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Old 01-22-2008, 10:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
Amelio
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Bad crank sensor??????

I have been fighting an issue now for the past few weeks, the car was running great except for a bad over boosting issue. Then it started running real bad, breaking up under partial throttle and and not wanting to accelerate.I am running an LS1 maf and translator, I changed the maf with a known good one....no change

I put my stock maf on to take the translator out of the loop...the problem is still there but in a different spot before with the lS1 maf it would go from a dead stop good but start breaking up under low boost. With the stock maf it now breaks up real bad from a dead stop but seems to clear up a little with more throttle and then over boosts real bad....WTF?

I tried adjusting the crank sensor a few times and noticed it was hitting at one point, could it be bad after hitting one time??? If so what about the change when I switched out maf's???

I checked my coil pack and it is good but not sure about the ignition module.
My fuel pressure is dead on and increases correctly, I have also checked each injector and they seem to be working properly.

What are your guys thoughts???? Should I just throw a new crank sensor at it and see what happens?
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Old 01-22-2008, 12:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If the crank sensor has no visible damage I doubt that's the problem.Why is the car over boosting? How did you check the coil pack? Are you able to monitor fuel delivery while driving. It sounds like that may be where the problem is.
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Old 01-22-2008, 01:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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First, get your overboost situation under control (unrelated to the breaking up propblem).

Then you'll likely find the culprit to your breaking up problem to be the ignition module and/or coil pack.
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Old 01-22-2008, 02:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
Amelio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevemon View Post
If the crank sensor has no visible damage I doubt that's the problem.Why is the car over boosting? How did you check the coil pack? Are you able to monitor fuel delivery while driving. It sounds like that may be where the problem is.
On one of the ears of the reluctor wheel there was rubbing marks and the crank sensor itself had tiny shavings on it.

I checked the coil pack with a mete and all three coils were about 5.5ohms

I beleive the car is over boosting because I noticed the wastegate flapper is a little stiff at the closed position.

The only way I can monitor Fuel delivery is by my fuel gauge and also my MV readings. The car is set at 43psi line off 36 line on it increases properly with boost. My MV readings are in the high 700 to mid 800
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'87GN Forged pistons, ARP rod Bolts and Girdle.Stock block and rods ,full port and polish heads and intake 63mm TB 55lb injectors, stock location 1 1/2 IC, twin wlbro 340 with hotwire kit. RJC alum. pulleys, Custom burn chip,Scan Master,TE66, headers ATR downpie 3" test pipe FlowMaster2 3/4 dual exhaust with Dynomax race bullets. Artcarr 9" 3,000 stall 200 R4 fully built all upgraded parts. 3:42 auburn rear with stock axels.Convo pro wheels, Eibach springs,90/10 up front 50/50 in rear with air bags. BFG drag radials.

'69 Corvette 4-speed small block Alum. heads full port and polish, Victor Jr. intake Mighty Demon 750, Comp solid lifter, custom built 11.6:1 Ross pistons, eagle H-beam Rods, Msd ign, 250 shot of go juice, 3:73 posi 325/50/15 Mickey T drag radials. weighs in at a whopping 2600bls

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Old 01-22-2008, 02:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TurboDave View Post
First, get your overboost situation under control (unrelated to the breaking up propblem).

Then you'll likely find the culprit to your breaking up problem to be the ignition module and/or coil pack.

With the LS1 maf and translator the car does not want to go more than 10psi of boost when it does go there I am getting a real bad break up/misfire and an insane amount of KR.

When I put the stock maf on the car stumbles something awful from a dead stop, but once you get the car rolling 30-35mph you can lay into the throttle and the car pulls great until it over boosts to 20psi and then I have to lift.

Once you get the car moving from a dead stop and it seems like it is about to stall it will recover and go it takes a few seconds to hit 10psi (norml lag for my turbo converter combo) but when it hits 10psi it will shoot to 20+ in less than a second and it is very hard to diagnose any other issue???

