30W for break in?.....

[disco stu]

Or 10w30? Both with EOS.

Which and why?

I am guessing alot of guys use 30w because it is mostly base stock with little amounts of additives? I don't know.

[ronbuick]

Personally I would use a straight wt. like 30 or 40, or a 10-40, I would use NOTHING with a star burst symbol on the jug of oil, that is my story and I'm stickin to it.

Ron

[disco stu]

Originally Posted by ronbuick

I would use NOTHING with a star burst symbol on the jug of oil, that is my story and I'm stickin to it.

Ron

You mean the ANSI rating?

Huh?

[Nasty Wendy]

Don't use Synthetic in whatever weight you choose. Use dino oil on break in.

[ronbuick]

No, the API rating, American Petroleum Institute, if you look at the jugs of oil, whether qts. or gallons, there will be a starburst type symbol on all 5-20, 5-30 and 10-30 oils, DO NOT use this oil for break in. If not sure what I'm talking of, then look at any 10-40, 15-40, 20-50, you will not see the symbol!!

Ron

[Just a Six??]

Straight 30 seems to be the oil of choice with a can of GM EOS added to the mix!

[disco stu]

Originally Posted by ronbuick

No, the API rating, American Petroleum Institute, if you look at the jugs of oil, whether qts. or gallons, there will be a starburst type symbol on all 5-20, 5-30 and 10-30 oils, DO NOT use this oil for break in. If not sure what I'm talking of, then look at any 10-40, 15-40, 20-50, you will not see the symbol!!
Ron

I'll check that out. Thanks.



Oh, and no synthetic on during a break in? No way! Really? ;)


I've always used 10w30. And have heard many people say straight weight. Just wondereing the reason why.

[Steve Wood]

I suspect that is more a myth from the old days when non detergent oil was sometimes required for a good ring seat. I would use a 10-30 oil. Personally, I like one like Valvoline racing because it has a lot of zinc in it if I am using a flat tappet cam. Might be a bit of overkill with the EOS, but,...??

[jdodman]

As long as we are re-visiting the old oil debate...
My car has 69k on the odometer. 10W30 is what I use for 8 months a year. For the hot summer (racing) months, I usually switch to 10W40.

I was considering a new approach (like this weekend when I change the oil) and going with 10W30 for say 3 quarts, and straight 30W for the last 2.5 qrts. Rational behind this when the motor is running hotter, the straight 30 might provide the better pressure, and I would avoid the 40w oil which supposidly has additives...

Anyone out there have an opinion on this ??? (loaded question....)

[Steve Wood]

Most agree that 10-40 is the worst oil one can use.

You can blend oils, but, why not just by a decent oil that will keep you at 15# of pressure, or pretty close, at idle after a hard pass? Too heavy an oil causes its own problems.

[turbo nasty]

Since it is summer, use straight 30 w/EOS and break her in.
Throw in a half a qt of marvel mystery oil if you like also.

[ULYCYC]

This is something you should discuss with your machinist. A standard build with stock clearances a good 10-30 with EOS is all that's needed. Once you start getting into racing clearances a good 30W like Pennzoil is great. 40W oil is not good for break-in unless your motor and pump is clearanced for it. Most engine builders use one brand so when they inspect the filter the color, feel, smell and possible debris will be familiar. Stay away from any 10-40 oil as Steve said. I been blending different weight oils for different seasons or occasions for years

[one_quik_6]

Okay, I am feeling pretty dumb this morning, but what is EOS?

[Steve Wood]

sold by GM---EOS engine oil supplement...used for break in...lot's of moly in it, I think. Should not be run full time...just for the period of the cam break in.

