Anybody here into TV repair?

[gnetic86]

Thats true, but there's a way to tell when it's the coolant. Usually the tubes/fuzziness would be unbalanced. If you put up the convergence screen with a white pattern, you would see the white "glow" a color, like blue, which shows that blue is the gun that fuzzy.

In this case its coming and going so def something electronic.

[gn85]

Originally Posted by 1of1547

Chris, I've got a Philips 50" that I bought that has similar issues. I read some where that sometimes the fuzziness is from the old/bad coolant. If you change the blue and green color's coolant, it will go away.

How do I do that? Flush the radiator for the green and blue??

[gn85]

Toshiba 57H83

[1of1547]

Originally Posted by gn85

How do I do that? Flush the radiator for the green and blue??

Here is something that I turned up a quick search Crt coolant change on a rear projection tv - FixYa . But as Jeff said I think you have bigger problems. Mine has known SSB board problems, that's why I got it for $20.00. But it may be worth a try. The sound just went out on mine. So I just hooked a stereo to the line out from the TV and boom we had sound again. But it does need a coolant change because everything has a ghost shadow around it.

[gn85]

I've been doing some google diagnostics and I've been reading up on a component that's been troublesome to Toshibas. It's called a scan converter module or a hyper-module.

There are some caps on this module that go bad. It can be repaired with fancy soldering or finding a module.

I don't like to be like the guy who takes his car to the shop and tells the mechanic how to fix it. Just saying what I found.

Thanks.

[gnetic86]

Originally Posted by 1of1547

everything has a ghost shadow around it.

Clean the lenses and the mirror and it'll prob look like a million bucks! While you're at it resolder or replace the big chunky STK audio amp chip and you'll prob get sound back. My TV uses audio amp chips for convergence and the the heat sink it uses rivals a GN intercooler!

Its good to hear people actually researching issues and realizing its not the end of the world sometimes. A lot of the electronics work I used to do, was simply using notes from other repairs. If one model of one thing has a problem, they ALL DO. Just like cars and anything else.

BTW - Caps are 99% of all electronics problems. They're the most suspectible to age because of their physical nature, and engineers purposely put them next to heat sinks to cause them to fail. If there's only a few, get me the values, I may have what you need. (values would be like 10uf (microfarad), 160v (volts)). Need both readings for each cap.