I think the RX7 hates me

[Grumpy]

OR its afraid of the beating its goin to get .. Latest pitfall is the SFI balancer.... Melissa was using the motor and we added the SFI balancer and flexplate to be "legal" at the tracks.. We were getting asked to leave a little to much She has her "own" motor in the car now .. sooo now the balancer is almost right at the rack for a "new" problem If I push the motor back a 1/2" it should clear.. BUT then I don't know if the downpipe will OR put a stock type motor back in and call it a day .. OR sell it
oh the custom headers I had for the TTA didn't fit it either but I didn't think they would ..

[dlevey]

It doesn't hate you, its just testing your devotion. When I was going through my stage motor phase I wanted a divorce from mine but it would not leave !

[Orlando_87GN]

The steering issue is easy to fix. Take the k-frame out and move the steering rack mounts forward about an inch, or whatever distance you need. Don't forget to lengthen the steering arm.

As for the header issue, I think you should trade me those TA headers for a set of stocks I have. Guaranteed to fit your Mazda, problem solved!

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Orlando_87GN

The steering issue is easy to fix. Take the k-frame out and move the steering rack mounts forward about an inch, or whatever distance you need. Don't forget to lengthen the steering arm.

As for the header issue, I think you should trade me those TA headers for a set of stocks I have. Guaranteed to fit your Mazda, problem solved!

isn't just moving the rack out goin to mess with the geomitry ??? I can lengthen the shaft no problem .. ahhh those headers are custom made ones for the TTA with Buick heads otherwise they would be on Melissa's whats the burn value of this car ???

Oh Dave .. I have a stage 2 sitting here to looking for a home in something here

Mike you already did this K frame... worked great with the stock balancer

[Orlando_87GN]

isn't just moving the rack out goin to mess with the geomitry ???

No.

I didn't realize your k frame was one of the ones I did.

What is the possibility of throwing the SFI balancer in the lathe and taking 3/4" off the thickness? Hmm.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Orlando_87GN

No.

I didn't realize your k frame was one of the ones I did.

What is the possibility of throwing the SFI balancer in the lathe and taking 3/4" off the thickness? Hmm.

yup... now your famous may try moving the engine back an inch.. put the coil pack on the cowl .. havent got a new driveshaft so that doesn't come into play .. have to redo the down pipe to

[Orlando_87GN]

Another possiblity is finding the manual steering rack from a 2nd gen RX-7. I believe it's the same diameter all the way across. I see part of the rack in your picture has clearance and then the larger part looks like it's interfereing. I believe the maunal steering rack is the smaller diameter all the way across.

[Orlando_87GN]

Ask Scottie to take a picture of his rack. He bought the manual rack from a 2nd gen RX-7 and installed it in his car.

[86brick]

If the radio turns on by itself and starts playing oldies songs run!!! LOL

[Scottie-GNZ]

Originally Posted by Orlando_87GN

Ask Scottie to take a picture of his rack. He bought the manual rack from a 2nd gen RX-7 and installed it in his car.

I'll get a pic up later this evening.

Mike hit the nail on the head with the power rack having 2 thicknesses and it looks like the thinner end clears. I will mic up the manual rack too. You might also consider a remote filter since it looks like it will also have a clearance problem. I used the Precision remote filter adaptor and ran it to a stock oil cooler then into the remote the filter mounted behind the pass-side headlight.

[Grumpy]

TTA oil cooler piece will take care of the filter I was also thinking of lowering the rack down .. may help some

[dlevey]

Don't lower the rack, When I first did my k frame I was going to move the rack forward the two inches and realized clearance was still very tight, so I also dropped the rack downward, what I found was lifting off the throttle when going through the traps at 130 was instant left turn, I actually learned to start steering to the right as I was lifting to keep going strait, what I did at that point was with the motor and crank pully in position I cut the saddles holding the rack and moved it up and back as far as possible tucking it between the balancer and the ribbed section of the crank pully, clearance is tight but I have no bump steer issues any more, steering geometry is still not right though, when I put the car on a alignment machine my toe changes way too much with suspension movement but it is not noticeable when driving, for a more pro street or race look I would leave the rack on the original mounts and run a custom hood of some sort, the problem we face with this swap is the stealth vs functionality thing.

[Scottie-GNZ]

Here are some pics I just took of my manual rack with the 2JZ. The o.d. of the rack is 1.256".

[B4turbo]

I have an interesting solution for you on the oil filter. See if you can find the adapter off of a 3.0 fwd. It has a different angle and uses the same filter so you can use a remote easier.

[Grumpy]

Scottie.. how is it driving on the street with no PS ?? wife maybe taking it for spins

Dave thanks for the imput.. how about just moving it forward an inch ??

B4 the TTA has one that moves the filter way up and also uses a larger filter adapter is prob worth more than the car but I have a few of them