Replacing power window motors

[Turbo_Tim]

It's time to replace the power windows. (Drivers side is totally dead now) Here is a copy of an article that was intended to be poster on www.gnttype.org, but never got there concerning replacing the original motors, with the faster ones.

It would be great to do this, and retain the original window switches. It's possible to buy the 78-79 motors new, which is what I am planning to do.

I'm not clear on what a 'ground buss' trace is. Anybody know for sure? SalvageV6?

(In bold face, below)


October 21, 2000

G Body Power Window upgrade addendum
(Applies to post 1982 Buick Regals etc.)

Here are a few tips that serve as an addendum to Lyle Simon’ s Technical Article titled “Revved Up Power Windows”

Note: you must read Lyle’s article first for the vital basic information then read this.

I too had power window problems on my ’85 GN so I toured a local auto-recycling yard and found the appropriate vintage car (’78 Monte Carlo). A couple things I did to reduce the skin damage: 1- take gloves with you to the wrecking yard! 2- Instead of using the cold chisel method I used a center punch and a cordless drill with a 5/16” bit. First punch out the center nails from each rivet then drill out the aluminum caps. Be careful when you drill out the last rivet as the motor/regulator assembly is heavy and combined with the weight of the glass even with gloves on you can get hurt. At the wreckers you have no options on whether the glass is up or down so be prepared use something to stop the glass from dropping on your hand. I used the discarded armrests from the door as a prop. In addition to removing the short track (inner panel cam*) loosen but do not remove all three 10mm nuts that attach the bottom track (lower sash channel) to the bottom of the window glass. The two rear ones are most important, you want pull the channel away from the glass about 5/16” of an inch, that lets you slide the regulator rollers out with minimal hassle.

If the donor car has the wiring harness and switches for the doors take them too. I did not have that option so had to modify the original switch to accommodate. Beware: the motor wiring socket and plug assemblies are not interchangeable so leave the plug and wiring harness intact, take as much of the wire harness as you can. You can always cut it shorter later.

Before you start the install make sure to clean up your new power window units particularly the rollers and bearing points. Grease the rollers and pay particular attention to the main pivot point it should be lubricated too, mine came off the donor car bone dry.

Prior to mounting get eight or ten ¼” X 20 X ½” hex head cap screws, one flat and one lock washer for each. On both motor mounts I had to grind one of the cap screws shorter to avoid interfering with the sector gear movement, you may or may not be able to put a lock washer on that one, so double check beforehand. I used four cap screws per motor you may want to use all five that’s your choice. First finger tighten the cap screws, then line everything up before you tighten the bolts.

When you start work on your car wind the windows down to the point you can access the same three lower glass track nuts (mentioned above) and then jamb something (hockey puck, or doorstop wedge, I used a rubber glove and a piece of wood) between the glass and the door frame at the beltline area, to avoid smashing a hand and protect the glass against scratches etc. Your hand will heal the glass will not. J

At this point if you have done this job by yourself you may have some grease on the window…. Before you test run the motor CLEAN THE GLASS!, otherwise you run the risk of getting grease in the stabilizer felts, then you will have to remove them to degrease them.

Here is what to do if you use the original wiring and switches on your car. Cut the motor wires with as long as you can, you can decide at home where to make your cuts and splices for the “new” motors after you have them mounted. I recommend you stagger your cuts so your splices do not rub against each other, (I put two layers of shrink sleeving on each wire), strip off insulation, make a parallel (or butt connector) twist wire splice and solder. The wire color codes on the old version motors are the same as the original light duty motors so splice color to color. The real trick to getting the system to work with your existing wiring and switches is to cut the ground buss trace on the driver’s side switch. You need to cut one of the short posts on the left side NOT the ground wire copper post cut the center copper trace on the rear of the switch. Do NOT modify the passenger side switch.

Before you put the door panels back on, check the window stabilizer felts and replace as necessary, mine were in rough shape. I recommend you check the window adjustments as per Peter Serio’s book “How to Eliminate Window Rattles and Wind Noise” before replacing the door panels.

Peter Cruickshank, proof reading by Wayne Jezsu

[salvageV6]

Geez I would just make them full manual before I went to all that trouble!


Sounds like you have to cut a trace on the switch to make them work for some reason?

No way would I do that mod.

Swap out a stock '87 motor wire for wire and grease everything up. Hot wire the damm thing if you must.

[The Radius Kid]

I just posted about this problem on the board about a month ago[forget where].What I found was that the driver's switch would not raise or lower either window and the passenger's switch would do only the passenger side window.Does this sound like yours?If so,you've got some checking to do before you consider new motors.

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Give em' hell!

[salvageV6]

Could be a typical switch or maybe a relay/wiring problem.

Usually it isn't the motor unless a lot of water is involved.

Probably couldn't help with wiring the new motors without a wiring diagram from the car they came out of, or a good description of how they work. But we are pretty good guessers around here, just use fusible wiring.

[Turbo_Tim]

Welkl I'd really like to use these motors, because they are fast. Little doubt that the drivers motor is shot. It's been dying for a year now.

The other window works ok. Last I had a problem with the passengers side N/W with the drivers side switch, it was the drivers side switch. Not exactly what the R/K has, but close.

Hehe, fusible links eh?

No I'm going to do this anyway. If I can't beat SalvageV6 in the quarter, I'm going to at least have faster windows!

[salvageV6]

Oh yeah?

I'd build a hotwire kit with welding cable and a Kenne-Bell boostapump set at full blast for that challenge.

Good luck with the rivets and the knuckles...

How many weeks have you set aside for the project?

Stick to racing much more fun and you can't get any worse at it.

[Turbo_Tim]

Now that I have sprayed for mosquitos, I am getting ready to do some work on the car. The aquamist nozzles that I am adapting to the SMC kit will be here Monday. I'm converting it to a dual stage system. I'm only going to cool it enough to reach 22 psi without knock.

The propane injection system I just ordered should be here before next weekend. I hope to add that, and let it take over at 22 psi, and supplement the SMC up to ???PSI.

And yes I have enough money to cover a head gasket replacement, if needed..

My buddy at the bone yard is getting the same 2 motors as I am. He has done replacements before. Hopefully it won't be too bad!

[This message has been edited by Turbo_Tim (edited July 26, 2002).]

[salvageV6]

Hey you're crazier than me with all the add-ons.

Well you have a motor tuning guru, winders that is, that would be cheatin'.

Good luck with the swap.

Hope to see that car at Atco or Englishtown someday.