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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2
| I have a 84 Buick T-Type all pretty much stock as far as I can tell. So here is my problem...last time I ran this car was about 8 years ago, in fact it was about the time I bought it. Anyway, I bought it after it had sat for 3 years, put a battery in it, started up and drove it home. I did the regular things to maintain it, but shortly after purchasing I burned up my turbo, seals and bearings went bad. So I put a different turbo in it, drove it for about 2 weeks, then that one started leaking oil into the engine. That is about the time I parked it. It sat for a while, maybe 3 months and I went to start it and it wouldn't start. OK, so now it is 8 years later, still the same problems. I just always figured I fouled my plugs from the oil, but they still look brand new after pulling one. I am getting spark, but it looks weak to me. I can also hear the fuel pump run, so I am assuming I am getting fuel(8 year old fuel) and the plugs smell like gas. One thing I did notice was the waste gate vacuum line was unhooked, not sure when that happened. I just want to know where I should start looking, I have pretty much no idea. Any ideas or things for me to look at, I will keep you updated so please help me out!! |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| The Dark Jedi Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Winchester, TN
Posts: 620
| Get some new fuel. The tank probaly has some major rust. Check vac lines, probaly replace the vac lines. Injectors probaly clogged. New plugs and wires I would think. Ect, ect. Those things and other simple things will need to be done just to get ready to start it. Sitting is hard on autos. I would change all fluids and just do a little spring cleaning to see what turns up. You will find alot of little things that will need to be addressed.
__________________ 1986 Grand National RJC Power Plate and Plenum, Accufab 70mm Throttle Body, RJC Engine Girdle with Crank Scraper, RJC Razor Pulleys, Diamond Racing Pistons, Comp Roller Cam, T&D Roller Rockers, Roll Master Timing Set, Motron 60 Fuel Injectors, Champion Intake, Ported Stock Heads, Cometic Head Gaskets, Turbo Tweak Chip, Russ Merritt Plug Wires, Walbro Fuel Pump with Hot Wire Kit, Mickey Thompson Drag Radials, Scan Master, 4" MAF Pipe, Terry Houston 3" Downpipe, Precision 6776 BB Turbo, Precision Stock Location Intercooler, Dual Nozzle ALKY Control Kit, RJC 3" Up Pipe, Power Logger, MAF Translator, LS1 Sensor 11.4 117mph 18psi Merritt Turbo Buick Performance Powerhouse Performance and Machine |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Central VA
Posts: 10
| Ditto... you need to usually prep a car for long term storage.... but since you didn't Id agree... new fuel and fuel filter, plugs and wires, change the oil and filter too.. go from there
__________________ 1987 Buick GN, Hooker Headers needing some paint! 1991 Camaro Z28 TPI 383, Headman Headers, ported/polished heads, worked 700R4, 3.73 Richmonds www.thirdgen.org 1997 Jeep Wrangler 2", AEM CAI, 2 1/2 Pacestters, 31x10.50 www.jeeps-offroad.com |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Norb's Creation is Here!! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Toronto
Posts: 10,534
| Injectors are stuck with crud probably. get them cleaned & flowed properly for $20 each at a shop. Gas & filter are garbage & must come out. Lots of little things you need to do. Good Luck! Let us know what you find?
__________________ 87 LTD. Purchased May 88 Doeskin leather, coach lites, moonroof & carpeted trunk. No Factory Hood Ornament! ![]() Special order by the VP of GM Canada! Not another like it! ![]() Lots of Go Fast goodies! 11.5 is as Fast as I go! Thats what the track told me! ![]() It's a Small World, but I wouldn't want to Paint It!! ![]() PS: My name is David & I have One screen name everywhere! |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| PA Cert. Machinist Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: York PA
Posts: 1,802
| Kyle, I agree with the advice above, some of my advice is the same. As far as the vacuum line on the wastegate goes they become loose with age and brittle. The vacuum line that connects to the turbo housing is one of the first one to go, because of all the heat. Glad to hear it still turns over. I would drop the gas tank to do a visual of debris and have it flushed/drained, if no signs of rust, you got lucky. If you do drop the tank, it would be the perfect time to replace that pump and if any modification are in it's future get the hot wire kit. RXG7-FPKG Pretty much every rubber hose on the fuel system will need replaced with any car that age. And every vacuum hose under the hood. All the fluids, filters... The Grand National / T-Type / Turbo Regal Buick Spring Cleaning Guide then when it's time to try starting it up go here for help check out the no start section, Vortex Turbo Buick Performance Good Luck and keep us posted, Chuck
__________________ P.Logger/SM2.2,LC-1 wideband,RJC(FMIC,plenum plate), "F" body Aluminum Radiator,dual fans, with upgraded wiring, turbosaver, billet packed tranny,security collar,walbro 340M FP,hot wire kit, accufab regulator,SS fuel lines, TTchip,Razor's Alky, 50#PTE Inj.,PTE-44,port/polished hds. 208/208 cam,3"SS HyeTech DP w/38mm tial,3" dual with 3" dump/electric cut out,9.5 Vigilante LU, UMI uppers/lowers,HR sway bar,line lock, polished Aluminum Centerline's, M/T DR's 11.71 @ 114.39 @ 25#'s MAGNA, BPG ;) Building: stk block, .02/.02 crank, King Bearings, .04 Diamond's, rjc girdle. |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2
| Alright, thanks guys I appreciate you advice. Well, here is the plan. I am going to roll the car into the shop for the winter and basically tear it all down. I want to overhaul the fuel system and make sure it is all up to par. Then I am going to basically tear down the top of the engine, leave the heads on, and replace all the gaskets, rebuild the turbo and clean everything all up. I really just want to get this beast running. I will keep you all posted. Lucky14, I didn't plan on having it put up for so long, just how it worked out. |
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