Shurflo question

granitestategn · 08-24-2004, 06:23 PM

I've got a Shurflo pump (1.8 GPM@60PSI) that I bought through Northern Hydraulics and have the pressure switch jumped out so it doesn't cycle. Will this kill my pump as long as I have some flow (single M10 nozzle)? Do I need to by-pass more flow than a single M10 nozzle can pass? Is anybody running the smaller Shurflo pump (1.0 GPM@60PSI) with any luck? BTW, they're on sale now if anybody needs a spare. I will probably get one of Razor's PAC's down the road. Doing a DIY for now.

Razor · 08-24-2004, 07:20 PM

You cannot run it bypassed that way ... it will draw excessive current and either hurt it self or blow some lines. You can run a pump bypassed but at much lower voltages. Thats why I sell electronic controllers to drive the pump at lets say 6-7 volts.. At 6-7 volts it will draw probably 7-8 amps on an M10. At 12 volts+ expect 15-17 amps..

Let it cycle like its suppossed to, or control voltage to it.

Parts are there for a reason, to protect the pump. having the pump generate 100+ psi momentairliy probably wont hurt anything, but the way your doing it.. big problem.

HTH

granitestategn · 08-25-2004, 03:26 PM

Razor,

Have you ever tried the 100 PSI by-pass pump head? It should keep the discharge pressure at 100 PSI and by-pass whatever flow is not required by the nozzle.

Razor · 08-25-2004, 10:12 PM

The shurflo pumps that bypass, dont have check valves so they have issue getting it primed. Plus how do you know 100 PSI is correct for you? Not 80 or 120?

The pump you have, get a larger nozzle(M15), trim its pressure using the screw and leave the switch operation "As Is". Thats about all you can get from a fixed point system on the cheaps.

Ya didnt think bout prime ;)

I like that your thinking, but careful...

salvageV6 · 08-25-2004, 11:23 PM

Try a half ohm power resistor in the power line when using the M10. ;)

About 50 watts rating, junk surplus electronic supply stuff.

A variable one or adjustable one is always a bonus.

Play around on the test bench with a battery and use water for testing, toss a 10 ampere charger on the battery to test high output alternator condtions, measure the output over time with a small measuring cup.

You can actually get the spray pattern nice.

PSI GUY · 08-25-2004, 11:46 PM

you could also try teeing off of your nozzle and running a hydralic "needle" flow valve back to the tank. almost like our fuel systems are run. i've got a ball valve before the needle valve so i can hook up a pressure gauge and set the pressure that the nozzle will see. i will definetly be putting razor's controller on my x-mas list but till then this is the set-up that is working for me.

granitestategn · 08-26-2004, 02:29 AM

I have a variety of Hago nozzles from M3's up to M15's. I have two nozzle ports welded into my up-pipe and some SS reducing bushings I drilled and tapped so I can screw the nozzle in one side (1/8 NPT) and a tubing fitting in the other side (1/4 NPT). This makes it easy to change nozzle sizes. Unscrew the tubing fitting and unscrew the nozzle/bushing and screw in a different size nozzle/bushing combo. I plan on going two stage with a small early nozzle and a bigger secondary nozzle. I played around with the pump last summer with the switch by-passed and it sprayed nice with the small nozzles. I don't remember what I had for pressure, 150 or so if I recall correctly. I didn't check amps at the time. I also have a SS Swagelok needle valve to use if I want to by-pass some flow. I'm not sure priming will be a problem if the pump is located below the reservoir. You definitely would want to make sure the pump is primed before you romp on it. After it's primed, you should be fine unless you run it empty. That would be bad.

08-24-2004, 06:23 PM	#1 (permalink)
granitestategn Occasional participant. Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: southern NH Posts: 150	Shurflo question I've got a Shurflo pump (1.8 GPM@60PSI) that I bought through Northern Hydraulics and have the pressure switch jumped out so it doesn't cycle. Will this kill my pump as long as I have some flow (single M10 nozzle)? Do I need to by-pass more flow than a single M10 nozzle can pass? Is anybody running the smaller Shurflo pump (1.0 GPM@60PSI) with any luck? BTW, they're on sale now if anybody needs a spare. I will probably get one of Razor's PAC's down the road. Doing a DIY for now. __________________ Gregg Lanternier 87 GN, original owner, 97K, stock turbo & intercooler, Walbro 340 w/ hotwire, Adj. FPR & wastegate, PP, 60 PPH inj., Turbotweak 93 chip, THDP, Hooker cat-back, K&N cone, Biondo LL, CC 980's, the usual bits & pieces 12.98 @ 104, 1.9 60' "Theory and practice are the same, in theory.....but not in practice."