Strange..I just looked it up..now GM says it can be run at any time. We were always told that it could restrict flow in the oil filter?????....here is GM's suggested break in procedure. (modified by Sallee Chevrolet)


GM’S RECOMMENDED CRATE ENGINE START-UP PROCEDURE
Print this page out and check off boxes below (in the printed copy) when each step is completed.
Step Box
1) Safety first! If the car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear. Next verify that all hoses are tight and that both the radiator and radiator over flow jar/tank are full and have been filled with the proper anti-freeze and water mix.
2) Before starting your engine for the first time, add one pint of engine oil supplement ( EOS¹) to the crankcase oil and then check the oil level. Once this has been done, prime the oil system with an oil pump primer tool. Make sure number 1 cylinder is on TDC compression stroke, and install the distributor.
3) Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start up and smoothest idle possible.
4) When the engine first starts, verify that the engine rpm is at a safe level and that the timing is set near or at 30° before top dead center (BTDC). Run the engine speed between 1,500 and 2,500 RPM’s, varying the engine speed up and down with-in this range, to prevent overheating of the exhaust valves and the exhaust system. This should be done with no-load on the engine and for the first 30 minutes of operation.
5) After the first 30 minutes of the engine running, set the ignition timing according to the timing specifications. Now would be a good time to check thoroughly for leaks.
6) Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.
7) Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPM.
8) Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 3,800 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.
9) Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 3,800 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.
10) Change the oil and filter with recommended oil (10w30SG in most cases) and filter.
11) Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPM’s (below 3,800 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.
12) Change oil and filter again.
13) Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles!
Note¹: EOS P/N 1052367 can be used any time during the life of the engine.
Technical Note: This procedure has been corrected and improved from the original GMPP procedure by Sallee Chevrolet.

Warning: Your engine will not be fully broke in until after at least 2,000 miles of driving have been put on it with normal organic oil.

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Installation Parts You May Need
10147994 - Intake Gasket
12346192 - Silicon Sealant for Intake Gasket

Both of the following gaskets are needed for the fuel pump mounting plate:
10114141 - Fuel Pump Gasket
12560223 - Fuel Pump Mounting Plate Gasket
This would also be a good time to go to a chromed fuel pump block off plate or mounting plate if you are planning on adding chrome to your engine or you can just reuse your existing mounting or block off plate. Sallee Chevrolet can supply you with a chromed block off plate that has the Chevy Bow Tie on it as well as a chromed mechanical fuel pump and chromed fuel pump mounting plate if you plan on running a mechanical fuel pump.

You can use either a 1 quart or 3/4 quart oil filter with this engine.
25160561 - 1 Quart Oil Filter (ACDelco PF1218)
25324052 - 3/4 Quart Oil Filter (ACDelco PF454)

05613957 - Spark Plug (ACDelco R45TS) [Gap @ .035” for points distributor, .045” for HEI distributor]

Flexplates and Flywheels that can be used depending on your application:
00471598 - 14 inch diameter flexplate (automatic transmissions)
00471529 - 12.75 inch diameter flexplate (automatic transmissions)
03991469 - 14 inch diameter flywheel (manual transmissions)

Harmonic dampers that can be used:
06272221 - 6.75 inch harmonic damper
06272222 - 8 inch harmonic damper

Thermostats that can be used:
10207381 - 180°F Thermostat
12514334 - 195°F Thermostat
10105135 - Thermostat Gasket

Water pumps that can be used:
12522016 - Cast iron, long-leg style, water pump for 1969 through 1976 applications.
88894341 - Cast iron, Long-leg style, water pump for 1977 through 1987 applications.
12458926 - Cast iron, short-leg style, water pump for 1967 through 1972 pickups and cars up to 1968.
12458924 - Cast iron, short-leg style, water pump for 1971 through 1981 Corvettes.

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What to do after installation and initial break-in is completed.
1) Check oil level.
2) Check engine coolant for level and proper temperature protection for your location. Also check that the coolant is cycling properly and that the thermostat is opening when the engine warms up.
3) Check for leaks and retighten fan belts.
4) If you have installed an aluminum intake manifold, you must re-torque the intake bolts. Torque to 35 ft.-lbs. or tighten snuggly with a wrench, if no torque wrench is available or practical for your application.
5) If your engine has tubular exhaust headers, retighten the header bolts after the initial engine break-in to prevent leaks.

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Periodic Maintenance
1) Change engine oil and oil filter every 3,000 miles or every 3 months whichever comes first. At the time you are changing the oil, you should also inspect the air filter and the PCV filter. Replace these if dirty.
2) Do a monthly check of fluid levels and check for fluid leaks.
3) Do a monthly check of fan belt tension and condition.

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