Tuning w/wideband and TurboTweak v.5.6

[87geeinn]

I just finished installing my Innovative Wideband standalone kit and I'm ready to do some fine tuning. All I can say is, wow, now I really see how innaccurate my oxygen sensor is when it comes to tuning. I've done some research and have decided to go with 11.5AFR as my goal. I know there could be room for improvement with other AFR ratios, but I'm willing to sacrifice a little power to keep things on the safe side. Currently I'm at ~16# boost, 43psi fuel (as recommended), and +5.5% overall WOT fueling added and lo and behold, my WOT AFR in 3rd gear was around 11.4-11.6 on my trial run with the new WB 02(having some small boost fluctuation issues which I will be resolving shortly). My 02s at this AFR were "roughly" in the 720-730 range which now I know why I was so puzzled as to why my 02s were so low and getting no knock and good power. It's a good AC Delco sensor but it must be calibrated wrong or something. Needless to say, I was happy that my tune was already in the ballpark on my trial run.

Now, is there a good methodical system or a good way to go about fine tuning with a WB 02 without track/dyno time? My goal is to get a proper AFR in all gears and once I get the fueling squared away, perhaps add a tad bit of timing if the motor likes it. It's strictly a street car and I would like it to be as quick as possible from a dig. I was thinking of subtracting a little 1st gear WOT fueling, perhaps -5.5%, to even the fuel back out to the default amount in 1st gear. Should I even bother with adjusting the fuel pressure or leave that and use the adjustments in the chip? I'm not sure when/if adjusting fuel pressure becomes necessary. Once I get my fueling down, should I start adding wee bits of timing in 1st/2nd? It has been noted that it is a good idea NOT to add any 3rd/4th timing because most applications won't handle it. Does this sound like a good approach?

The car is running tip-top and I have all the bugs worked out except I'm going to switch to a Q-Boost controller and get rid of my RJC controller. Just looking for some input on how to go about tweaking. After I get the car dialed in good, it'll be time for alky and tires!

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

I will be going down the same road that you are shortly, I have a wide band and the X-16 gage on my work bench now. Just being nosey, where did you put the bung? I'm thinking of putting mine at the bottom of my 3" down pipe right before the gutted cat. converter. and then running the wire straight up into the console area of the car so the unit is in the car, I will have to seal the point of entry good.
I have done a lot of reading before buying this set-up and it is supposed to all but eliminate the "blown head gasket blues" when the motor air fuel ratio is tuned properly.

Chuck

[87geeinn]

I put it on the downpipe at about the 1 'o clock position, pretty much adjacent to the #2 spark plug. Fabbed up a aluminum heat sink to help keep it cool. Everything, including the controller is under the hood. It almost looks like OEM equipment. I'll post up pics later tonight. NOTE: Make sure all of the leads are grounded REAL GOOD (firewall worked well) and just how the instructions dictate or it will not operate properly. Don't just find the nearest bolt and wrap the wires around it. Ask me how I know.

[DCVING 6]

Originally Posted by 84BuickGNYorkPA

I will be going down the same road that you are shortly, I have a wide band and the X-16 gage on my work bench now. Just being nosey, where did you put the bung? I'm thinking of putting mine at the bottom of my 3" down pipe right before the gutted cat. converter. and then running the wire straight up into the console area of the car so the unit is in the car, I will have to seal the point of entry good.
I have done a lot of reading before buying this set-up and it is supposed to all but eliminate the "blown head gasket blues" when the motor air fuel ratio is tuned properly.

Chuck

I ran mine in the last bend of the downpipe, and ran the harness over the trans and came through the trans tunnel where the shift linkage goes through.

[DCVING 6]

I would make fueling adjustments in the chip, not via the fuel pressure.

[NOCOOLER]

As long as the WB02 is calibrated properly - ignore the narrow band. Watch for knock and hang on.

My o2 is in at the end of the D/P right before the test pipe. I'd be wary of putting it to close to the turbo.

[wmsonta]

Originally Posted by 87geeinn

I just finished installing my Innovative Wideband standalone kit and I'm ready to do some fine tuning. All I can say is, wow, now I really see how innaccurate my oxygen sensor is when it comes to tuning. I've done some research and have decided to go with 11.5AFR as my goal. I know there could be room for improvement with other AFR ratios, but I'm willing to sacrifice a little power to keep things on the safe side. Currently I'm at ~16# boost, 43psi fuel (as recommended), and +5.5% overall WOT fueling added and lo and behold, my WOT AFR in 3rd gear was around 11.4-11.6 on my trial run with the new WB 02(having some small boost fluctuation issues which I will be resolving shortly). My 02s at this AFR were "roughly" in the 720-730 range which now I know why I was so puzzled as to why my 02s were so low and getting no knock and good power. It's a good AC Delco sensor but it must be calibrated wrong or something. Needless to say, I was happy that my tune was already in the ballpark on my trial run.

Now, is there a good methodical system or a good way to go about fine tuning with a WB 02 without track/dyno time? My goal is to get a proper AFR in all gears and once I get the fueling squared away, perhaps add a tad bit of timing if the motor likes it. It's strictly a street car and I would like it to be as quick as possible from a dig. I was thinking of subtracting a little 1st gear WOT fueling, perhaps -5.5%, to even the fuel back out to the default amount in 1st gear. Should I even bother with adjusting the fuel pressure or leave that and use the adjustments in the chip? I'm not sure when/if adjusting fuel pressure becomes necessary. Once I get my fueling down, should I start adding wee bits of timing in 1st/2nd? It has been noted that it is a good idea NOT to add any 3rd/4th timing because most applications won't handle it. Does this sound like a good approach?

The car is running tip-top and I have all the bugs worked out except I'm going to switch to a Q-Boost controller and get rid of my RJC controller. Just looking for some input on how to go about tweaking. After I get the car dialed in good, it'll be time for alky and tires!

I did about 8-10 hours research on narrow band O2 sensors when involved in a previous thread, so I will add to this discusion.

Narrow band O2's are binary. The computer does not even recognize stoich (.450). It only reads +/- stoich. You should consider NB O2's inaccurate past +/- 10% of stoich (my interpretation). My research found .800 could be 11.0/1 or 13.8/1 (not my interpretation).

[87geeinn]

I understand how the o2 sensor works by switching back and forth from lean/rich to maintain stoich. Is this why at cruise/light throttle the wideband is reading nearly stoich +/- .1 AFR constantly? Is that a literal display of the o2 sensor and ECM at work constantly tweaking the fueling to maintain as close to stoich as possible?

[earlbrown]

yes it is