|01-15-2007, 01:25 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: May 2001
What is the best way to remove a Stripped lug nut
What is the best way to remove a stripped lug nut? Was installing my Escalade rims and when I was removing the last rim on the LF two lug nuts were stripped. As I was removing the lug nuts it was getting tighter. I went to a fix flat shop to see if they could use the gun. He didn't want to take the chance of snapping the stud. Also if I have to replace the studs how is this done? Does the knuckle have to be removed? How about the front drive shaft? This is on a 1994 Yukon GT. Any tips or tricks would be great.
|01-15-2007, 01:35 PM||#2 (permalink)|
Join Date: Sep 2000
get a vice grip on it, then slip a pipe over the vice grip handle for leverage. If the nut is recessed so you cant do the above, I would used a grinder to flatten the rounding off to put a ratched on it, if that doesnt work, split the nut with a grinder and tap it off with a screwdriver or cold chisel.
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|01-15-2007, 02:04 PM||#4 (permalink)|
Not a Democrat any more..
or take it to a body shop and ask them if the have a lug off tool
Last edited by gbsean; 01-16-2008 at 01:21 PM.
|01-15-2007, 02:09 PM||#5 (permalink)|
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: SW FL
From what you describe, it sounds like the LUG is stripped onto the stud. Meaning, the outside is the nut is fine, but it's locking onto the threads on the stud.
If that's the case.. and you've already felt it get real tight, then it's too late. Put an impact on it and bust them off. A nut splitter would work, but I doubt that there's enough room to get one in there with the wheel still on.
If I rember correctly, all you should have to do is remove the brake rotor, pound the stubs out, and pull new studs in. Those should be setup like FWD hubs, and "Should" be enough room to put 1 in at a time by rotating the hub to the correct position.
Get some thick washers, a 4way(no breaker bar as you can't pull straight with that), and pull it through by tightning a nut (discard nut after use to be safe) onto the washers.
That's how we allways used to do it at the Discount Tire I ran. Worked like a charm.
|01-15-2007, 02:12 PM||#7 (permalink)|
Join Date: May 2001
Madcat 455 that's exactly what happend. Thank you.
|01-15-2007, 02:33 PM||#8 (permalink)|
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Seattle area
Here's a tool available from your local Sears store: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
If the stud is stripped (very common) you should be able to just knock it out (with a big hammer) from the hub or axle. (I always bring a few extra with me to the track if I am running/testing a street car with out larger studs, as the longer aftermarket studs don't strip as often.) Next time time you install the nuts, dab a little anti-sieze on the threads. To install a new stud, slip it into the open hole through the back side and get a bunch of 1/2" (or what ever size needed) washers over the stud and and then thread a NEW lug nut on (with anti-sieze) and tighten it down, pulling the stud into palce. If the stud is inaccessible from behind, you might have to remove the axle or the hub first. Doorman makes shorter studs for most vehicles for just this case, too. Sometimes you need to cut the stud shorter BEFORE you knock it out, so it will have room to fall out. This is why Doorman makes shorter studs. Hope this helps.
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|01-16-2007, 12:05 AM||#9 (permalink)|
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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My Dad had to replace stripped studs after pep-boys stripped em on the 94 Chevy. He just tapped the old ones out and tap in the new ones. This is the reason we replace our own brake pads anymore since the shop strip the lug nuts and studs too often.
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