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TA BLOCK/HEADS STREET MOTOR BUILD-UP

64K views 120 replies 23 participants last post by  william brophy 
#1 · (Edited)
I hope you enjoy the pics. Center pic has tapers ground on the oil plug bolt heads for rear of cam "block surface bearing" clearance.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
#2 set of pics. I used custom Ross pistons with the sides coated.
 

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#3 · (Edited)
#3 set of pics. I used a TA front cover and Fel-pro #1007 o-ringed head gaskets with extra cooling holes drilled in them.
 

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#4 ·
#4 set of pics, dipstick is more out of the way than on the stocker.
 

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#5 · (Edited)
#5 set of pics. Aftermarket Champion intake. Engine has been on the street for a while now with no oil leaks or burning. Using OEM oil pump gears, pressure hot at 900 rpm idle= 25/28 psi, pressure at W.O.T.= 65 psi (pressure of relief spring) using 15/50 wt. oil.
 

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#6 ·
Some extra car pics.

S-10 front brakes and a Poston dash install.
 

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#7 ·
Wow... all that work and you stick a Fram filter on it?
 
#8 · (Edited)
I used the HP fram because at first I had the relief valve plugged in the "SAE" filter housing (larger threads) and the fram hp's have a relief valve built in.

I changed back to a stock OEM "Metric" filter housing & even hooked the OEM oil cooler back up and now the oil pan is a little cooler to the touch.

PS: IMHO I think the HP series of Fram is better than thier standard filters, they have a high flow rate too.
 
#10 ·
I don't have the paper work in front of me but no more than any normal engine work or I would of remember!!!! but read on.

The machine shop that I use was known as Coleman Bros. on RT.1 in Maryland. Bill Coleman now runs his shop from a large shop behind his residence and he has over 40+ years experience. He has done tons of aluminum blocks over the years and checks/catches & knows many things that other so called experts miss which have cost customers money even to the point of really messing the motors up, this you can't buy!!!

Some blocks are not machined correctly form the various manufactures from time to time.

On the other web site I have talked or read a few of the other knowledgeable TA block owners that have had a few mistakes made in preparing their blocks.

I have had a few 109 blocks and small block Chevy's done at Coleman's and he charges the same for any operation such as boring, decking, etc. aluminum or cast iron. His prices are in line or "less" than other machine shops in the area. If your engine does not need it, Coleman will tell you along with maybe something you where not aware of that needs to be done. He's honest, that's why he is still in business with a backlog.
 
#14 ·
Looks good Billy, I'm sure it will fly! You know for sure that anything you get from Bill Coleman's shop will be nothing less than perfect.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Bill, I may never press this motor. :dunno: Just pump gas "only" and keep the boost where the car stays above 11.50 if I take it to the track to drag race; no cage in this street car. However folks I may let it go if I go to another track rental. :yup:

I've been out of bracket racing for a couple of years now Bill but if everything goes OK I should be back to bracket racing with a new street/strip "bracket racer" soon. :usa:
Bill B.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Update= Front cover oil leak.

The front cover developed an oil leak which is a first for me. I had a hard time finding it because the oil was running along the oil pan rail.

Pic #1) Pointer shows a cut in the OEM gasket which is cause by how the block is machined/made that is just long enough so the oil can run out on the other side of where the timing chain cover flange compresses the cover gasket.

Pic#2) How the block looks behind the gasket.
 

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#18 · (Edited)
Fixing front cover oil leak

Pic#1) To make the flange wider (to the outside) in that area to get a seal, I used Marine-Tex.

Pic#2) I than filed it down level with the flange and used a straight edge to check, than shot it with a little silver paint. I think this mod to the timing cover sealing flange along with a little rtv on the gasket in that area should do the trick.
 

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#19 ·
Cam Sensor Wear

I have not been paying attention but I think the engine has around 3,000 miles or so on it now and this is what the cam sensor gear looked like when I took a pic of it today as things are going back together.
 

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#21 · (Edited)
Modified OEM Oil Pan

This is the pan I am using, it's the original one that came on the car. It's 1/2 inch deeper than the RJC oil pan that I started off with. I like the OEM pan rail so I decided to modified the pan and use it.
 

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#25 · (Edited)
Standard journal bearing John Craig 76 3 bolt 85 exhaust housing turbo and a 224@ .050 hydraulic roller cam.

It is finished, this was just a repair for an oil leak but I did switch back to my old Art Carr 16930 converter while the engine was out to see if it picks up or slows the car down from what I was using.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Frame Mod.

While bolting the engine in, I decided to take a couple pics of the frame mod that I did around 2000 when the car was running 10.50's to strengthen it up.

The pics are dark; should of had more light under the car, so once you click on the "thumbnail", than click on the thumbnail again, than enlarge the "whole screen" and last click on the pic itself to "enlarge again".

Pic #1) The "stock frame" is boxed on the very ends but not in the middle part. So I welded 1/4" thick by 1" angle iron on the inside of the open part of the frame with a weld underneath to the bottom of the frame. You can see the angle iron which is between the boxed trans mount area and the front boxed section. Due to the trans mount this was done with two sections of angle iron. You can still get to everything. :headbang:

Pic #2) I than welded a 2" wide by 3/16" thick long flat bar to the bottom of the frame rail from the rear boxed section to the front boxed section. I filled in with weld between the inside of the flat bar and the angle iron to make it look like one piece.

PS: I don't think it added more than about 5/10 lbs. to the car total and it looks better in person than in "these" pics.
 

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#27 · (Edited)
Performance Results

*93 octane pump gas "only"
*TT 5.6 street 20/18 degree chip
*Stock MAF Sensor with screens removed and a 3" by 4" long plastic tube added to the front of the OEM sensor to straighten the air, works well with chip.
*Poston headers with wrapped 3" ATR down pipe.
*Old Art Carr 16930 converter.
*Bald 275/60 15 MT drag radials

Launched at 0 boost with 12/14 psi of boost down the strip because the boost would drop to around 12 psi on the approx. 5300 rpm shifts for a while. Must enlarge pic to see ET & MPH of car 232.

PS: I have run the car with alky at 17 psi on the street and at that point it "starts" to wake up and become an "animal". :D
 

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#29 · (Edited)
That 4" hose to the MAF sensor/turbo is the one you sold me about 10 years ago if you remember Bill. Oh, and that 16930 Art Carr converter is the one out of your father's long gone GN.
 
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