How hard to replace fuel return line?

toady · 09-08-2001, 08:48 PM

I'm having fits with my Accufab regulator because the return line somehow doesn't want to get into the right position. When the return line is screwed in, I can't thread the firewall-side bolt. If I thread both bolts, I can't get the return line in. Arrrgghhhh.

So I threw an old 237 on there until I can replace the line, hopefully with a braided one. But, I can't trace where that line meets the frame. How big of a project would this be?

Thanks!

------------------
Rhett Lee
Had to leave Hawaii for Oregon, but now I have a Turbo Regal!
If only I could get it to run right...

salvageV6 · 09-08-2001, 11:19 PM

Somehow you should be able to tweak the line into place without running a new one. Might even be able to bend it a little if you have to, without closing it down of course.

That being said if you want to see where it first has a fitting you have to get under the car and look up at the steering box. There is a fitting there where the 3/8" line necks down to 1/4" I believe. Your new line could be made up with fittings to work from the regulator to that point.

Good luck, I'd tweak it first.

toady · 09-09-2001, 02:30 AM

Good luck, I'd tweak it first.

LOL, I was afraid you'd say that. Since I couldn't even see where the line went, I knew I was in trouble.

Something must have gotten weirded up when I did the headgaskets last year. It never gave me trouble the first few times I worked on the fuel rail.

I'm a bit worried about bending it too much. One false move and - HEY! - I'm in for a new line anyway. Another in a long line of Turbo projects.

Thanks, Salvage...I take it back - if my wife had sisters, I'd put in a good word. But you'd have to come here. I don't trust you east coast guys.

[This message has been edited by toady (edited September 09, 2001).]

CDNGN · 09-09-2001, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by toady:
I'm having fits with my Accufab regulator because the return line somehow doesn't want to get into the right position.

Thanks!

Patience!!!
I had to replace my return line some months ago and ran into the identical problem, also with an Accufab regulator. As you were told above, don't be afraid to "jiggle" or *slightly* bend the line around a bit. It helped me to loosen the hard vacuum lines and disconnect the closest sensors to minimize the twisted wiring maze. Also, if you have a FP gauge on the end of the rail, get that off too. It WILL, eventually go back together!

Don't start with that SS braided hose unless it's a necessity. I think it's a nightmare, and the anodized fittings are expensive.

------------------
MJ

[This message has been edited by CDNGN (edited September 09, 2001).]

salvageV6 · 09-09-2001, 11:21 AM

Actually it's easy to see the mounting point of the fitting with the car jacked up and looking up at the steering box. Not so easy to work on it but could be done in the driveway.

Getting the pre-bent original pipe out of there might not be easy.

I'm sure you will get the line to line up in the Accufab.

Remember only do this in the daylight and make sure the fitting starts BY HAND.

I stripped out the bottom of my Kenne-Bell regulator being stupid. It couldn't be.... ummm... salvaged....

Steve Wood · 09-09-2001, 06:25 PM

Start the return line by hand but don't tighten it all the way. Then start the two bolts on the rail and finish tightening the return line afer those are snugged down.

Just did one the other day....

toady · 09-10-2001, 08:11 PM

Thanks all for the advice. I was feeling a bit pressed for time and not attacking this as calmly as I should have.

The thing that gets me is that this is NOT my first time trying to get the Accufab on there! It's actually been on the car for about 18 months. How can you remove a part just fine and then have it NOT fit 1/2 hour later when you go to put it back? Must be why I'm not a prof. mechanic...

I'm going to try the "tweak" approach first, and then weigh my options if that doesn't work. On the plus side, with the cleaned stock injectors, the car feels good again!

09-08-2001, 08:48 PM	#1 (permalink)
toady Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 241	How hard to replace fuel return line? I'm having fits with my Accufab regulator because the return line somehow doesn't want to get into the right position. When the return line is screwed in, I can't thread the firewall-side bolt. If I thread both bolts, I can't get the return line in. Arrrgghhhh. So I threw an old 237 on there until I can replace the line, hopefully with a braided one. But, I can't trace where that line meets the frame. How big of a project would this be? Thanks! ------------------ Rhett Lee Had to leave Hawaii for Oregon, but now I have a Turbo Regal! If only I could get it to run right... __________________ Rhett Lee Had to leave Hawaii for Oregon, but at least now I have... "Toady" -- white/blue '86 T-Type, 179k+ Just an old V-6 Buick with two child seats

