Tim Stockwell 10 sec. Recipe?!?!?!

[qwikt]

3timesT.............it is difficult to remember those details since that was about 6 years ago....I know that the first few lines of that article were typed incorrectly when they converted it to HTML and made that webpage, but I do remember the very first pass that car ever made was 13.84............looking at the recipe, the comment of "best pass like above" should have been under the 12.975 and not where it was printed. I only made one pass with the stock filter in the canister at the stock boost level and that was the 13.84. I also believe if memory serves me right that the 13.28 was at 16 lbs. of boost and the 13.01 was at about 18-19. It looks like that first days worth of records may have been typed in wrong or jumbled up a bit when they did it. I have never really looked at that portion of the build up as per that article until now..........Tim

[1320]

Tim, welcome, I m glad you chimed in, The extreme measures you mentioned do have a lot to do with the recipe, It may be best to have someone modify it to let readers know that what they see is not at all everything that was done to the car.

Very impressive results

Jon

------------------
87 GN "RED" M&A's,70 mm TB, .030 over, girdle, atr 309 g roller, 55 lb inectors, 16 pos max effort, 9" ford, leather interior, trans brake, 9.5 vig, mitsu tdo7, PTE front mount, nos.

[qwikt]

Maybe.........but I really don't consider those as being modifications. Just like you don't forget to put gas and oil in your car before you go race I like to make sure everything is right with other things to. I think that is being complete and thorough when not overlooking small things. Is making sure your lug nuts are tight a modification? I don't think so......no flames please, I am joking. I have always made sure the small things are right, and that is to my advantage because most people don't think it helps...........all joking aside, I look at these things as "blueprinting" and not modifications. When you blueprint a motor you don't do it for more horsepower, you do it to make sure everything is correct and right where it needs to be for your particular application..........Tim

[kenmosher]

Tim! Can you send the corrections to the recipe and we'll get them up there?

And as far as 1.4x 60 ft times with a stock D5 ... I've seen it too (Chuck Strader has done it). And I've done as well as a 1.51 myself (even without a lot of the details you mentioned). Joe and I have had our differences in the past about this being "impossible", but it looks as if maybe we've all come to the agreement that it is possible!

I think a lot of the point is that it's not easy, but it can be done....

------------------
==========================
Ken Mosher http://www.turbo-link
Co-moderator: GN/TType Enthusiast Organization

[qwikt]

Thank Ken, I just e-mailed you the first paragraph of that with the minor corrections. Tim

[3timesT]

Thanks for the reply Tim, that had me baffled for quite some time.

Although it might be hard for some of us to swallow, including myself at times, your performance does us proud. Keep up the good work with the new car and keep us posted.

[Chad Schwartz]

Welcome back Tim!! I've been waiting a long time for your return!! We can learn a lot from you!

------------------
Chad Schwartz (Mr. URL Sir-Links-A-Lot)
mailto:rad87gn@yahoo.comrad87gn@yahoo.com</A>
"The Need For Speed" Website
Cars, pictures, movies, screen savers, tech info, links, TurboBuick.com member stuff, and more!

'87 GN (TE-44,CAS V4,TH DP,MSD-50,62mm throttle body/ported upper,Walbro 340m,Accufab regulator,ATR 2 1/2",D5,StageRight,SMC Alchy,BstC Boost Controller,Scanmaster,T-link,DirectScan,box full of PROMS)
12.05 @ 113.11 1.66 60ft
'86 WH1 (TA-49,blue tops,stock appearing mods)
12.32 @ 110.21 1.72 60ft
'79 Hurst Olds (ZZ4 350 Chevy & 125 HP Nitrous)
12.72 @ 106.91 1.84 60ft

[Highpsi231]

Just to clarify something, I ran the 28* of timing with 30 psi of boost. I am not sure what timing Tim had built into his chip. My chip had the 28* of timing designed for lower boost applications, and it was able to handle the higher boost levels at that same timing with stock heads. After reading Tim's post, I have some "blueprinting" to do this winter. There were some tips in there that I can apply, THANKS. That is where HP and ET can be found. My manifold and heads have been port matched 4 times, so that when bolted and torqued in place, the transition is nothing less than perfect. This extra attention is what it takes to lay down the numbers.

As far as mine going 130 MPH, the 124+ was done with a non-lockup converter. It was going thru the traps at almost 5700, and my head/cam combo makes more power at 5300, so the lockup should put me back in the powerband. Also, changing to a lower stall speed should better match the combo and help. I had to shim my valve springs to get the correct pressures, and that should help at the higher rpm's also. The fuel curve in the chip is off also, and between the chip and converter, I expect 130's from it. If I put a 72 turbo, a bigger cam, 72# injectors, and a block girdle, and it would go 9's thru the exhaust. A Fel-Pro would ensure this, but that is not where I intended to go with the car. There are already stock iron heads in the 9's, so what's to prove there.

