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Old 12-28-2006, 01:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
FastRegalWE2
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Whats up with this file, FAST

I logged a warm and cold idle file. Ever since I put on my 200AMP alt, when I hit the brakes (PM) or turn on the heat/AC the engine dies down for a second. I havent gotten any response to the PMs I sent asking about the alternator.

If someone can take a look at the 2 Id be forever in debt, wait I own a Buick, so I already am
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Old 12-28-2006, 02:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
EightSecV6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastRegalWE2
I logged a warm and cold idle file. Ever since I put on my 200AMP alt, when I hit the brakes (PM) or turn on the heat/AC the engine dies down for a second. I havent gotten any response to the PMs I sent asking about the alternator.

If someone can take a look at the 2 Id be forever in debt, wait I own a Buick, so I already am

alot of times OLD Buick wiring (grounds) will cause what you are experiencing. The ECM is probably seeing a blip on the TPS or MAP sensor causing it to add/pull fuel. Create a dash and log the TPS, MAP and engine rpm as well as actual A/F ratio at 20 frames/sec and tap the brakes to see what they are doing. Post back the results.
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Old 12-28-2006, 03:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
FastRegalWE2
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here is the info I logged

before drop
idle 900
MAP 54
coolant 165
air temp 114
TPS 4
battery 14.3
spark btdc 33.75
inj DC 1.4
bpw (ms) 1.9
MAP (PSIA) -7
actual a/f 14.19 but WB is bad, went bad not long ago, problem was happening before it went bad
fuel #hr 7.2
lambda .97


1st frame into drop

idle 850
MAP 55
coolant 165
air temp 114
TPS 4
battery 14.3
spark btdc 33.25
inj DC 1.4
bpw (ms) 1.9
MAP (PSIA) -6.5
actual a/f 14.19 but WB is bad, went bad not long ago, problem was happening before it went bad
fuel #hr 6.8
lambda .97

2nd frame
idle 900
MAP 65
coolant 165
air temp 114
TPS 4
battery 14.1
spark btdc 33.50
inj DC 3.1
bpw (ms) 4.1
MAP (PSIA) -5.1
actual a/f 14.19 but WB is bad, went bad not long ago, problem was happening before it went bad
fuel #hr 15.3
lambda .97

this frame is at the mid point, lowest voltage during drop
idle 700
MAP 70
coolant 165
air temp 114
TPS 4
battery 13.4
spark btdc 33.50
inj DC 2.2
bpw (ms) 1.9
MAP (PSIA) -4.5
actual a/f 14.19 but WB is bad, went bad not long ago, problem was happening before it went bad
fuel #hr 6.3
lambda .97
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Old 12-28-2006, 03:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
EightSecV6
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the WB would definately be helpful. Save your file as it is, put ALL the AE tables to zero correction across the board after it is already running, tap the brake pedal and see if it goes away with NO AE correction.
What are the closed loop settings?
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Old 12-28-2006, 04:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EightSecV6
the WB would definately be helpful. Save your file as it is, put ALL the AE tables to zero correction across the board after it is already running, tap the brake pedal and see if it goes away with NO AE correction.
What are the closed loop settings?
Im lucky I know enough about the system to save a log file. I do not know how to do what you just said or what AE is. I havent done any tuning to it at all so Im in the dark there

is that Afterstart Enrichment?
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Old 12-28-2006, 04:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
EightSecV6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastRegalWE2
Im lucky I know enough about the system to save a log file. I do not know how to do what you just said or what AE is. I havent done any tuning to it at all so Im in the dark there

is that Afterstart Enrichment?
You would need to save all tables into a file (gct) and name it something and then go to Acceleration Enrichment. Make all the tables(AE vs TPS, AE vs MAP, AE vs CLT TEMP) zero all the way accross.
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Old 12-28-2006, 04:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I really aprerciate the help.

Im going to read up a bit on this an work at it some more tomorrow before I mess something up.

I did view all the tables

AE vs TPS Position- there was no change when I stepped on the brake but it did change when I hit the gas pedal. I right clicked the graph and it said Force value to 41.2

AE vs MAP there was no change on brake or gas pedal and Force value was set at 0.00

AE vs TPS Rate no change with either pedal and Force value was set to 0.09

again, thanks for taking the time to respond
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Old 12-28-2006, 06:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
EightSecV6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastRegalWE2
I really aprerciate the help.

Im going to read up a bit on this an work at it some more tomorrow before I mess something up.

