. It straightened his car out and he got his best 60 but crashed the car. Other than that he was happy with it
Nope. I asked Frank to have his brother check the mounting perches on the frame. I know he didn't have them reinforced and my guess is one cracked and finally let go. Car was going 9.50@140 MPH.
do the math-makes a lot of difference. Cars handle the best with 1 1/8 to 1 1/4....then it becomes a compromise for straight line versus handling in normal driving...hell, let's make one that is 2", then.
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