How bad is it!

urbanm · 09-28-2000, 01:48 PM

I think I broke it good! After installing a ta-49 atr headers and pipes
new valve springs I was out trying to get a base set up going. running
open down pipe w.ith lubrant 93 chip 17 lbs boost. Scan tool on knock
sensor not responding 1st yellow always on. FP set at 40 vac off. I was
getting into it shift into 3rd seemed soft and late. Trying to watch
boost road and scanner, then the bad sound came. At first I thought I
spit the elbow to downpipe gasket or some other exhaust leak the engine
never quit running.Turned around headed for home kept thinking leak, it
had power and the knocking wasn't to bad and I did have some spark knock
going into third. NO smoke I was thinking it might be valve train after
installing springs. Parked it in garage and shut it off. It restarted
no problem, I couldn't isolate noise to much pass. side front of motor.
Maybe bearings?
Removed valve covers to day-intact. no oil in rad., no water in oil.
No oil leaks out side motor. No metal in oil drain pan or dust.
plug from front cyl looked ok
Any guesses? or course of action. car has 79000mi. If a rebuild is in
order at some point I will need a list of the better parts I should
install,rod, pistons ect.
Thanks Mart

ZACKS85 GN · 09-29-2000, 05:48 PM

After changing my valve springs my engine started knocking at the front. Turned out to be a rod bearing. It seems that the new springs were too much for the old stock plastic timing gear. The plastic groung off and blocked off the oil pick up, starving the engine for oil. Trashed the crank and rod, but turbo looks to be ok. I hope your problem is somthing simple and not major like mine. Good luck and let us know what you find.

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85 GN blown up for now

urbanm · 09-29-2000, 09:37 PM

Well I put the valve covers back on filled oil with new filter and
started it. It fired right up,small ex. leak. There was no hint of any
weird noise,let it warm up then increased throttle thats when it started
making noise. The sound isn't a fast ticking but a louder muted pounding
of sorts towards front of motor inside block I cant tell what side. if I
increase RPM it quiets down until new RPM levels out.
I shut it down removed plugs and did compression test these are the
#'s 1.)150 3.)155 5.)160 2.)145 4.)150 6.)143
What do you guys think?
Mart

ZACKS85 GN · 09-29-2000, 10:45 PM

Sounds like my car did. Some times it would not make a sound ,but come to a stop sign and it would start knocking. If I got up to speed and levled out it would knock.I first pulled the drivers side valve cover and started the engine, there was very little oil comming out of the pushrods. So I dropped the pan and found the problem. I lost the crank and one rod.

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85 GN blown up for now

hot84wh1 · 09-30-2000, 02:37 PM

I'm guessing it is a crank bearing failure. Rod bearing failure is louder and gets worse very quickly. Crank bearing failure is a duller thud and takes longer for it to get worse. Pull the pan and pull off your caps one at a time and check them with plastic gauge, if you don't find a problem check your rod bearings.
If your going to keep the car why don't you just get it rebuilt. TRW forged pistons, shot peen and balance the rods, cut the crank, have the internals balanced. Maybe get a engine girdle and two forged center main caps. That combo sould hold for 500 HP easy.

[This message has been edited by hot84wh1 (edited September 30, 2000).]

Buick From Hell · 09-30-2000, 06:55 PM

I agree with hot84, the old "thud" (or "pounding") usually means a main bearing! Probably spun...

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Custom Made Buick Goodies! (by ME!)

urbanm · 10-01-2000, 09:42 AM

The pan will come off today-sunday-more to follow
Thanks for the info Mart

09-28-2000, 01:48 PM	#1 (permalink)
urbanm Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Comstock Park MI USA Posts: 5	How bad is it! I think I broke it good! After installing a ta-49 atr headers and pipes new valve springs I was out trying to get a base set up going. running open down pipe w.ith lubrant 93 chip 17 lbs boost. Scan tool on knock sensor not responding 1st yellow always on. FP set at 40 vac off. I was getting into it shift into 3rd seemed soft and late. Trying to watch boost road and scanner, then the bad sound came. At first I thought I spit the elbow to downpipe gasket or some other exhaust leak the engine never quit running.Turned around headed for home kept thinking leak, it had power and the knocking wasn't to bad and I did have some spark knock going into third. NO smoke I was thinking it might be valve train after installing springs. Parked it in garage and shut it off. It restarted no problem, I couldn't isolate noise to much pass. side front of motor. Maybe bearings? Removed valve covers to day-intact. no oil in rad., no water in oil. No oil leaks out side motor. No metal in oil drain pan or dust. plug from front cyl looked ok Any guesses? or course of action. car has 79000mi. If a rebuild is in order at some point I will need a list of the better parts I should install,rod, pistons ect. Thanks Mart __________________ 84 GN ta-49 37# delphi's atr headers an pipes