Info on my car & combo website: http://hometown.aol.com/RealStPerf/myhomepage/auto.html

------------------
Paul Ferry GSCA #5538
'87 GN 10.71@124 1.40 60ft.
Highpsi231@aol.com www.HRpartsNstuff.com

[This message has been edited by Highpsi231 (edited October 06, 2000).]

[This message has been edited by Highpsi231 (edited October 07, 2000).]

[Dan Smith]

Welcome Tim! Glad to see you posting on this. Hopefully, it won't be such a flame fest this time round. We hammered this out on turbobuick a while back.
Your'e right on sweating the little stuff. How do you index these tapered seat plugs? Do you use some brass washer or something?

Oh and .. I crank the wheel bearings down for max tightness, so the wheels don't wobble.. I use elcheapo grease, and my front tires are usually at ~30 lbs, and I have never bothered to index my plugs.. AND my front end was aligned for the street. I have all my sway bars on the car, and just drove it to Dayton Ohio and back last weekend. 100 mph on I-70 baby! Love cruising in this powerhouse.. My point is, that I don't normally bother with all those little things like you did(it does show on my time tickets), since they really don't matter for the most part when I spank the vettes on the interstate.. I do race the car, but to put 60 lbs of air in my front tires..
3 TR's? WOW!.. lots of toys to play with.

[qwikt]

Indexing the plugs is pretty easy. I wait until the local parts store has them on sale and buy them 36 at a time, put a magic marker line where the electrode is open and just keep installing them until I find them that point where I want.......it takes a little time but always works and you won't have to mess with washers. Tim

[Rick Starkey]

This is my first reply of any sorts on this board (which is an excellent one at that) I remember about 10 years ago 2 T-Types on my home track in Montana both running low 13s and one running a best of a 12:92 with a lot of power breaking! These cars had a KB chip no aircleaner and narrow slicks and thats all also at about 4500ft. elevation so anything can done if done right!!

------------------
85 GN Gone to the Big D
70 GS350
66 GS 400 4spd 2/4s
GSCA #587

[Highpsi231]

As for indexing the plugs, Summit has a neat tool, which is actually a hex piece of aluminum with the plug thread in it. What you do, is to mark the side of the old plugs where they are straight up when in the car. Then put each one into this "tool", and scribe where that straight-up line is (transferred over to the electrode side), and mark what cyl # that fits on the tool. Now the tool is marked for that set of heads only. Make sure not to switch heads from side to side if off the motor.

Once the tool is marked, install each new plug, and whichever line the electrode points to is which cyl it goes in. You can index several sets ahead of time in a few minutes. If the electrode does not really point to a line, or you have a bunch that fit one cyl, take them back for an exchange. Usually if it stops just short of lining up, it will be right on when installed & torqued. +/- 10 degrees is OK for most cars. Gap the plugs and put them back in the box, and # the box for whatever cyl it is for, and keep in sets of 6. To be safe, mark the plugs with a line as Tim described, and double check when installed. This really works 100% and saves a bunch of time, and knuckles.


------------------
Paul Ferry GSCA #5538
'87 GN 10.71@124 1.40 60ft.
Highpsi231@aol.com
www.HRpartsNstuff.com

[W T- Type]

Tim I would like to know what kind of gas you was running with that much boost? And how did you get that much boost with the stock actuator? Glad to see you back.

------------------
No signature until I can get my car running right!

[qwikt]

I ran Cam2 purple..............the combination of a fairly large turbo and efficient intercooler and small stock heads make it easier to accomplish high boost levels. I don't think it has anything to do with the actuator..........Tim

[Schlodes]

Hi Tim,
Cool to see you here discussing this..

I was just wondering how much timing you had in your race chip when you were running the 11.60-70s with the stock turbo, intercooler and motor..

I am doing sorta the same thing with my overweight Limited (trying to go 11.90s on stuck stuff - 12.28 @ 106 w/ 1.62 60' so far) and am currently running 28 degrees and 22 PSI boost..just starting to get into knock (C16)

Just wondered what timing you were using back then - those were some impressive numbers for stock stuff.. I've done all the bellm outhing and porting to my turbo etc... oh yeah - did the 50 PSI int he front tires and back off the front control arm bolts too..

------------------
1987 Limited Turbo T,
Stock: motor, turbo, intercooler, injectors,
12.28 @ 106 MPH w/a 1.62 60'
My 1987 Regal Limited Turbo T page..