I did view all the tables

AE vs TPS Position- there was no change when I stepped on the brake but it did change when I hit the gas pedal. I right clicked the graph and it said Force value to 41.2

AE vs MAP there was no change on brake or gas pedal and Force value was set at 0.00

AE vs TPS Rate no change with either pedal and Force value was set to 0.09

again, thanks for taking the time to respond
You will need to make the entire graph ZERO all the way across, even if you see nothing moving. Highlight the whole graph with the shift and arrow key and enter "0". see if that helps, it it does, it is a wiring issue, I have had that happen on several cars...
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Old 12-28-2006, 07:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EightSecV6
You will need to make the entire graph ZERO all the way across, even if you see nothing moving. Highlight the whole graph with the shift and arrow key and enter "0". see if that helps, it it does, it is a wiring issue, I have had that happen on several cars...
Ok, I set all the AE tables to 0. The RPM drop went away. So I take it I need to start looking at the grounds
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Old 12-28-2006, 09:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastRegalWE2
Ok, I set all the AE tables to 0. The RPM drop went away. So I take it I need to start looking at the grounds
Start there, it is gonna be a long haul......
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Old 12-28-2006, 10:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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sounds another thing thats going to have to wait until spring, Im leaving for school in less than 2 weeks until Apr

thanks alot for your help. At least I know where to start anyway
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Old 12-31-2006, 12:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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where are you getting the power for the MAP sensor? if you are using the factory map sensor location/wiring for your power and ground there is the problem.


The 5 volts and ground are tied into the tach and boost gauge. the tach and boost gauge has thee own 5 volt power supply that is not tied in with the other 5 volt power sources for the engine sensors.

what you need to do is pull a ground and a 5 volt wire from the tps. since those are coming from the fast ecu and those are a rugulated power source so they stay a constant 5 volts



i had about the same problem except my car when you would turn the headlights the car would go rich. What was happening was the headlights/dashlights would change the incoming voltage to the map sensor and that inturn would change the output voltage as well. the fast system seen that as a vac/kpa change int he engine and strt adding fuel accordingly.

so i got the checking it with a volt meter and sure enuff the voltage would change no matter what you turned on in the car the voltage would change at the map sensor. the lights affected it the most tho.

So with some more research the 5 volt power supply in the dash for the tach and boost gauge is not regulated. so a change in input voltage it would not correct for so the 5 volt out put would change also.


that would explain why there is so much inconstistansy in the tach/boost readings too i believe.


HTH sorry for the long post.
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Old 01-15-2007, 10:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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oh boy, so I left to Gulfport for school, had a 3 day weekend so I drove back to STL to work on the car, well and to see the wifey and kids anyway, I did continuity tests on all the grounds I could find with my Fluke 87. I wiggled them all and all were tight, I tested for continuity on various parts of the chasis and various parts of the car. Got the beeeeeeep each time. I pulled up the MAF plug and had batt voltage on the pink wire with black stripe and ground on the black wire. Then I pulled up the EGR sol plug from atop the trans and had ground on the black wire and GROUND on the pink wire with black stripe. That part kinda looses me as I would think that color wire should be a positive wire and not a ground. I had no schematic and no internet connection due to lack of power from the ice storm. Sooooo, I ordered Capspers wire conversion harness to tie the MAF to MAP for DFI, just to see if my problem is somewhere in there. I checked the MAP and TPS for 5 volt ref and both had 5 but couldnt check them with the car running. Another thing I did was pull the FAST ECU to see if I can send it somewhere and have it checked out to make sure all the circuits are in working order. Drove it all the way back to Gulfport with me now I need to find a place to get it tested/repaired. Geesh.
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Old 01-27-2007, 05:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloGN
what you need to do is pull a ground and a 5 volt wire from the tps. since those are coming from the fast ecu and those are a rugulated power source so they stay a constant 5 volts
Caspers had a harness for $50 to do this. I bought it, drove 712 miles to put it in, didnt have any problems with the car dying out. Very nice piece. I went to put my AE tables back to where they were when the problem was present and didnt have my current calibration file saved. I ended up putting a GCT file in that was for a 360 V8 thinking it was the original one for my car and then realized when I got the car tuned the guy used his laptop so I dont even have the correct file. Ive gone through and reset the parameters for fuel calculations to the Buick but I still need to know the firing order to program into the FAST. . Hopefully he has my file so I didnt just make a $400 mistake by writing over it.
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