I do not understand why I am getting two different reactions with two different maf setups??? At first I thought I had a bad maf so I changed my LS1 maf with a known good one.....No change??? With the LS1 maf the car took off from a dead stop just fine but broke up bad into very low boost.???
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'87GN Forged pistons, ARP rod Bolts and Girdle.Stock block and rods ,full port and polish heads and intake 63mm TB 55lb injectors, stock location 1 1/2 IC, twin wlbro 340 with hotwire kit. RJC alum. pulleys, Custom burn chip,Scan Master,TE66, headers ATR downpie 3" test pipe FlowMaster2 3/4 dual exhaust with Dynomax race bullets. Artcarr 9" 3,000 stall 200 R4 fully built all upgraded parts. 3:42 auburn rear with stock axels.Convo pro wheels, Eibach springs,90/10 up front 50/50 in rear with air bags. BFG drag radials.

'69 Corvette 4-speed small block Alum. heads full port and polish, Victor Jr. intake Mighty Demon 750, Comp solid lifter, custom built 11.6:1 Ross pistons, eagle H-beam Rods, Msd ign, 250 shot of go juice, 3:73 posi 325/50/15 Mickey T drag radials. weighs in at a whopping 2600bls

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Old 01-22-2008, 03:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amelio View Post
On one of the ears of the reluctor wheel there was rubbing marks and the crank sensor itself had tiny shavings on it.

I checked the coil pack with a mete and all three coils were about 5.5ohms

I beleive the car is over boosting because I noticed the wastegate flapper is a little stiff at the closed position.

The only way I can monitor Fuel delivery is by my fuel gauge and also my MV readings. The car is set at 43psi line off 36 line on it increases properly with boost. My MV readings are in the high 700 to mid 800
Measure each coil, terminal to terminal. You should see somewhere in the 11.5Kohms - 13Kohms region.
However, this really isn't going to confirm nor deny anything.

Got access to a known good ign. module?
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Old 01-22-2008, 03:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
Amelio
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Each coil is about 5.5 ohms(Gen 2 coil) the coils seem to be good but I am unsure about the module?

I do have a stock ignition module and coil pack but the ignition module is from another car and I do not know if it is good or not?

I have been reading some other posts about the Gen 2 coils, the ignition mod and coil pack are one unit arent they? I will look at it again when I get home but I do not remember seeing a seperate module like a stock one.
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'87GN Forged pistons, ARP rod Bolts and Girdle.Stock block and rods ,full port and polish heads and intake 63mm TB 55lb injectors, stock location 1 1/2 IC, twin wlbro 340 with hotwire kit. RJC alum. pulleys, Custom burn chip,Scan Master,TE66, headers ATR downpie 3" test pipe FlowMaster2 3/4 dual exhaust with Dynomax race bullets. Artcarr 9" 3,000 stall 200 R4 fully built all upgraded parts. 3:42 auburn rear with stock axels.Convo pro wheels, Eibach springs,90/10 up front 50/50 in rear with air bags. BFG drag radials.

'69 Corvette 4-speed small block Alum. heads full port and polish, Victor Jr. intake Mighty Demon 750, Comp solid lifter, custom built 11.6:1 Ross pistons, eagle H-beam Rods, Msd ign, 250 shot of go juice, 3:73 posi 325/50/15 Mickey T drag radials. weighs in at a whopping 2600bls

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Old 01-22-2008, 04:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amelio View Post
Each coil is about 5.5 ohms(Gen 2 coil) the coils seem to be good but I am unsure about the module?

.
Is that each post in reference to ground, or post to post on each coil????
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Old 01-22-2008, 04:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
Amelio
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post to post for each coil
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'87GN Forged pistons, ARP rod Bolts and Girdle.Stock block and rods ,full port and polish heads and intake 63mm TB 55lb injectors, stock location 1 1/2 IC, twin wlbro 340 with hotwire kit. RJC alum. pulleys, Custom burn chip,Scan Master,TE66, headers ATR downpie 3" test pipe FlowMaster2 3/4 dual exhaust with Dynomax race bullets. Artcarr 9" 3,000 stall 200 R4 fully built all upgraded parts. 3:42 auburn rear with stock axels.Convo pro wheels, Eibach springs,90/10 up front 50/50 in rear with air bags. BFG drag radials.

