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Old 10-31-2009, 10:34 AM   #16 (permalink)
forzfed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryan87gn View Post
Ok, will show my ignorance...TAP heads? Huh?
I think he is referring to TA Performance heads.
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Old 10-31-2009, 10:40 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by forzfed View Post
I think he is referring to TA Performance heads.
Ah...thanks.
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Old 10-31-2009, 11:00 AM   #18 (permalink)
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gotta find out the total cost involved if i went the route of TA perf. like do i need new arp head studs, can i run my stock rocker arm setup, can i run the same valve covers, can i run the same push rods etc...
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Old 11-01-2009, 02:10 PM   #19 (permalink)
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The pushrods will be a different length.
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Old 11-01-2009, 06:13 PM   #20 (permalink)
1985GN
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nick will they be different on the gn1's?? did you have to change your pushrods when you put yours on?
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Old 11-01-2009, 06:29 PM   #21 (permalink)
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champ alums take different push rods than irons (and studs as you know) , and if you have t&d rockers and intended on using them on the gn1 alums with stock shaft style rocker think again , the alum head are spaced different and wont work with stock rockers or stock T&D shaft so youll need new or send them to t&d for redo to gn1 spacing
you could forgo the gn1 pedistals cracking issues with the shaft style and and instead get the gn1 jessel style rocker setup similar to chevy and not have to worry,,

also whats the bore on your block , alums move the valves further apart so as to accomodate the larger valves and beleive they dont work on std bore and even on +20 the top of bore in block should be releived a little to unshroud the outer edges of the valve
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Old 11-01-2009, 07:40 PM   #22 (permalink)
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The current Champion head that is available is a very nice piece. Very heavy duty, flows well and I seriously doubt you would have any trouble with it under normal circumstances.
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Old 11-02-2009, 12:47 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I bought the TA heads for my car after seeing all the horror stories with the Champion heads. I don't think anyone has ever broken or cracked a TA head.
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Old 11-02-2009, 11:39 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 1985GN View Post
nick will they be different on the gn1's?? did you have to change your pushrods when you put yours on?
I had to get longer pushrods when i went to the alum heads.

i just measured them with my pushrod length tool and got them from manley.
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Old 11-02-2009, 01:57 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I had to get longer pushrods when i went to the alum heads.

i just measured them with my pushrod length tool and got them from manley.
Ditto that...

I went from 8.400 to 8.500 when switching from iron to TA aluminum.

BTW Nick... your shortblock is still in the car and plugging away.

When I switched heads on that motor, I had a hellava time finding valvesprings that worked with that cam you stuck in it.
I finally got a set of 26120 beehives on it that seem to work on those pointy lobes.
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'87 GN... RJC girdled 109, +.020 Diamond pistons, K1 rods, Cat crank, T/A heads, Champion intake,plenum and fuel rails, 1.55 TA rockers, 70mm Accufab, 214/214-.548/.548 Comp hyd roller, Comp 26120 beehives, 70GTQ, 83lb injectors, A1000 pump, MagnaFuel regulator, 15gal aluminum cell, Razors Alky kit, GN1 FMIC, LS1 MAF & translator, TurboTweak 6.0 chip, Powerlogger, LM-1 Wideband O2, 3" THDP, ATR Pitbull exhaust, TH400 w/brake, 9.5" PTC, Dynotech 3.5" alum DS, Moser C-clip axles.
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Old 11-11-2009, 04:35 PM   #26 (permalink)
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In the 9's I'm sure the Champ aluminums will get you an extra few tenths but I would noway label them reliable. Nothing on the motor is reliable in the 9"s
I did have some unported GN1 heads that I abused until they cracked after 7yrs of abuse... and it ran mid nines in the end.

Now with ported GN1's it will run low nines with less boost.

If built right you can run 9s in a street/strip car with GN1s.
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