08-25-2004, 03:26 PM	#3 (permalink)
granitestategn Occasional participant. Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: southern NH Posts: 150	By-pass pump head? Razor, Have you ever tried the 100 PSI by-pass pump head? It should keep the discharge pressure at 100 PSI and by-pass whatever flow is not required by the nozzle. __________________ Gregg Lanternier 87 GN, original owner, 97K, stock turbo & intercooler, Walbro 340 w/ hotwire, Adj. FPR & wastegate, PP, 60 PPH inj., Turbotweak 93 chip, THDP, Hooker cat-back, K&N cone, Biondo LL, CC 980's, the usual bits & pieces 12.98 @ 104, 1.9 60' "Theory and practice are the same, in theory.....but not in practice."

08-25-2004, 11:46 PM	#6 (permalink)
PSI GUY Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: rockford il. Posts: 61	you could also try teeing off of your nozzle and running a hydralic "needle" flow valve back to the tank. almost like our fuel systems are run. i've got a ball valve before the needle valve so i can hook up a pressure gauge and set the pressure that the nozzle will see. i will definetly be putting razor's controller on my x-mas list but till then this is the set-up that is working for me. __________________ 1989 TTA,basic mods 12:42 @111.52

08-26-2004, 02:29 AM	#7 (permalink)
granitestategn Occasional participant. Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: southern NH Posts: 150	Variety is the spice..... I have a variety of Hago nozzles from M3's up to M15's. I have two nozzle ports welded into my up-pipe and some SS reducing bushings I drilled and tapped so I can screw the nozzle in one side (1/8 NPT) and a tubing fitting in the other side (1/4 NPT). This makes it easy to change nozzle sizes. Unscrew the tubing fitting and unscrew the nozzle/bushing and screw in a different size nozzle/bushing combo. I plan on going two stage with a small early nozzle and a bigger secondary nozzle. I played around with the pump last summer with the switch by-passed and it sprayed nice with the small nozzles. I don't remember what I had for pressure, 150 or so if I recall correctly. I didn't check amps at the time. I also have a SS Swagelok needle valve to use if I want to by-pass some flow. I'm not sure priming will be a problem if the pump is located below the reservoir. You definitely would want to make sure the pump is primed before you romp on it. After it's primed, you should be fine unless you run it empty. That would be bad. __________________ Gregg Lanternier 87 GN, original owner, 97K, stock turbo & intercooler, Walbro 340 w/ hotwire, Adj. FPR & wastegate, PP, 60 PPH inj., Turbotweak 93 chip, THDP, Hooker cat-back, K&N cone, Biondo LL, CC 980's, the usual bits & pieces 12.98 @ 104, 1.9 60' "Theory and practice are the same, in theory.....but not in practice."

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08-24-2004, 07:20 PM	#2 (permalink)
Razor Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tampa, Florida Posts: 883	You cannot run it bypassed that way ... it will draw excessive current and either hurt it self or blow some lines. You can run a pump bypassed but at much lower voltages. Thats why I sell electronic controllers to drive the pump at lets say 6-7 volts.. At 6-7 volts it will draw probably 7-8 amps on an M10. At 12 volts+ expect 15-17 amps.. Let it cycle like its suppossed to, or control voltage to it. Parts are there for a reason, to protect the pump. having the pump generate 100+ psi momentairliy probably wont hurt anything, but the way your doing it.. big problem. HTH

08-25-2004, 10:12 PM	#4 (permalink)
Razor Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tampa, Florida Posts: 883	The shurflo pumps that bypass, dont have check valves so they have issue getting it primed. Plus how do you know 100 PSI is correct for you? Not 80 or 120? The pump you have, get a larger nozzle(M15), trim its pressure using the screw and leave the switch operation "As Is". Thats about all you can get from a fixed point system on the cheaps. Ya didnt think bout prime ;) I like that your thinking, but careful...

08-25-2004, 11:23 PM	#5 (permalink)
salvageV6 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Connecticut, USA Posts: 6,431	Try a half ohm power resistor in the power line when using the M10. ;) About 50 watts rating, junk surplus electronic supply stuff. A variable one or adjustable one is always a bonus. Play around on the test bench with a battery and use water for testing, toss a 10 ampere charger on the battery to test high output alternator condtions, measure the output over time with a small measuring cup. You can actually get the spray pattern nice.