09-29-2000, 05:48 PM	#2 (permalink)
ZACKS85 GN Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: China Grove, N.C. USA Posts: 11	After changing my valve springs my engine started knocking at the front. Turned out to be a rod bearing. It seems that the new springs were too much for the old stock plastic timing gear. The plastic groung off and blocked off the oil pick up, starving the engine for oil. Trashed the crank and rod, but turbo looks to be ok. I hope your problem is somthing simple and not major like mine. Good luck and let us know what you find. ------------------ 85 GN blown up for now __________________ Zack Willett 85GN LE-TA-61,Turbo Motion Intake/Intercooler Kit,ATR SS Header Kit,ATR 2 1/2" SS Exhaust,Gutted cat,Turbomotion Race Port heads w/ 1.77"/1.5" Manley's,ATR 309G Roller cam,RJC rocker supports and HD shafts,10/10 crank,Accu Fab Adj. Reg.,Hot Wire kit,340 pump,MSD 50's,HV Front Cover,T/A performance cam bearings, Sealed power rings,Federal-mogul main and King rod bearings,Billet center caps,9" K&N (on Jeep),Peg-leg, 235/60 T/A's on Craiger S/S wheels. Engine at S&S Turbo Regal

09-29-2000, 09:37 PM	#3 (permalink)
urbanm Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Comstock Park MI USA Posts: 5	Well I put the valve covers back on filled oil with new filter and started it. It fired right up,small ex. leak. There was no hint of any weird noise,let it warm up then increased throttle thats when it started making noise. The sound isn't a fast ticking but a louder muted pounding of sorts towards front of motor inside block I cant tell what side. if I increase RPM it quiets down until new RPM levels out. I shut it down removed plugs and did compression test these are the #'s 1.)150 3.)155 5.)160 2.)145 4.)150 6.)143 What do you guys think? Mart __________________ 84 GN ta-49 37# delphi's atr headers an pipes

09-29-2000, 10:45 PM	#4 (permalink)
ZACKS85 GN Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: China Grove, N.C. USA Posts: 11	Sounds like my car did. Some times it would not make a sound ,but come to a stop sign and it would start knocking. If I got up to speed and levled out it would knock.I first pulled the drivers side valve cover and started the engine, there was very little oil comming out of the pushrods. So I dropped the pan and found the problem. I lost the crank and one rod. ------------------ 85 GN blown up for now __________________ Zack Willett 85GN LE-TA-61,Turbo Motion Intake/Intercooler Kit,ATR SS Header Kit,ATR 2 1/2" SS Exhaust,Gutted cat,Turbomotion Race Port heads w/ 1.77"/1.5" Manley's,ATR 309G Roller cam,RJC rocker supports and HD shafts,10/10 crank,Accu Fab Adj. Reg.,Hot Wire kit,340 pump,MSD 50's,HV Front Cover,T/A performance cam bearings, Sealed power rings,Federal-mogul main and King rod bearings,Billet center caps,9" K&N (on Jeep),Peg-leg, 235/60 T/A's on Craiger S/S wheels. Engine at S&S Turbo Regal

09-30-2000, 02:37 PM	#5 (permalink)
hot84wh1 Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Wi Posts: 6	I'm guessing it is a crank bearing failure. Rod bearing failure is louder and gets worse very quickly. Crank bearing failure is a duller thud and takes longer for it to get worse. Pull the pan and pull off your caps one at a time and check them with plastic gauge, if you don't find a problem check your rod bearings. If your going to keep the car why don't you just get it rebuilt. TRW forged pistons, shot peen and balance the rods, cut the crank, have the internals balanced. Maybe get a engine girdle and two forged center main caps. That combo sould hold for 500 HP easy. [This message has been edited by hot84wh1 (edited September 30, 2000).] __________________ 84 WH1 50k mostly stock, for now

09-30-2000, 06:55 PM	#6 (permalink)
Buick From Hell my bitch is on fire!! Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Salt Lake City, Utah Posts: 908	I agree with hot84, the old "thud" (or "pounding") usually means a main bearing! Probably spun... ------------------ Custom Made Buick Goodies! (by ME!) __________________ CUSTOM TURBO REGAL DRESS-UP STUFF by BFH billet shift handles, new console overlays, door pull-strap screw covers, dash & engine compartment dress-up, etc etc! contact Mark Hueffman at http://www.buickgn.com

10-01-2000, 09:42 AM	#7 (permalink)
urbanm Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Comstock Park MI USA Posts: 5	The pan will come off today-sunday-more to follow Thanks for the info Mart __________________ 84 GN ta-49 37# delphi's atr headers an pipes

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