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Old 12-06-2007, 04:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
Turbo Bill
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Unhappy Axle housing warped or bent? How to check?

I believe when I had my axle tubes welded to the center section that it has warped the rear end housing. He welded it at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o clock positions and assured me that it wasn't warped but I have to check. My GN now has a terrible vibration (like a u joint bad) above 50 mph. The drivers axle seal continues to leak after a new stock style seal & bearing and then an axle saver bearing. Axle is leaking at the rubber seal and not the axle housing. Anyone have a way to test for straightness or know a shop that can do this? The rear did not have this problem before I renewed all bearings, seals and replaced posi clutches. Gear pattern looks good. Has a very very slight whine when lightly coasting. I have implanted the go pedal several times (6 psi launch) and rear hasn't ripped itself apart and pulls both tires. Ideas?
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Old 12-06-2007, 04:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
IfYaGot3Yards
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo Bill View Post

I believe when I had my axle tubes welded
to the center section that it has warped
the rear end housing.
Bill,

Until Billy Anderson or Jack Cotton post-up
all I can personally offer you at the moment
is this thread I remembered:

Worthwhile to weld axle tubes?

Have seen the same symptoms you described
following the same procedure on the tubes.

Unfortunately, this is one of those problems
where its prevention would have been much
cheaper & quicker than its cure is gonna be.

Wish you the very best---------------------------
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Old 12-06-2007, 08:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
JimP
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I had welded the tubes on my 5 speed 5.0 L Mustang. I had no issues what so ever. Have not had the chance to get around to doing it to the GN yet.

Just the other day I received LPW's Axle tube brace kit and rear end cover. Will be welding the tubes once I install these items. Do a quick search for LPW Ultimate rear end cover and tube kit. Bought mine from Jack Cotton. This will help fortify the rear end and keep the tubes from walking forward under hard launches. This may be part of your problem regarding the axle seal, but it would take some power and traction to do this.

If safe to do so, put the rear end up and safely spin the back tires see if anything is visibly warped or bent. You may have a bent axle.

As for the heat warping axle tubes on the differential, they are quite thick and it would take a lot of heat to warp them.

There are some good tips on welding axle tubes on some 4x4 sites, just do a quick search.

Did you by any chance change tires as well? What is your pinion angle?

Let us know what you find out, I hope you get this thing licked because it's no fun chasing vibrations.
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Old 12-06-2007, 09:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
Steve Wood
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Take the car to a good alignment shop...tell them what you suspect. Have them mount the heads on the rear just like they do for a thrust, or four wheel, alignment.

If a tube is cocked, it should show up in the rear angles...


Or, pull the wheels, take a long machinist's straight edge and center across the axle, drop a plumb line from each end to the floor. Do the other side. Both ends of the lines should be the same distance apart if the axle is straight.
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Old 12-06-2007, 09:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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From CNCzone.com-Machinist Community Forums - Welcome Page
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3t3d01-04-2005, 10:41 PM

After it is done, you can set it up with the two tires on milk crates or similar.
Holding the tires still, rotate the center (pumpkin) section.

Measure the toe in/out of the two tires. Rotate center section.

If the toe changes, one of the tubes is not straight. Finding out where/if
the axle tube is bent allows you to use heat to straiten the axle tube after
the welding is done.

Best to get it as straight as possible at first. It can be fixed if not perfect.
Some race cars may have camber, and toe in/out bent into the axle tubes
on purpose.

Pete

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hobbiest01-05-2005, 01:40 AM

Pipelines don't have to worry about being straight and true, rear axle housings do. I would suggest you take the cast iron route in regards to welding.

When you weld cast iron (on anything that can have no leaks), if it is too hot to hold your hand to it, then you should stop welding until it cools. I would suggest no more than an inch bead at a time. Unfortunately, everywhere you stop, you will most likely have a small leak. the only way to remedy this, is to grind the beginning and end of the beads, and start back from the edges, continuing into the new beads.

I have spent a lot of time welding cast iron (engine blocks, water pumps, etc), gas tanks, and have even done a few rear ends myself, and can tell you that unfortunately warpage is going to occur. The aformentioned method of being able to tell where the housing is out, works very well. Just remember that heat pulls the metal together (shrinks it). Good luck. If it is too warped for you to figure out how to straighten it, take it to a decent welding shop. I have found that it is the old guys who are best with this kind of thing, and the ones who work on a lot of farm equipment are especially good for some reason.
----------------------------------------------------------------

HTH------
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Old 12-07-2007, 01:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for the suggestions

That is what I was thinking. It would take a LOT of heat to warp the tubes welding where the tubes are pressed into the center.
Perhaps it may be time to look into the 8.8 Explorer rear with 3.23s and a traction lok.
I drove to Gainesville from Orlando last Saturday. My intention was to put some runs on it. I really never drove the GN any length after the rear "fix". By the time I got back (230 miles) I had a huge headache which did not go away until Tuesday mid day.
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Old 12-10-2007, 06:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo Bill View Post
That is what I was thinking. It would take a LOT of heat to warp the tubes welding where the tubes are pressed into the center.
Perhaps it may be time to look into the 8.8 Explorer rear with 3.23s and a traction lok.
I drove to Gainesville from Orlando last Saturday. My intention was to put some runs on it. I really never drove the GN any length after the rear "fix". By the time I got back (230 miles) I had a huge headache which did not go away until Tuesday mid day.
I dont think a bent or crooked tube will make the car vibrate, it will wear the axle bearing out quickly but that is about it. I would be looking more on the lines of improper pinion angle (not enough or way too much), worn out or improperly installed u-joints, a bent axle shaft or a bent/unbalanced driveshaft.
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