09-08-2001, 11:19 PM	#2 (permalink)
salvageV6 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Connecticut, USA Posts: 6,404	Somehow you should be able to tweak the line into place without running a new one. Might even be able to bend it a little if you have to, without closing it down of course. That being said if you want to see where it first has a fitting you have to get under the car and look up at the steering box. There is a fitting there where the 3/8" line necks down to 1/4" I believe. Your new line could be made up with fittings to work from the regulator to that point. Good luck, I'd tweak it first. __________________ WE4, 155K, Daily Driver, DBLBBGT70, 55lb.Inj., Pedophile DP, hollow cat.,Schertz Hi-Pro and 3200Protorque, Postons Headers, 2 1/2"SS Ultraflows and pipes, Ex.Ext. alky chip, EGT/Bilsteins, Boxed Cont. arms/Airbags/snubber,Blizzak snows, Nittos 275/60DR, 307, adj.reg./ SMC alky dual, 9 gauges,scamaster and D.Scan,BSTC, translator and 31/2"MAF, V4 inter. DYNO. TESTED!!! 11.93 @ 113.7 GN loaded, car #2. 115K miles. Accufab reg.,Scanmaster, Reds 100 chip, Mease downpipe, Mease 15row stretch IC, hollow cat., ATR ss. 3"crossflow, SMC alky., J.J. 62mm.T.B., RJC power plate, Bilsteins, Moog springs, HR Parts mount and rear arms, Nittos. "Some Cars Like Lots Of Fuel Pressure and Some Cars Are On Blocks." 12.4 @ 111

09-09-2001, 02:30 AM	#3 (permalink)
toady Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 241	Good luck, I'd tweak it first. LOL, I was afraid you'd say that. Since I couldn't even see where the line went, I knew I was in trouble. Something must have gotten weirded up when I did the headgaskets last year. It never gave me trouble the first few times I worked on the fuel rail. I'm a bit worried about bending it too much. One false move and - HEY! - I'm in for a new line anyway. Another in a long line of Turbo projects. Thanks, Salvage...I take it back - if my wife had sisters, I'd put in a good word. But you'd have to come here. I don't trust you east coast guys. [This message has been edited by toady (edited September 09, 2001).] __________________ Rhett Lee Had to leave Hawaii for Oregon, but at least now I have... "Toady" -- white/blue '86 T-Type, 179k+ Just an old V-6 Buick with two child seats

09-09-2001, 11:21 AM	#5 (permalink)
salvageV6 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Connecticut, USA Posts: 6,404	Actually it's easy to see the mounting point of the fitting with the car jacked up and looking up at the steering box. Not so easy to work on it but could be done in the driveway. Getting the pre-bent original pipe out of there might not be easy. I'm sure you will get the line to line up in the Accufab. Remember only do this in the daylight and make sure the fitting starts BY HAND. I stripped out the bottom of my Kenne-Bell regulator being stupid. It couldn't be.... ummm... salvaged.... __________________ WE4, 155K, Daily Driver, DBLBBGT70, 55lb.Inj., Pedophile DP, hollow cat.,Schertz Hi-Pro and 3200Protorque, Postons Headers, 2 1/2"SS Ultraflows and pipes, Ex.Ext. alky chip, EGT/Bilsteins, Boxed Cont. arms/Airbags/snubber,Blizzak snows, Nittos 275/60DR, 307, adj.reg./ SMC alky dual, 9 gauges,scamaster and D.Scan,BSTC, translator and 31/2"MAF, V4 inter. DYNO. TESTED!!! 11.93 @ 113.7 GN loaded, car #2. 115K miles. Accufab reg.,Scanmaster, Reds 100 chip, Mease downpipe, Mease 15row stretch IC, hollow cat., ATR ss. 3"crossflow, SMC alky., J.J. 62mm.T.B., RJC power plate, Bilsteins, Moog springs, HR Parts mount and rear arms, Nittos. "Some Cars Like Lots Of Fuel Pressure and Some Cars Are On Blocks." 12.4 @ 111

09-09-2001, 06:25 PM	#6 (permalink)
Steve Wood An American American Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: East of Eden, Texas Posts: 36,866	Start the return line by hand but don't tighten it all the way. Then start the two bolts on the rail and finish tightening the return line afer those are snugged down. Just did one the other day.... __________________ ------------------ 'A government that is big enough to give you everything you want, is also big enough to take away everything you have.' - Thomas Jefferson I think one should worry more when people are lining up to get out of a country rather than into it. If they're sneaking in, we must be doing something right. The Chronicles of Zap, from the early 21st century www.vortexbuicks-etc.com

09-10-2001, 08:11 PM	#7 (permalink)
toady Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 241	Thanks all for the advice. I was feeling a bit pressed for time and not attacking this as calmly as I should have. The thing that gets me is that this is NOT my first time trying to get the Accufab on there! It's actually been on the car for about 18 months. How can you remove a part just fine and then have it NOT fit 1/2 hour later when you go to put it back? Must be why I'm not a prof. mechanic... I'm going to try the "tweak" approach first, and then weigh my options if that doesn't work. On the plus side, with the cleaned stock injectors, the car feels good again! __________________ Rhett Lee Had to leave Hawaii for Oregon, but at least now I have... "Toady" -- white/blue '86 T-Type, 179k+ Just an old V-6 Buick with two child seats

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