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Old 04-05-2008, 11:36 PM   #31 (permalink)
FLR
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Mine feel great in my car. If I hit the brakes hard enough, the car will go sideways with the S-10 cylinders in the back. Havent had one problem with the vac brakes on my car, and I believe they are the Master Power kit.

If I ever do have any problems, Im going HydroBoost. 1,400-2,000psi of brake pressure and it runs off the PS. Even if the engine shuts off, the accumulator holds enough pressure for THREE full stops. We'll see if I ever have to go that route though...
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New setup: Limit TE-62, Dutt neck IC, ProTorque 32-3400 9.5" billet stall, PLX SM-AFR W/B, TT 5.6 chip...

11.480@114.99 w/1.58 60'* @ Cecil County
11.585@114.60 w/1.63 60' @ E-Town

'94 Silvy K1500 Mudder Equipped Daily Driver, Neighbors hate IMCO at 1 in the morning...
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Old 04-06-2008, 02:57 AM   #32 (permalink)
GrndNatnl
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Scott, you need anti-lock brakes.
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Matt Alexander
1987 Grand National
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Central Florida Grand National & T-Type Club

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Old 04-06-2008, 09:25 AM   #33 (permalink)
Scott GN231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madboost View Post
B:

Manual might be an option... As long as you don't mind pushing pretty hard they work great, have great pedal feel, and are pretty cheap to go to. If it stalls there is no difference! Good for pushing the car around without a motor or trans.
I could seriously see doing this too, I wonder if different manual brake kits require different pedal effort? Seems like there'd be the opportunity to build in more or less leverage depending on the pedal is linked to the master cylinder.

Folks, is there a 'best' manual brake option? What are the trade-offs (if any) from different manufacturers.

The guy in this post provides part numbers for his Wildwood conversion.

Last edited by Scott GN231; 04-06-2008 at 10:27 AM.
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Old 04-06-2008, 10:46 AM   #34 (permalink)
Madboost
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Side note, any time you take stuff off it cleans up the engine compartment too! No power master, no brake booster, very simple and not many parts.
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Old 04-06-2008, 11:09 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Yeah, with manual, all thats there is the master cylinder. More room on the driver side of the engine bay is always nice. Would make that #5 plug change a breeze.
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1987 Grand National
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Central Florida Grand National & T-Type Club

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Old 04-06-2008, 11:25 AM   #36 (permalink)
FLR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrndNatnl View Post
Scott, you need anti-lock brakes.
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Scott Jackson aka "ScoJack"
MAGNA member & Meth supplier

New setup: Limit TE-62, Dutt neck IC, ProTorque 32-3400 9.5" billet stall, PLX SM-AFR W/B, TT 5.6 chip...

11.480@114.99 w/1.58 60'* @ Cecil County
11.585@114.60 w/1.63 60' @ E-Town

'94 Silvy K1500 Mudder Equipped Daily Driver, Neighbors hate IMCO at 1 in the morning...
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Old 04-06-2008, 11:52 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott GN231 View Post
I could seriously see doing this too, I wonder if different manual brake kits require different pedal effort? Seems like there'd be the opportunity to build in more or less leverage depending on the pedal is linked to the master cylinder.

Folks, is there a 'best' manual brake option? What are the trade-offs (if any) from different manufacturers.

The guy in this post provides part numbers for his Wildwood conversion.
The biggest thing that impacts pedal effort on a manual setup is the piston size...I never can remember which is easier and harder though.
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Old 04-07-2008, 12:00 AM   #38 (permalink)
J Banning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott GN231 View Post
I could seriously see doing this too, I wonder if different manual brake kits require different pedal effort? Seems like there'd be the opportunity to build in more or less leverage depending on the pedal is linked to the master cylinder.

Folks, is there a 'best' manual brake option? What are the trade-offs (if any) from different manufacturers.

The guy in this post provides part numbers for his Wildwood conversion.

Thanks for the link Scott.

A quick Google search turned up this:
Manual Brake Conversion
(Hint: For more info check out the two links mid-page)


I'll get the part numbers off Mike's master cylinder one day this week and look up the info on price/availability.

-Banning.
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Someday this all might come together: New combo in the works -- Girdled 109 stroker, 76GTQ 4-bolt turbo, Bronsonian Stage IV heads, 83's and Razor's dual nozzle, Turbotweak Speed Density w/WBo2 control, Powerstroke IC, Michael's TH400 w/transbrake, 33 spline Mosers & full spool, 325/50/15 drag radials.
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:23 AM   #39 (permalink)
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You saw the results of a powermaster failure @ Columbus. I will stick with my vacuum brakes.
Attached Thumbnails
vacuum-brake-conversion-who-has-done-dscf0426.jpg  
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:38 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
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You saw the results of a powermaster failure @ Columbus. I will stick with my vacuum brakes.
Who was that??
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Matt Alexander
1987 Grand National
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Central Florida Grand National & T-Type Club

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Old 04-07-2008, 07:42 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:43 AM   #42 (permalink)
87granny
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That was a real GNX it was a topic on the other board a year ago from what i remember he was racing Bill Anderson and supposedly the PM failed
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:00 AM   #43 (permalink)
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I remember hearing a little about that, but this is the first time I've seen that picture.
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Matt Alexander
1987 Grand National
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:02 AM   #44 (permalink)
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He was racing Bill. It is Sully's fathers GNX. As I heard it he went through the traps and hit the brake pedal and it was rock hard. He hit the sand and round bales @ 150+ mph. Thank God he had all of his NHRA safety equipment. He walked away from it with only his wrists wrapped up. Imagine if it would of happened at the GS nats.
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Doug Martin, aka "D-HAM"
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:08 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Imagine if it would of happened at the GS nats.
I'd rather not.

That place is a safety joke.
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