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Old 10-01-2008, 09:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
chrisgarrett46
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Backfired again

This is the 4th time in the last few fews that I have been driving along and get into the gas and the car backfires very loud. The car runs great otherwise, and the coil pack ohmed at 12.5 to 12.8. Any ideas?
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
tony moore
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chris, my car backfired alot when i first started driving it. after some loose grounds,coil module and crank sensor change it stopped. I think the module fixed the back firing. the crank sensor fixed the intermediate stalling. HTH
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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it is chilly in Chi-Town did you adjust the alky....
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yeah, it's chilly now, but it did it when it was warm too.
I have the alky set at 6, and usually see about 10.8 on the wb at wot. Could the coilpack be at fault even if it ohms at 12.5?
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Oh, and Russ Merritt spark plug wires.
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Old 10-01-2008, 10:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Battery wire hitting the exhaust manifold will cause that also.1 other thing to try would be ,my car for some reason if i am lower than 7 gallons of gas it will pop also.I am thinking it might be a tank with no baffles in it causing the fuel to slosh to the back leaving the pump to suck air.
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Old 10-02-2008, 12:19 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If the coil packs old ( like 50k ) it's going to be harder for it to fire off boost with alky and could easily backfire like that on a rich mixture.

Why not lean it out into the mid 11's and see what happens?
It's possible the AF/R is going fatter than high 10's during spool up and that's were it's backfiring or the opposite, it's super lean like old blow through cars experience and blows the bonnet in half.
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Old 10-02-2008, 01:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Double check your cam sensor adjustment.
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Old 10-02-2008, 02:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
chrisgarrett46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ Merritt View Post
Double check your cam sensor adjustment.
Will do.

Can the coilpack ohm out at 12.8 and still be at fault and what about the ignition module. I've been reading that a lot of guys swap them out and their backfiring issues are fixed.
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2008 rebuild, Comp roller cam, Cat stroker, RJC gridle, CPT66BB, PTE Stock Location IC, Champion iron, T&D roller rockers, 60# Mototron injectors w/Turbotweak chip, Monroe-ported throttlebody, RJC Power Plate, Jimmy-built trans w/Precision Vigilante converter, ATR SS dual exhaust, ATR rear sway, BMR upper and lower control arms, Edelbrock Performance shocks, Razor alky, Tinman cold air intake, MT street radials.

Oh, and Russ Merritt spark plug wires.
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Old 10-02-2008, 02:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisgarrett46 View Post
Will do.

Can the coilpack ohm out at 12.8 and still be at fault and what about the ignition module. I've been reading that a lot of guys swap them out and their backfiring issues are fixed.

Yes, when you measure the resistance on the top of the coil you're only measuring the secondary side for resistance (and not under real world conditions). There's a primary side of the coil that can be accessed from underneath. (and also not measured under running conditions under load)



Clear as mud?
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Old 10-03-2008, 08:50 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Ohming OK (say 11-13) cold does not necessarily guarantee proper coil performance at higher, operating temps. Also, I've had bad ICM's that ck-out OK (cold also) on a tester (Wells?) at AZone--so go figure!

Best to just try "known good" coilpack & ICM--preferably GM,,,

Check clearance on crank sensor (both sides)--should be approx. equal & typically be 0.022-0.025",,, and, ck the cam sensor--turn 1/8" CCW at a time (until engine won't start) & then return to last position where it did start OK...
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Old 10-03-2008, 12:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I've ohmed coilpacks before that came up 'open' or nodda ohms. Car still ran great, so that test to me is worthless.
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Old 10-06-2008, 07:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hey guys. I forgot to mention that I took out 3.2 degrees of timing. Could that have anything to do with it?
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2008 rebuild, Comp roller cam, Cat stroker, RJC gridle, CPT66BB, PTE Stock Location IC, Champion iron, T&D roller rockers, 60# Mototron injectors w/Turbotweak chip, Monroe-ported throttlebody, RJC Power Plate, Jimmy-built trans w/Precision Vigilante converter, ATR SS dual exhaust, ATR rear sway, BMR upper and lower control arms, Edelbrock Performance shocks, Razor alky, Tinman cold air intake, MT street radials.

Oh, and Russ Merritt spark plug wires.
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Old 10-06-2008, 08:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisgarrett46 View Post
Hey guys. I forgot to mention that I took out 3.2 degrees of timing. Could that have anything to do with it?
from what to what..... if the spark is not igniting all the fuel..that can happen...it can also happen if you dont have enough fuel as i found out on Friday night...don't go WOT with 1/8th of a tank of gas....
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happy now Rich

Last edited by gbsean : 10-06-2008 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 10-06-2008, 08:30 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Chris, remove the battery cable and let the chip go back to it's default settings. Try it again.
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Old 10-06-2008, 08:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
tony moore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisgarrett46 View Post
Hey guys. I forgot to mention that I took out 3.2 degrees of timing. Could that have anything to do with it?
so was it backfiring before you took the timing out? if not I would put it back in and try it.I know less than most about tuning these cars, but low timing will cause a backfire.
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