'69 Corvette 4-speed small block Alum. heads full port and polish, Victor Jr. intake Mighty Demon 750, Comp solid lifter, custom built 11.6:1 Ross pistons, eagle H-beam Rods, Msd ign, 250 shot of go juice, 3:73 posi 325/50/15 Mickey T drag radials. weighs in at a whopping 2600bls

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Old 01-23-2008, 06:37 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Type 2 coil setup also uses a module. (albeit a very thin unit)
I think your coil numbers are within acceptable range IIRC but like Dave suggested though, you need to correct the overboosting issue & then we can sort out the other problem.
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1950 Special. Families 1st new Buick. Got the Bling Grill
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Old 01-23-2008, 08:51 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amelio View Post
I tried adjusting the crank sensor a few times and noticed it was hitting at one point, could it be bad after hitting one time??? If so what about the change when I switched out maf's???
Why would you need to adjust it a few times? Your balancer have runout and knocking it out of adjustment? Once they hit and wear damage they are usually cooked. Install a new one and check for crank runout. This may or may not be your problem but need to be correct anyway. Also your overboosting may have lifted the heads and you could have the beginnings of a blown headgasket.
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Old 01-23-2008, 10:02 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Why would you need to adjust it a few times? Your balancer have runout and knocking it out of adjustment? Once they hit and wear damage they are usually cooked. Install a new one and check for crank runout. This may or may not be your problem but need to be correct anyway. Also your overboosting may have lifted the heads and you could have the beginnings of a blown headgasket.

I adjusted it once because I thought that may be the problem, I went to drive the car and the issue was still there. I took the crank sensor off again to see if it had damaged the sensor.....it looked like it did make cocntact at one point. I cleaned it and reinstalled...the problem is still there.

I also thoguth about a head gasket going but the plugs look good and so does the oil, I also check the coolant with a head gasket leak detector and there are no exhuast gasses in the coolant.

I did not pay too much attention to it but my factory tach does not work.......It stopped working a few weeks back and I did not pay attention at the time if it was the same time the car started breaking up....Could this be a sign that the ignition moduke is bad or going bad Or is it just a fluke?

I called AutoZone they have a crank sensor for $32 I think I am going to pick one up this weekend because I know the sensore did make contact wit the reluctor wheel.

I also have a stock coil pack(brand new) and a stock ignition module (do not know if it is good) just to put on and see what happens?

What is your opinion on the tach not working?
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'87GN Forged pistons, ARP rod Bolts and Girdle.Stock block and rods ,full port and polish heads and intake 63mm TB 55lb injectors, stock location 1 1/2 IC, twin wlbro 340 with hotwire kit. RJC alum. pulleys, Custom burn chip,Scan Master,TE66, headers ATR downpie 3" test pipe FlowMaster2 3/4 dual exhaust with Dynomax race bullets. Artcarr 9" 3,000 stall 200 R4 fully built all upgraded parts. 3:42 auburn rear with stock axels.Convo pro wheels, Eibach springs,90/10 up front 50/50 in rear with air bags. BFG drag radials.

'69 Corvette 4-speed small block Alum. heads full port and polish, Victor Jr. intake Mighty Demon 750, Comp solid lifter, custom built 11.6:1 Ross pistons, eagle H-beam Rods, Msd ign, 250 shot of go juice, 3:73 posi 325/50/15 Mickey T drag radials. weighs in at a whopping 2600bls

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Old 01-23-2008, 10:09 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Still not sure what you mean by overboosting. Either the boost gauge shows you are running higher than you want to, or it does not.

Believing that the wastegate flapper feels a little stiff at the closed position is not a sign that the car is overboosting.

Now in one of your posts, you say the boost shoots to 20+ suddenly. If you are running 93 octane without alky injection, then you are definitely overboosting and may well have popped a head gasket. If you are on 93, you need to follow everyone's suggestion and fix the boost control issue and pray that it is not too late.

You also say you are running a custom burned chip. Does this mean it is someone's home brew chip? Or is it a modern chip by someone like Bob Bailey or Eric Marshall? Home brew chips can be very dangerous if not used in the exact conditions for which it was burned.

