Please Help an Idiot! Bottom End Engine Prob.

[GN_Jack]

Here's my story.

purchased '87 GN with 119K miles a month ago.

Engine was not in the best of shape (needed rebuild)

Found a guy locally selling a nice engine with lots of upgrades, he claimed the car was totaled and the insurance co let him part it out. So the engine was out of the car when I saw it. The engine looked mint from the exterior, powder coated valve covers, ceramic coated headers, 3 inch down pipe etc.

I bought the engine without hearing it run. Last week over 3 days I pulled my old engine out and swapped the "new" one in.

Everything went as planned (sort of) it was my first engine pull so I learned a few things.

Never the less, I primed the oil and fuel, went to start it and the engine Knocks so bad it's like some one is hitting it with a sledge hammer, and no I'm not exagerating. I put my hand on the intake plenum and could feel each and every knock, you could hear the knock a mile a way.


I know I have to drop the oil pan, is there any way to do this without yanking the engine out of the car? I was thinking of droping the frame support while holding the engine up with my hoist. Is there any way to make this easy on myself?

As for the problem, some have suggested, bearings, bent rod, etc.

Thanks for the help in advanced.

As long as the motor doesnt have a girdle you can drop the pan with the motor in the car. Done it more times than i can count If you have steel main caps you will have to loosen the motor mounts and lift the motor until the pan clears the main cap studs.

You might have to turn the balancer so that the crank clears the pan. But many times you dont have to do this.
Although i have never heard a motor knock as you describe,there are other things that you could could check.

1.Acc belt tensioner. Make sure the pulley is not making contact at full extension.
2. Flywheel converter bolts. Did you kmake sure that these were tightened properly?
3. Motor mounts any good? Heard really bad ones clank loud.
4. Make sure the down pipe is not banging the control arm or under the AC box.

Good Luck

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http://www.gnttype.org/carofthemonth...omdetails.html

Louie Lopez

1987 GN
GN 1 heads & intake,1.65 T&D's, 210/210 , JC TE-45,TH DP, V2 IC, PMAC, PI 9.5 LU,Stage Right, 72# MSD,Dual intank pumps,Max Effort, Hooker Exhaust

436 hp 549 ft tq
@ 19-20 psi,100 octane,20deg new time 11.28 118 mph

95 Ford Lightning
One rusty car trailer

[This message has been edited by Screwie Louie (edited September 08, 2001).]

[GN_Jack]

Trust me, this knock is definitely coming from the engine, this is definitely the worst knocking noise I have ever heard in my life. It's seriously like someone taking a hammer to it.

Belt tension is good

Never unbolted the converter, engine came with trans mounted to it

Motor mounts are brand new

Down pipe is good (first thing I checked)

[fast86]

I wouldnt waste my time pulling the pan!I would just pull the motor & take it back & get my $$!!

[GN_Jack]

Well I took my engine out on saturday, not that difficult took 4hrs.

Anyhow, I dropped the oil pan. and the first thing I see is a spun rod bearing, the connecting rod cap was not sitting on the crank properly, there was at least an 1/8th inch gap between the rod and the crank. Well this caused the severe knocking.

I also foud antifreeze in the oil, so that would indicate a blown headgasket.

I checked the crank and it's pretty rough on the 1,3,6 cylinders.

My question is, how much would a shop charge to repair all this? Would it be worth it, or should I just do it myself since the engines already out?

Another question. I've already dropped all the rod caps, and the main bearing caps, do I need to pull the front cover off to drop the crank? if so what's involved in pulling the front cover off?

Thanks!,
Jack

[Bill Chapman]

Hey GN Jack,
Yes you should remove the timing cover it's pretty easy some of the bolts also run through the water pump also.If you are facing the engine there is one that is kind of hidden on the lefthand or(passenger side)if you think you have all the bolts out and it won't come loose check for that before prying on it.I've alway's removed the cam sensor first also.Are you going to have your rods and line bore checked?It will cost more but piece of mind is always a little spendy.
Good luck Buddy.

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87 GN 3"ATR DP 2.5 ATR duals,7th injector,rebuilt turbo(stock)rebuilt injectors(stock).30 JE Pistons,accufab regulator,ATR super pump Hot wired,stainless driver side exhaust manifold.SOME ASSEMBLY STILL REQUIRED