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Old 11-05-2004, 05:37 AM   #1 (permalink)
turbo nasty
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Aftermarket headers or repair the stockers? Wife recommends the 86 to be a drag car.

My 86 is coming along and the headers needed welded/repaired and I am debating to get some aftermarket headers/crossover and since the wife actually said, "I think we should just make the 86 a dragcar." Yeaaaahhhh what a lucky man I am!



So, with that bit of encouragement from the boss...uh uh... I mean the wife .

Which set of aftermarket headers is the best fit and will not crack again?
Postons and ATR seem the crack the same as the stockers from the searches and reading I have done.

What about Mease, Kenne Belle or any others (think Hooker is the only other anyway) ?

Better yet who repairs the stockers the RIGHT way ?
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Old 11-05-2004, 07:15 AM   #2 (permalink)
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how fast is this "race" car goin to be ????
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Old 11-05-2004, 11:03 AM   #3 (permalink)
turbo nasty
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Yeah the ET goal would help huh.

Goal ET's would be mid to low elevens for starters, then eventually the the high 10's.

Come on guys I know somefolks have aftermarket headers...gimme some pros and cons.

Thanx
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87 GN (3480lbs w/me & 1/2 tank) GT3255E, ESP FMIC, Razors Alky, Turbosaver, TA Headers, THDP w/test, ATR crossflow, Gen2, Ext G, LT1 MAF 38's, Extrem Auto Stg2 trans, Pats 10" 2.6k l/u, QA1 front and rear, UMI Ups (adj) and lows, HR bar, moser axles, Eaton, MT DR's.

2003 G35 Coupe Blk on BLk, JDM Clears, 18's, Prem PKG, Lthr, Bose....wifes car

2005 Harleys : Wide Glide & Duece ...Mucho Bling
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Old 11-05-2004, 12:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Cool

Just had my cracked drivers side Postons welded along with the cracked stocker it replaced.

Stock ports are bigger than Postons with the weld slag they give you free. I finally ported the drivers side out, took about 2 hours with a dremel tool and metal burr bit.

Something you shouldn't have to do to get stock openings back, makes me want to take the pass. side off to fix those openings.

Had it done at Cottons and everyone said to put the welded stocker back on the car, now I know why. ;)

I also cleaned up the stockers with the dremel, basically smoothing any high spots and grinding some carbon off.

For your goals everyone says stockers are fine, maybe tweak them a bit on your own.
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Old 11-05-2004, 12:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I seen Hooker, ATR, KenneBell and Postons all crack and crack again down the road. They all suck including stockers. Best bet is stay with the stockers. Buy a spare set and weld them up. this way you can just swapout and always have a core ready. No down time.
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Old 11-05-2004, 01:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Cool guys, thanx for the responses.

Anyone else????
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87 GN (3480lbs w/me & 1/2 tank) GT3255E, ESP FMIC, Razors Alky, Turbosaver, TA Headers, THDP w/test, ATR crossflow, Gen2, Ext G, LT1 MAF 38's, Extrem Auto Stg2 trans, Pats 10" 2.6k l/u, QA1 front and rear, UMI Ups (adj) and lows, HR bar, moser axles, Eaton, MT DR's.

2003 G35 Coupe Blk on BLk, JDM Clears, 18's, Prem PKG, Lthr, Bose....wifes car

2005 Harleys : Wide Glide & Duece ...Mucho Bling
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Old 11-05-2004, 01:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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turbo nasty,

Stock headers good to at least 10.50(s). Spend your money elsewhere. If you just got to have aftermarket, I would go with ATR. Have a frined with a used set, let me know if your interested.
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Old 11-05-2004, 01:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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dammmmm ...glad to see everyone likes the stockers !!!!! Postons suck as far as I am concerned ... just put a set on for a friend who HAD to have them ... I've had ATRs stock replacement and as thier headers also cracked . gotta remember these things take a beating !!! STOCKERS rule
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Old 11-05-2004, 06:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I myself have decided to stay with the stockers,I've been chasing exhaust leaks on this car since I bought it and I think I've finally found the last one pre turbo.
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Old 11-06-2004, 07:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ULYCYC
I seen Hooker, ATR, KenneBell and Postons all crack and crack again down the road. They all suck including stockers. Best bet is stay with the stockers. Buy a spare set and weld them up. this way you can just swapout and always have a core ready. No down time.

THAT is the BEST advice I've seen in a long time seeing I have a aftermarket set that crack.
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Old 11-06-2004, 08:50 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Ok, this may be a dumb question and some may find that hard to believe coming from me but..

Why do these things crack? How and can it be remedied?

Seems the tie down strap would cure the twist and binding?
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Old 11-06-2004, 09:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by dentmasters01
Ok, this may be a dumb question and some may find that hard to believe coming from me but..

Why do these things crack? How and can it be remedied?

Seems the tie down strap would cure the twist and binding?
The main problem is the quality of materials used.
The original headers are 409 stainless which is not the greatest quality stuff. It is not very forgiving of high EGT's. Its heat resistances is better than mild steel, but not by much.
The Postons are mild steel IIRC which has no business being used in a turbo charged application.
The ATR's are also 409 stainless and you can see the description above.
If you are going to build a set that never crack, they should be atleast 304 or 321. The materials are pricier, but its the same addage; "you get what you pay for".
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Old 11-06-2004, 09:47 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by GNVAIR

The ATR's are also 409 stainless and you can see the description above.
If you are going to build a set that never crack, they should be atleast 304 or 321. The materials are pricier, but its the same addage; "you get what you pay for".
Nope.
ATR's are 304 stainless W/ mild steel flanges.
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Old 11-06-2004, 09:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
GNVAIR
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Radius Kid
Nope.
ATR's are 304 stainless W/ mild steel flanges.
That could have fooled me. Most of the ones I have seen were definitely 409. I have a car here with their replacement driver side and it most definitely is 409.
304 doesnt crack like 409 does........
well maybe if you get it up at 2500+ °
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Old 11-06-2004, 10:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by GNVAIR
That could have fooled me. Most of the ones I have seen were definitely 409. I have a car here with their replacement driver side and it most definitely is 409.
304 doesnt crack like 409 does........
well maybe if you get it up at 2500+ °
The catalogue states 304.
I have a set and love them[except for DP issues].
Any turbo header is going to be prone to cracking/leakage due to heat/pressure in the piping before the turbo[under boost].
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