When you run the translator, were the settings in the unit adjusted for the chip you used or are the settings the factory defaults?

The crank sensor should be replaced for insurance purposes as hitting them does them no good. As stated above, it should not need adjusting once set. Does it clear all three blades properly and is the damper free of wobble when the engine is running?

Finally, the type two coils are notorious for misfiring and acting up under boost.

Sounds to me as if you have a multitude of problems which need to be sorted out.
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Old 01-23-2008, 10:12 AM   #14 (permalink)
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What is your opinion on the tach not working?
See if your getting a tach signal (rpm's) on your scan tool. Factory tachs are known to go bad.
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Old 01-23-2008, 10:36 AM   #15 (permalink)
Amelio
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Still not sure what you mean by overboosting. Either the boost gauge shows you are running higher than you want to, or it does not.

Believing that the wastegate flapper feels a little stiff at the closed position is not a sign that the car is overboosting.

Now in one of your posts, you say the boost shoots to 20+ suddenly. If you are running 93 octane without alky injection, then you are definitely overboosting and may well have popped a head gasket. If you are on 93, you need to follow everyone's suggestion and fix the boost control issue and pray that it is not too late.

You also say you are running a custom burned chip. Does this mean it is someone's home brew chip? Or is it a modern chip by someone like Bob Bailey or Eric Marshall? Home brew chips can be very dangerous if not used in the exact conditions for which it was burned.

When you run the translator, were the settings in the unit adjusted for the chip you used or are the settings the factory defaults?

The crank sensor should be replaced for insurance purposes as hitting them does them no good. As stated above, it should not need adjusting once set. Does it clear all three blades properly and is the damper free of wobble when the engine is running?

Finally, the type two coils are notorious for misfiring and acting up under boost.

Sounds to me as if you have a multitude of problems which need to be sorted out.

The car is overboosting because I see 20psi and have to lift on 93 octane, I just installed an alky kit but I have not had a chance to use it because it started acting up right after the install so sparaying is out of the question.

I have an aftermarket boost controller turned al the way down and I have the rod on the waste gate set at the stock length 5 1/4" I have replaced the vacume lines and the car still shoots to 20psi????

The chip that is in the car was burned while it was on the dyno so adjustments were made as we tuned. At that time it had a homeade alky system that allowed me to run about 17psi on 93 oct and then anything over that we had 114 in the tank. That is why I am trying to get the bost to stay aroun 10-13 psi

I really dont think it is the head gasket and if it was that would be an easy fix, I would rather replace a head gasket than chase these little problems

I definitely agree with you guys on replaceing the crank sensor, I am getting rpm through my scan master so my ignition module may not be bad

The most confusing thing is how the car changed from the LS maf to the stock maf.....

To recap: The LS1 maf would go from a dead stop just fine but break up real bad at half throttle or 10psi......

The stock maf stumbled real bad from a dead stop but once it got rolling would boost to 20psi and pull great...WTF?????

Do I have a maf issue or some other issue that just moves around with the changing of the mafs
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'87GN Forged pistons, ARP rod Bolts and Girdle.Stock block and rods ,full port and polish heads and intake 63mm TB 55lb injectors, stock location 1 1/2 IC, twin wlbro 340 with hotwire kit. RJC alum. pulleys, Custom burn chip,Scan Master,TE66, headers ATR downpie 3" test pipe FlowMaster2 3/4 dual exhaust with Dynomax race bullets. Artcarr 9" 3,000 stall 200 R4 fully built all upgraded parts. 3:42 auburn rear with stock axels.Convo pro wheels, Eibach springs,90/10 up front 50/50 in rear with air bags. BFG drag radials.

'69 Corvette 4-speed small block Alum. heads full port and polish, Victor Jr. intake Mighty Demon 750, Comp solid lifter, custom built 11.6:1 Ross pistons, eagle H-beam Rods, Msd ign, 250 shot of go juice, 3:73 posi 325/50/15 Mickey T drag radials. weighs in at a whopping 2600bls

It's Never Enough!!!!!!
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