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Old 08-16-2005, 08:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
Antagon
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Headers that DON'T crack

My entire exhaust system is full of cracks. I'm replacing the DP and back for sure, but what do I do about the headers and crossover?

I've read dozens of threads about headers here, and heres what i've figured out.

Stock headers crack
ATR headers crack
Postons headers crack

What the ****!? Everyone says the best solution is to get the stock headers welded up, but removing and reinstalling them every couple years looks to be a giant pain in my ass.
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Old 08-16-2005, 09:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antagon
My entire exhaust system is full of cracks. I'm replacing the DP and back for sure, but what do I do about the headers and crossover?

I've read dozens of threads about headers here, and heres what i've figured out.

Stock headers crack
ATR headers crack
Postons headers crack

What the ****!? Everyone says the best solution is to get the stock headers welded up, but removing and reinstalling them every couple years looks to be a giant pain in my ass.

It's the nature of the beast,lots of heat and backpressure.
The big problem[as I see it] is the lack of an expansion joint in the crossover pipe.
The stainless that they use for TR headers is a lower grade[409].
The ATR's are 304.
Postons [IIRC] are mild steel with ceramic coating.
Heat will make any one of the above listed materials grow.
I would reweld the stock headers[find someone who does a good job].
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Old 08-16-2005, 09:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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would it be a smart idea to get the stockers coated as well? i'm afraid they may rot from the inside out that way, but I need to keep my underhood temps as low as possible, so cal weather is brutal!
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Old 08-16-2005, 09:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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*IF* I was going to coat them,I would coat them inside and out.
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Old 08-16-2005, 10:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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When you weld the left bank manifold make sure you put in a gusset or brace between cyls 3 and 5. Sort of like a Solid half moon. Weld that baby in and that will keep it from flexing and cracking.
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Old 08-16-2005, 10:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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left bank? Sorry :-/

Would it be worth picking up a new crossover?
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Old 08-16-2005, 10:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If you want to save your original or if it's getting "tired".
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Old 08-16-2005, 10:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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My ATR's never cracked. I give the nod to them for survival rate.
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Old 08-16-2005, 10:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by CallMeMud
My ATR's never cracked. I give the nod to them for survival rate.

I agree,mine didn't either.
They do limit your choices of DP's though.
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Old 08-16-2005, 10:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Radius Kid

I agree, mine didn't either.


They do limit your choices of DP's though.
Good news: RJC's/Jason's new LC2 DP will be made to fit ATR headers, according a recent post.
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Old 08-16-2005, 10:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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ATR's site confused me anyways. I could buy the drivers side header, or both headers with the crossover and up pipe as a package....freakin retarded.
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Old 08-16-2005, 11:07 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I like welded stockers - forget the gusset, fill the area between 3 & 5 will lots of weld. I've done about 5 this way and they haven't cracked again. The idea is to give it some mass....all of the ones I've seen gusseted have cracked again.



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Old 08-17-2005, 12:02 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Bolt them to a junk head and weld very slowly. Despite what some say dont use stainless wire either, regular filler is more ductile and the rate of expansion works in your favor.

my opinion.
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Old 08-17-2005, 04:01 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Does using a power plate reduce the likelyhood of headers cracking?
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Old 08-17-2005, 06:04 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antagon
ATR's site confused me anyways. I could buy the drivers side header, or both headers with the crossover and up pipe as a package....freakin retarded.
Their internet catalog is a PITA, try calling them instead.
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